[photogem]

Photo #1= 3436:
Exposure time 1/45sec
Aperture F1.4 (wide open)
ISO 200
M= Manual Mode


Photo #2: 3437:
Exposure time 1/180sec
Aperture: F2,4
ISO 1600
Mode: Creative Program*


*no idea what mode that is, never heard of it?
But it seems to me it is an SCN mode or other preselected mode.

[DMITRY1]

Take a photo in auto. Change to manual and dial in those settings including ISO and take a photo of the same subject.

I did that. Photos come out better.
Now, if I want to use the M-mode alone, I must confirm the exposure parameters by consulting with the AUTO setting every time? That sounds kind of "not right", to say the least.

Here is the photo in M-mode. The EV Bar scale was zero'ed, indicating the exposure was correct. It's wildly overexposed.

[DMITRY1]

Here's another one, in the same lighting, in M-mode. I've used this camera body and this lens for 3 years, in the same lighting scenario. Nothing like this happened before I replaced the solenoid. What got mess up?

---------- Post added 05-05-21 at 05:27 AM ----------

Photo #2: 3437:
Exposure time 1/180sec
Aperture: F2,4
ISO 1600
Mode: Creative Program*


*no idea what mode that is, never heard of it?
But it seems to me it is an SCN mode or other preselected mode.

This must the AUTO mode. That's what the dial was set to for this frame.

[reh321]

I did that. Photos come out better.
Now, if I want to use the M-mode alone, I must confirm the exposure parameters by consulting with the AUTO setting every time? That sounds kind of "not right", to say the least.

Why consider only the extremes???
'P' mode allows you to select ISO while the camera selects shutter speed and aperture.

[mtkeller]

Here are two things to check: Make sure you don’t have exposure compensation turned on in manual mode. If I crank mine up three stops in manual mode, the only indication that I even have exposure compensation on is the ± indicator next to the meter bar scale. Second, make sure that you’ve got the same metering mode set in manual as in auto. It may be that you’re spot metering in manual and hitting a dark spot. My suspicion is exposure compensation, however.

[Kb3hvp]

I take a lot of photos with studio lighting in manual mode, using soft boxes for illumination.

What is the flash setup? The manual mode is letting in an extra 1 1/2 stops of flash.

[clackers]

Here's another one, in the same lighting, in M-mode. I've used this camera body and this lens for 3 years, in the same lighting scenario. Nothing like this happened before I replaced the solenoid. What got mess up?

Are these flash photographs, Dmitry? If so you are not testing the camera's aperture by adding light.

For this kind of flash product photography, you meter the 'ambient' exposure to be totally black at f8 or f11, 1/180s, ISO 100, *then* you add in flash and vary its power until you're happy with the result, preferably manually.

---

Last edited by clackers; 05-05-2021 at 05:09 PM.

[DMITRY1]

These are not flash photos.
Is it possible that it's lens-related?
The first one is with a Pentax-brand kit zoom lens, the second with a Sigma 30mm. Both photos taken in the M-mode. Sigma is overexposing. This started after I did the complete reset, after replacing the faulty green Chinese solenoid.

[clackers]

These are not flash photos.
Is it possible that it's lens-related?

Maybe, but again, your experiments don't share the same parameters.

Can you zoom the kit lens to match the 30mm of that Sigma prime, then from a tripod take identical shots, making sure no part of you is blocking the light getting to the door and the hinge in either picture?

[photogem]

DMITRY: I don't understand, I asked you via PM which mode to use and better to take photos of landscape.

M-Mode: You can dial in any exposure time and combine it with any aperture, that way nothing can be seen.

I hardly use M-mode but Tav, Av and Tv, sometimes P.

M-Mode is absolutly useless to find out here if something is wrong.

But I don't think anything is wrong with the solenoid.

The only times I encountered overexposure was when filing/sanding was applied to the plunger of the China-Solenoid (that tiny bit too little holding force, actuating too quick) or with the 6V SLR Japan-Solenoid (used in some XZ Series SLR bodies) because it can release as well too quick and due to a minimal difference in size it sits slightly crooked on the assembly as shown here:
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/members/85274-photogem/albums/13036-gree...ture123008.jpg

[DMITRY1]

It' not the lens issue. I used 2 different lenses outdoors, in both the M, P, and AUTO modes. The camera is the problem, not the lenses. Every image is wildly overexposed.
I don't know what to do next with it. Prior to the solenoid failure, and the subsequent replacement it was functioning fine.

[mtkeller]

I asked this a while ago and never got an answer. Have you verified that exposure compensation isn’t cranked up to +2 or +3?

[reh321]

It' not the lens issue. I used 2 different lenses outdoors, in both the M, P, and AUTO modes. The camera is the problem, not the lenses. Every image is wildly overexposed.
I don't know what to do next with it. Prior to the solenoid failure, and the subsequent replacement it was functioning fine.

Is there a consistent negative value of exposure compensation that would give an appropriate exposure??

[DMITRY1]

I asked this a while ago and never got an answer. Have you verified that exposure compensation isn’t cranked up to +2 or +3?

EV Compensation is ZERO.

[Not a Number]

Since none of the usual suspects seem to be responsible why not send the camera in for service?