[kypfer]

"supplied Digital Camera Utility software?" Where?

It'll be on the CD that (should have) come with the camera
If not, it can be downloaded from the Ricoh web-site, Software Downloads : Support & Service | RICOH IMAGING but there is a bit of a trick to getting it to install without an original installation on the computer.

---------- Post added 10-26-20 at 12:43 AM ----------

...the ability to reproduce many of the in-camera processing features. To be honest, I don't believe highlight compensation is on the list.


Steve

Yes it is … see the DCU Help File "Control Panels" - #24

[stevebrot]

Yes it is … see the DCU Help File "Control Panels" - #24

OK...that provides several sliders and is a bit different than the On/Off/Auto option available on the camera, but can be used to do corrections in PP.


Steve

[SharkyCA]

New K-70. 18 - 55mm kit lens. Can't figure out what settings to use to correct the whites from going so bright?

Here is another function of your camera that I don't think is discussed here very often, I posted a link on the forums awhile back to the Pentax Explore page: Ricoh/Pentax Home Page "Explore" Pentax tools worth exploring! - PentaxForums.com

The "Custom Image" function is another interesting function: More info | Give further expression with PENTAX "Custom Image" | RICOH IMAGING

[kypfer]

Here is another function of your camera that I don't think is discussed here very often, I posted a link on the forums awhile back to the Pentax Explore page: Ricoh/Pentax Home Page "Explore" Pentax tools worth exploring! - PentaxForums.com

The "Custom Image" function is another interesting function: More info | Give further expression with PENTAX "Custom Image" | RICOH IMAGING

There's another whole bunch of stuff here Google Translate … originally in Japanese so I've provided a link via 'Google Translate'. The translation to English can be a little stilted, inevitably, and the images are still in Japanese, but there's some helpful insights to the capabilities of the Digital Camera Utility there written by someone who really appears to understand it

[voicelit]

A CD (DVD?) was in the box when your K-70 was purchased. It has the Digital Camera Utility software that provides basic image editing, RAW processing, and a few other tricks. It is not my favorite tool, but does have the ability to reproduce many of the in-camera processing features. To be honest, I don't believe highlight compensation is on the list.


Steve

No CD in the box, I'll check again.

[voicelit]

Not sure if these are the best example, best I can teel - these aren't edited yet in FastStone.

[stevebrot]

Photo examples

All three used flash. #1 and #3 have no blown highlights, other than the reflective materials on the collars, and appear typical for single on-camera flash. #2 appears to show minor ghosting between the flash and ambient exposure resulting in lack of detail in the white legs. You can see similar in the legs of the person in the near background.


Steve

[Des]

Just to add to what Steve said.

Not sure if these are the best example, best I can teel - these aren't edited yet in FastStone.

When using the popup flash or a flash mounted in the hotshoe outdoors, with nothing to bounce the flash beam from, the flash beam is going to bounce off the subject right back into the lens. Even if you don't get redeye or blown spots, that method will rarely give pleasing results, unless you are using the flash for a modest amount of fill (rather than as the main light source). That's why the lighting in the second and third images is better than in the first. I'd try to meter for the ambient light and choose settings that mean that the flash will only add about 0.7 to 1.0 EV to the subject.

Otherwise you have two options: diffuse the flash or get it off camera. Or preferably both.

The other thing is that you have used very narrow apertures (f16 and f14) for two of those images, which has led to high ISO and stronger flash output than was ideal. You would have been better using no more than say f8 - quite adequate depth of field, better resolution (diffraction reduces resolution above about f11) and less flash output.

[voicelit]

Just to add to what Steve said.


When using the popup flash or a flash mounted in the hotshoe outdoors, with nothing to bounce the flash beam from, the flash beam is going to bounce off the subject right back into the lens. Even if you don't get redeye or blown spots, that method will rarely give pleasing results, unless you are using the flash for a modest amount of fill (rather than as the main light source). That's why the lighting in the second and third images is better than in the first. I'd try to meter for the ambient light and choose settings that mean that the flash will only add about 0.7 to 1.0 EV to the subject.

Otherwise you have two options: diffuse the flash or get it off camera. Or preferably both.

The other thing is that you have used very narrow apertures (f16 and f14) for two of those images, which has led to high ISO and stronger flash output than was ideal. You would have been better using no more than say f8 - quite adequate depth of field, better resolution (diffraction reduces resolution above about f11) and less flash output.

Thanks. I didn't know that f stops above f11 lose resolution. The high ISO is mine: I'm using "Manual.... " Is 3200 considered high? The K-70 doesn't seem to offer "Flash" as a White Balance setting option? Guess it's automatic when using the flash. It seems to have less choices for flash strength than older models? I can't figure out if High / low Key Aid Adjustment gets "darker" when increasing / going to the right or the opposite, same with "Highlight adjustment." I use "Natural" setting; is there a better one for flash / highlights: Ie: flat?

[Des]

Thanks. I didn't know that f stops above f11 lose resolution.

I didn't know it either until I read it on PF years ago. The point at which diffraction sets in varies from lens to lens (and from one focal length to another in a zoom), but f11 is typical for a slow-aperture zoom. If you look at test charts you will see it clearly. For example here is a test from Ephotozine (Pentax SMC DA 18-55mm II f/3.5-5.6 ED AL (IF) Interchangeable Lens Review | ePHOTOzine) of the resolution of the DA 18-55 at 35mm. You see that it falls away after f11.

Is 3200 considered high?

Generally yes, although the K-70 is capable at this setting. In an evening like this you may need 3200 to match the ambient light, but it's not ideal.

The K-70 doesn't seem to offer "Flash" as a White Balance setting option?

My K-S2 does, and it's the model before the K-70. Check the manual.

It seems to have less choices for flash strength than older models?

If you are using the popup flash, the output can be set manually (1/1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, etc) or the PTTL exposure can be adjusted. Check the manual. If using an external flash, check the manual for the flash - with most flashes you can adjust the output on the flash.

I can't figure out if High / low Key Aid Adjustment gets "darker" when increasing / going to the right or the opposite, same with "Highlight adjustment." I use "Natural" setting; is their a better one for flash / highlights: Ie: flat?

I think you are referring to the settings for jpg images. I only shoot RAW. Someone who shoots jpg will be better able to help with this.

[stevebrot]

The K-70 doesn't seem to offer "Flash" as a White Balance setting option?

menu --> C3 --> WB when using flash

(from the manual...note that changing WB will not change brightness)

It seems to have less choices for flash strength than older models?

-2.0 --> +1.0 EV exposure comp in P-TTL auto mode, 1/1 --> 1/128 intensity in manual? I do believe those have been the norm for several years for Pentax built-in flash.

I can't figure out if High / low Key Aid Adjustment gets "darker" when increasing / going to the right or the opposite, same with "Highlight adjustment."

???? Are you talking about post processing?

I use "Natural" setting; is their a better one for flash / highlights: Ie: flat?

Natural should be fine. Those custom image settings only apply to in-camera JPEGs and do not modify exposure.

In straight language...the results from your example images are properly exposed by most standards for the subject and manual exposure settings. The flash exposure is spot on in that the whites are white with detail present. The backgrounds look the way they do because that is how the camera was set up and because the flash maximum output is only GN 12(m)*. Example #2 looks the way it does due to subject movement. A full explanation would be involved, but it may be enough to say that less powerful flashes tend to discharge at or near full duration, meaning they may not be able to stop motion.

My suggestion would be to learn the limits of the built-in flash in a controlled setting using one of the automated exposure modes with the flash in regular/flash on (auto P-TTL) mode with a stationary subject. Try out different flash exposure compensation settings at different distances. The camera will do its best to balance flash and ambient light. From there you can move to manual exposure and manual flash where you have full control and adjust flash exposure using aperture and/or flash intensity (duration actually). You will likely need a phone app and/or some arithmetic to figure guide numbers and proper aperture settings.

I skipped using manual exposure and auto P-TTL flash despite it working quite well and is a very viable option. One needs to understand the relationship ambient light, distance and flash power before being able to manually balance using flash exposure compensation alone.

Good luck! Have fun!


Steve

* Meaning 3 meters at ISO 100 and f/4.0

[voicelit]

menu --> C3 --> WB when using flash

(from the manual...note that changing WB will not change brightness)


-2.0 --> +1.0 EV exposure comp in P-TTL auto mode, 1/1 --> 1/128 intensity in manual? I do believe those have been the norm for several years for Pentax built-in flash.


???? Are you talking about post processing?


Natural should be fine. Those custom image settings only apply to in-camera JPEGs and do not modify exposure.

In straight language...the results from your example images are properly exposed by most standards for the subject and manual exposure settings. The flash exposure is spot on in that the whites are white with detail present. The backgrounds look the way they do because that is how the camera was set up and because the flash maximum output is only GN 12(m)*. Example #2 looks the way it does due to subject movement. A full explanation would be involved, but it may be enough to say that less powerful flashes tend to discharge at or near full duration, meaning they may not be able to stop motion.

My suggestion would be to learn the limits of the built-in flash in a controlled setting using one of the automated exposure modes with the flash in regular/flash on (auto P-TTL) mode with a stationary subject. Try out different flash exposure compensation settings at different distances. The camera will do its best to balance flash and ambient light. From there you can move to manual exposure and manual flash where you have full control and adjust flash exposure using aperture and/or flash intensity (duration actually). You will likely need a phone app and/or some arithmetic to figure guide numbers and proper aperture settings.

I skipped using manual exposure and auto P-TTL flash despite it working quite well and is a very viable option. One needs to understand the relationship ambient light, distance and flash power before being able to manually balance using flash exposure compensation alone.

Good luck! Have fun!


Steve

* Meaning 3 meters at ISO 100 and f/4.0

Originally posted by voicelit Quote
I can't figure out if High / low Key Aid Adjustment gets "darker" when increasing / going to the right or the opposite, same with "Highlight adjustment."
???? Are you talking about post processing?
No , not post processing. In camera setting. Question might be too dumb / simple to get your head around. High / low Key Aid Adjustment: which way to darken whites" Same question for "Highlight adjustment."

[stevebrot]

No , not post processing. In camera setting. Question might be too dumb / simple to get your head around. High / low Key Aid Adjustment: which way to darken whites" Same question for "Highlight adjustment."

No, your question was not too dumb/simple. It took a few minutes, but I finally figured out that you are referring to the rarely-used parameter adjust options for the custom image and digital filter features. Those are similar to the tasks that one might do on the computer in post-processing, but apply to in-camera JPEGs. This is not a feature that I personally use and the manual documentation is poor. I was, however, able to find the help for corresponding features of the Digital Camera Utility software that ships with the K-70. This is what I can share, copied from the help files...

• High/Low Key Adjustment Adjusts the balance between bright and dark areas in an image. Slide right to make the image brighter and left to make it darker. (Comment: This appears to change the balance between light and dark tones.)*
• Contrast Highlight Adjustment Adjusts the brightness of a highlighted area. Slide right to make the highlighted area brighter and left to make it darker. (Comment: What qualifies as "highlight" is pretty broad.)

If you are adjusting a custom image, you can use the Fx1 button to do a preview exposure that will show you live what changes are being made. Remember that these adjustments only apply to the specific custom image or digital filter and are limited to JPEG only and are not the same as changing exposure. A blown highlight remains a blown highlight, even if adjusted down, just more grayish. I hope this is helpful.


FWIW...I cannot recommend going this route, because the adjustments are pretty coarse and the impact on a particular subject unpredictable. Good luck.


Steve

* I was able to exercise the features on my K-3.

[mithrandir]

I usually have my K5IIs set for bracketing with matrix exposure. This allows me to be covered for blown highlights. Digital sensors are like slide film in that it is too easy to blow the highlights. I find my camera wants to overexpose, so I keep it set for -1ev which works well with bracketing.

[RobSpain]

New K-70. 18 - 55mm kit lens. Can't figure out what settings to use to correct the whites from going so bright?

Without repeating the various comments already posted regarding camera settings, it's something that I've never really noticed too much as I've normally been able to solve it in PP.