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03-26-2019, 06:15 PM   #1
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Pixle Shift Usage

I've had my K70 for 7 months now and absolutely love it. Coming from a K50 that suffered aperture failure (which I have since repaired and now use as a second body), I am still learning the new features of the K70. Concerning pixle shift, I understand what it does and how it works. What I'm having difficulty with is understanding when and/or why I should use it (or not use it), I have experimented with it in several different situations and seen very mixed results with no discernible patterns or consistency apparent. I will appreciate any comment, suggestion, advice, or guidance anyone wishes to offer.

03-26-2019, 06:34 PM   #2
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This review, along with the article it links to, gives a pretty good overview of the top use cases for pixel shift:
Pentax K-1 Review - Super Resolution and AA Filter | PentaxForums.com Reviews

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03-26-2019, 08:37 PM   #3
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I've used it a few times. Not exactly top of my requirements for street or even landscape photography.
03-27-2019, 02:49 AM   #4
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For me, it is something that I use when shooting macro of still objects or landscapes when on a tripod (of a fairly static scene) to add some resolution, color depth and decrease noise in an image. What I see is that pixel shifted images can have shadows bumped a lot more without showing noise and artifacts than images without pixel shift.

Many people probably find it more painful than the benefit, but using Raw Therapee it is pretty simple to edit them and I do like the results.

There is a thread dedicated to pixel shift images here: Pixel Shifted Images - PentaxForums.com

03-27-2019, 07:56 AM   #5
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Thank you. I would never thought to look at the K1 review. I think my problem has been too much motion, and I've been processing these in Lightroom, which I'm not sure supports pixel shift on the K70 that well or at all. I will try DCU first then import to Lightroom (because that's what I have at the moment). I shoot mainly outdoor, natural light, landscapes, wildlife, buildings, etc. and there is always movement to some degree. I guess I just need to get a feel of how much is too much. I do like the idea, I just need to get better at using it.
03-27-2019, 12:14 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by DWS1 Quote
I've had my K70 for 7 months now and absolutely love it. Coming from a K50 that suffered aperture failure (which I have since repaired and now use as a second body), I am still learning the new features of the K70. Concerning pixle shift, I understand what it does and how it works. What I'm having difficulty with is understanding when and/or why I should use it (or not use it), I have experimented with it in several different situations and seen very mixed results with no discernible patterns or consistency apparent. I will appreciate any comment, suggestion, advice, or guidance anyone wishes to offer.
Ps is a really useful tool, I use it a lot and find it works exactly as Rondec describes, not only producing sharper images but assists with shadow recovery/detail and lower noise, a very clean image indeed. However (and this is crucial in my experience), you'll want to turn any in camera Motion Correction OFF, and rely on using RawTherapee to assist with fixing motion artefacts in post. Typically with my landscape shots, especially waterfall ones, I take two shots, one Ps shot for details and a slow long exposure non Ps for the water, and then I blend in post. Otherwise, you end up with a very long shot for the long exposure one if using Ps and things like fern and plant life will move a lot in this time making Ps pretty pointless.

Ps is suited to non moving things, if it's windy that day I probably wouldn't bother with it unless there were lots of still things like large boulders etc.
Ps is suited to still life images. Ps is not suited to portrait use.
Remember, regardless of your camera settings (1/2000 sec etc), it will take about 1 second for the shot to complete (a burst of 4 frames), which I think for the K-1 is completed in and around 4.4fps, so just shy of a second. Not sure what the K70 can manage but that is essentially the shot time you need to factor in.

QuoteOriginally posted by Paul the Sunman Quote
I've used it a few times. Not exactly top of my requirements for street or even landscape photography.
Street photography in the purest form it wouldn't work, a lot of that stuff is handheld. If tripoding up it can still work for the buildings and what not, just the people will be a single frame and motion blurred. Can still be pretty cool.



Landscape I think it's very useful, you just have to be mindful of the conditions and be willing to spend some time in post fixing motion properly (in RawTherapee).

QuoteOriginally posted by Rondec Quote
For me, it is something that I use when shooting macro of still objects or landscapes when on a tripod (of a fairly static scene) to add some resolution, color depth and decrease noise in an image. What I see is that pixel shifted images can have shadows bumped a lot more without showing noise and artifacts than images without pixel shift.

Many people probably find it more painful than the benefit, but using Raw Therapee it is pretty simple to edit them and I do like the results.

There is a thread dedicated to pixel shift images here: Pixel Shifted Images - PentaxForums.com
Cool, missed that thread, might submit a few images as I use Ps a lot


QuoteOriginally posted by DWS1 Quote
Thank you. I would never thought to look at the K1 review. I think my problem has been too much motion, and I've been processing these in Lightroom, which I'm not sure supports pixel shift on the K70 that well or at all. I will try DCU first then import to Lightroom (because that's what I have at the moment). I shoot mainly outdoor, natural light, landscapes, wildlife, buildings, etc. and there is always movement to some degree. I guess I just need to get a feel of how much is too much. I do like the idea, I just need to get better at using it.
I think the K-1 review that Adam linked shows easily why it is useful, if people are not convinced by the difference with the slider examples I'm not sure what will :/

I view my work on a 43 inch 4k calibrated monitor, the difference between Ps images and non Ps images is night and day, so sometimes if people are not sure what's going on I think it's probably also down to what they are working with in terms of display and resolution quality. In fact, just generally speaking, before I owned a 4k monitor I only ever saw my K-1 showing results in 1080p resolution, woefully low compared to what it is capable of. Displays make a big difference.

Personally I have found Ps images to be very useful when using older glass as well, they seem to really benefit from that increase sharpness. Some of the newer glass which can be super sharp naturally then the benefit might not be as crucial, so I do find it 'lens specific'.
03-27-2019, 10:05 PM   #7
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I have been looking to do some city long exposure shots in an upcoming trip (to remove people from the scene)
Has anyone tried PS in this technique? K3 II
Thanks all!!!
Photobill
03-27-2019, 11:07 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by Photobill Quote
I have been looking to do some city long exposure shots in an upcoming trip (to remove people from the scene)
Has anyone tried PS in this technique? K3 II
Thanks all!!!
Photobill
Tried the technique (results page 2), not tried it with PixelShifting however. Looking at my K-1 now it appears you can indeed set Ps on using the same cameras settings I used to get rid of tourists, I just dunno how it will turn out however. Let us know !

With a single Ps image taken to RawTherapee, when doing the motion correction (for example my Sydney Opera House stairs), it would look at the 4 frames and identify inconsistencies, places in the frames where nothing changes (steps etc) and locates 'stuff' that is indifferent. I'm not sure exactly what it does however, whether it keeps just one frame with that moving thing and deletes that area from the rest of the frames, or keeps 2 of the frames (if they match up) etc etc.

I have no idea how multiple versions of Ps done in this fashion will work out, as my shots (page 2) were all processed in camera. You should be able to (in theory) do the same thing as I did, but not process in camera and instead take 20 pixelshifted shots, process each one in RawTherapee for motion correction (ZZZzz...), then combine the 20 Ps images in Photoshop and do a composite blend thing there (like what the camera would do). Kinda like a giant 20 frame pixelshifted shot with Photoshop removing the inconsistent things between the frames.
I have no idea if this would leave you with amazing sharpness for the static stuff or a huge mess lol.
A good experiment for sure!

03-28-2019, 03:11 AM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by DWS1 Quote
Thank you. I would never thought to look at the K1 review. I think my problem has been too much motion, and I've been processing these in Lightroom, which I'm not sure supports pixel shift on the K70 that well or at all. I will try DCU first then import to Lightroom (because that's what I have at the moment). I shoot mainly outdoor, natural light, landscapes, wildlife, buildings, etc. and there is always movement to some degree. I guess I just need to get a feel of how much is too much. I do like the idea, I just need to get better at using it.
The thread probably shouldn't be in the K-1 area. I started it, but it was more intended to be from all Pentax cameras that allowed pixel shift. At the time the only ones were the K-1 and K3 II.

QuoteOriginally posted by Photobill Quote
I have been looking to do some city long exposure shots in an upcoming trip (to remove people from the scene)
Has anyone tried PS in this technique? K3 II
Thanks all!!!
Photobill
I think the big question with pixel shift is how much shifting there is of the scene between the four images. You can certainly use it for long exposures and use the motion correction feature in Raw Therapee to combine them without artifacts. The thing is that if there is enough shifting from frame to frame, then you just end up using one frame and throwing the other three away. I would think photos that are of things like buildings would work pretty well as compared to those of nature where wind is more likely to make things move in a long exposure.
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