[polarstar]

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Well add me to the list of this aperture problem. A month before my trip to Scotland too. Stinks

[marcusBMG]

I used my KS2 for a couple of months after it started showing this problem by setting the RAW/FX button to stop down preview. Pressing that a few times would then free up the solenoid. Only a stop gap of course - in the end it won't work any more, and it puts more stress on the mechanics. The repair is straightforward, ask around to see if you can find a repair place if you're not up to DIY. There was a seller in Ca on ebay who sold the white solenoid*.
*quick search only found this guy here in UK. Price is quite good (esp with $-£ rate) post for small item like this no problem provided he'll ship

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255410865301?hash=item3b77ac8495:g:efgAAOSw0GNiHStg

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/193-pentax-k-70/399198-tutorial-repair-p...-solenoid.html

[Joetitch]

I understand that using lenses with aperture rings allows you to still take pictures. It just means a bit slower.

[photogem]

I used my KS2 for a couple of months after it started showing this problem by setting the RAW/FX button to stop down preview. Pressing that a few times would then free up the solenoid. Only a stop gap of course - in the end it won't work any more, and it puts more stress on the mechanics.

Quite right and not really recommended because of the stress.
The repair is much easier than it looks like.

[photogem]

I understand that using lenses with aperture rings allows you to still take pictures. It just means a bit slower.

M-Mode and green button.
But not for those only owning DA- or or DA-L or D-FA lenses (could even be the majority, as they just use the supplied Kit-Lens)

[Joetitch]

M-Mode and green button.
But not for those only owning DA- or or DA-L or D-FA lenses (could even be the majority, as they just use the supplied Kit-Lens)

It was a suggestion as it might be quicker to grab a couple lenses with ring than fix the camera, depending on time constraints. Wide angle could be an issue, but from 28mm upwards, there's a plethora of reasonable quality at a reasonable price. Of course this rating depends upon the user's expectations.

[photogem]

In England he can get the lateast Chinasolenoid from HERE for a very sensible price.
1 hour work and that's it (for the unexperienced)

[polarstar]

Thanks so much for the replies! I've ordered that white reman solenoid that is on ebay.

In the meantime I started thinking that I haven't used the camera much and maybe it's just sticky. I put the shutter into continuous shooting mode and fired it off a couple of time and presto, the images came back.

So yes, the question will be do I take a stab at fixing it before Scotland, or hoping it holds out with this quick fix.

I have all the tools and it shouldn't be a problem, but, you know, Murphy's Law 'n all.

(side note: i ordered that white solenoid before reading the replies.)

[reh321]

M-Mode and green button.
But not for those only owning DA- or or DA-L or D-FA lenses (could even be the majority, as they just use the supplied Kit-Lens)

I purchased a FA 28-135mm here and carried it around in my bag with my K-30 for a while - then the solenoid did stop working correctly. I used it for several months - then the price on the KP fell and I got it. I still use the K-30 on occasion, especially with flash. It required that I purchase an additional lens, but it is a fine solution for someone who has the willingness to cope with the resulting limitations. Now, with a K-70, a DA 55-300mm PLM lens would still be usable because the K-70 provides a KAF4 interface, which allows the body to request the aperture without using the solenoid, so only the wider focal lengths would be an issue.

[photogem]

In the meantime I started thinking that I haven't used the camera much and maybe it's just sticky. I put the shutter into continuous shooting mode and fired it off a couple of time and presto, the images came back.
So yes, the question will be do I take a stab at fixing it before Scotland, or hoping it holds out with this quick fix.

This so-called quick-fix can become a quick-problem in the worst case:
The complex mechanism which is hidden on the other side of the diaphragm-control-unit (which holds the solenoid) can go out of alignment.
It is rare, usually the solenoid just remains stuck all the time because the body and plunger won't get demagnetized (can't due to it's alloy-composition) Also on holidays you just want to enjoy a fully functioning camera and not think about what could happen or go more wrong.

So it is simply: "Once it's shouldered it becomes light"

Indecisiveness, i.e. tomorrow and again tomorrow makes things heavier.

I have all the tools and it shouldn't be a problem, but, you know, Murphy's Law 'n all.

The better one is prepared the better things will work out. It seems that you have some experience as you got the tool.

(side note: I ordered that white solenoid before reading the replies.)

That is the best, no question!

Now, with a K-70, a DA 55-300mm PLM lens would still be usable because the K-70 provides a KAF4 interface, which allows the body to request the aperture without using the solenoid, so only the wider focal lengths would be an issue.

The most sensible (though expensive) solution and a great leans.
But in Scotland my preference would to for landscape. A wonderful country.

[polarstar]

Done and done. Thanks for the help everyone. And yes, I discovered this problem when I picked up a new 18-135 Pentax lens for the trip.


Another question: Can anyone recommend some good double-side gooey tape for under the rubber grips? They doubled up on themselves and I couldn't unroll them.

I'm thinking this tape here: https://www.amazon.com/Double-Strong-Adhesive-Acrylic-Tablets/dp/B019OQ4ZG0/...55&sr=8-4&th=1

[Not a Number]

A contact adhesive like PlioBond is what many camera repair/restorers use to tack rubber grips and leatherette. Apply a thin even layer to both clean surfaces, let it dry until it is "tacky" to the touch and then press together.

[m42man]

I understand that using lenses with aperture rings allows you to still take pictures. It just means a bit slower.

Not necessarily. Assuming a hard fault, the camera can be relied upon to attempt to always stop down - arrested only by an aperture-ring setting. This means Av mode will work as before - BUT won't expose correctly (unless the lens is wide open) because it has no knowledge of the operating aperture.

However, all you have to do for correct exposure is do what the camera would normally do - i.e. calculate the correct exposure for the set aperture and get the camera to expose accordingly. And you do this using Exposure Compensation. So, for an f2 lens set to f4, just use +2EV compensation, and the correct exposure will result. This is usually more accurate than the green button in M-mode, as it emulates normal operation.

Assuming it's convenient to operate at a single given aperture setting, this means you can shoot away just as you would normally in Av mode.

Not so useful if the lens is a variable (max) aperture zoom though...

[photogem]

.... Not so useful if the lens is a variable (max) aperture zoom though...

what do you mean with variable (max) aperture?
I don't understand the meaning of max.

A zoom has variable focal length, and aperture changes with most zooms when changing the focal length,
so that is clear.
But what about (max)?

Possibly again a question of language!

[reh321]

Not necessarily. Assuming a hard fault, the camera can be relied upon to attempt to always stop down - arrested only by an aperture-ring setting. This means Av mode will work as before - BUT won't expose correctly (unless the lens is wide open) because it has no knowledge of the operating aperture.

However, all you have to do for correct exposure is do what the camera would normally do - i.e. calculate the correct exposure for the set aperture and get the camera to expose accordingly. And you do this using Exposure Compensation. So, for an f2 lens set to f4, just use +2EV compensation, and the correct exposure will result. This is usually more accurate than the green button in M-mode, as it emulates normal operation.

Assuming it's convenient to operate at a single given aperture setting, this means you can shoot away just as you would normally in Av mode.

Not so useful if the lens is a variable (max) aperture zoom though...

Your answer is very confusing. The simple fact is that a camera body, like my K30, is usable with a aperture-ring equipped lens. The aperture set may require a slower shutter speed and/or higher ISO setting than the user would prefer, but that has always been the case. The only difference is that the body cannot set the aperture - back to the old days before ‘KA’ lenses.