[batmanh]

Hello,

I'm looking for a way to improve my photos at night with artificial light. I don't have time for editing raw photos and I would prefer to do it with some camera settings. Iphone 11 in the same light conditions shots quite natural colors and face is not green.

So far I've found that I could experiment with following options:
* portrait
* night scene portrait
* skin tone - type1 & type2
* WB adjustable range
* AWB in tungsten light

is there anything else that I could try?

Should I shoot raw pictures and edit them? Is fixing White Balance correct way to correct green face?

Example shot is blurred and was made in Auto mode with all default settings, I corrected this photo by fixing White Balance in PhotoScape X on Mac, correction added a lot of red in the background, I'm pretty sure that green face version has more accurate background and shows what I've seen with my eyes.

Attached Images

   

[kypfer]

The green face is probably due to artificial lighting, most likely fluorescent.
The "proper" way to deal with this in camera is to take a white balance reading from a grey card and use that for the picture. This could involve taking a white balance reading for each picture.
The "modern" alternative would be to work in RAW then adjust the white balance later.
A compromise might be to take RAW+JPG, keep the JPG's that work and only adjust the RAW's if necessary.
The RAW images can be developed in the camera if necessary.
The RAW images can be discarded at any point after a satisfactory JPG is generated.
Working in a modern outdoor night-time environment with multiple different light sources can often be difficult!
The modern iPhone algorithms are very sophisticated!

[steephill]

Sounds like a task for "Multi-pattern auto white-balance control" - Automatic setting of proper white balance using a segmented image field

The multi-pattern auto white-balance control mode sets the proper balance for a given light source. It helps you reproduce colors similar to those seen by the naked eye under confusing lighting conditions, such as when sunny and shady spots coexist in an image field, or when there is a mixing of the camera’s flash illumination and fluorescent lighting in a single scene.

[kypfer]

Sounds like a task for "Multi-pattern auto white-balance control" - Automatic setting of proper white balance using a segmented image field
The multi-pattern auto white-balance control mode sets the proper balance for a given light source. It helps you reproduce colors similar to those seen by the naked eye under confusing lighting conditions, such as when sunny and shady spots coexist in an image field, or when there is a mixing of the camera’s flash illumination and fluorescent lighting in a single scene.

Oh wow!
Here's another feature I didn't know existed, let alone know how to take advantage of it!
Makes me wonder how I ever managed with my *istDS
Thankyou

[35mmfilmfan]

Have you thought of shooting in Monochrome ?

[Ausable]

In the green-face version, try masking the woman and then changing the color balance for her.

[Alex645]

I'm looking for a way to improve my photos at night with artificial light. I don't have time for editing raw photos and I would prefer to do it with some camera settings.
Should I shoot raw pictures and edit them? Is fixing White Balance correct way to correct green face.

The problem here is that your dominant color at twilight was magenta, so the Auto White Balance added green to eliminate the magenta.

IF you care about your shots, the best solution is shooting RAW and correcting in editing.
IF you prefer to shoot jpegs, then in extreme color balance situations like this, you need to adjust your white balance manually. If shooting with flash, that should also correct for subjects within the flash range.

[Bob 256]

It looks more like an issue of mixed sources. The background wall appears to have caught the attention of the camera's white balance and is a good white, but the foreground where your subject is, probably is bathed in light from another source (the background is probably LED which can produce a good photographic white). The only solution is as suggested, requiring a white balance using the source on the subject and a neutral card placed at that location. You'll never be able to achieve a good white balance for both areas without resorting to some area treatment in post processing.

A flash would probably help, filling in the subject with a better quality light and allowing the auto white balance to do a better job.

[batmanh]

Thanks for all suggestions, that's a huge amount of knowledge for me!