Originally posted by stevebrot Perhaps.
It struck me yesterday evening that I broke one of my own rules for dealing with troubleshooting poor/unexpected exposure issues. That being that the first thing to determine is whether the exposure matches the camera settings. For example, say the meter indicates 1/125s and f/5.6 (fixed ISO) in M mode when the subject is a patch of grass and nothing else. Do those settings result in an image of that grass having reasonable brightness?
In your case, the question is whether the result is consistently the same brightness for the same 1/125s, f/5.6 setting. If not, there is mechanical problem.
Steve
The basic answer to your comment is yes, they are consistent, ONCE I've got over the first UNDER exposed shot using OVF (or OVER exposed in LV) when switching the camera on (after at least an hour in off).
Furthermore, yesterday i ran a whole series of 5-exposure HDR shots at +/- 2.0 EV, and compared the middle exposed shot (0 EV) to a manual shot of the same scene, and the both the exposure and exif data were identical. I did this test several times.
Here's another observation: As I use my camera regularly I never take the battery out, but always start a shoot with a fully charged one. However, for last 2 days I have removed it overnight. Both yesterday and this morning upon inserting the battery, switching on, and taking the first shot in the OVF, the first shot was NOT under exposed. I am not a technician or electrical engineer so I don't know what to conclude from this. I just mention it anyway in case someone can interpret this.
I'm gonna go and shoot some photography this weekend, give the camera some stick and see what the results are like. Whilst the camera performs, I'll hang on before sending it for repair.
---------- Post added 09-23-21 at 10:37 AM ----------
Originally posted by photogem What would be the most useful:
Upload a few incorrect exposed photos.
No flash, only AV and starting with wide open. This is photo #1
Best with a prime such as the DA50/1,8.
Start with 1.8, then 2,0, then 2,4 etc. up to f22
Also when you turn the camera round, look, into the lens and then switch LV ON: Does the diaphragm to into f4,0 or is completly closed
As I said, instructions are very clear.
To get "not frustrating answers" you need to follow these steps exactly and give exact answers/samples.
Don't misunderstand, but defining if the solenoid is gone is more or less an exact science.
Unfortunately, I don't have any more 'credit' left here on the forum to upload any pictures. Please see my reply to stevebrot above to see that I have tested out the camera extensively by comparing a series of HDR and manual shots. I have also performed tests such as you have suggested at different speeds, apertures and ISO and then compared the results. The results are consistent and evenly exposed.
Regarding: "Also when you turn the camera round, look, into the lens and then switch LV ON: Does the diaphragm to into f4,0 or is completly closed"... I switched on, set the aperture to f3.5 on a Sigma 10-20 lens, switched to LV, looked into the lens and yes the aperture closed to that setting. Bear in mind though that the camera had only been switched off about 20 minutes.
As I have emphasised various times in this post, the problem arises only after switching the camera on after a period in off of at least an hour. Hence my comment about removing the battery (in previous comment above) and whether this has any bearing, or not.