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06-03-2019, 05:52 PM   #1
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What are your thoughts on this ND 100000 Filter?

Marumi ND 100000 Filter DHG

It seems to have good reviews from both Amazon US and Japan, and not expensive.

I am interesting to get one mainly for daytime long exposure photography. Saying “day time long exposure” I am not mean cloud and or water moving but more of “urban scene” with car and people moving. I has been using combination of a polarizer + timing of the day or shoot indoor low-light + multiple exposure and layer blend it in Photoshop with fairly success but not a fun process. You know..., I have to shoot many image, the files are big which make my computer run very slow every time I process massive number of large files in Photoshop.

What do you think about the filter?

Any better alternative I should check out?

ND100000 is overkill for what I want to do? If so, what is your suggestion? (I just get a feeling it might be a bit over kill? I want to have ghosting shadow of people and car in my shot.). I will be more than happy to see sample images here and if you can let me / us know your setting, it will be highly appreciated.

06-03-2019, 06:07 PM - 1 Like   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by tokyoscape Quote
Marumi ND 100000 Filter DHG

It seems to have good reviews from both Amazon US and Japan, and not expensive.

I am interesting to get one mainly for daytime long exposure photography. Saying “day time long exposure” I am not mean cloud and or water moving but more of “urban scene” with car and people moving. I has been using combination of a polarizer + timing of the day or shoot indoor low-light + multiple exposure and layer blend it in Photoshop with fairly success but not a fun process. You know..., I have to shoot many image, the files are big which make my computer run very slow every time I process massive number of large files in Photoshop.

What do you think about the filter?

Any better alternative I should check out?

ND100000 is overkill for what I want to do? If so, what is your suggestion? (I just get a feeling it might be a bit over kill? I want to have ghosting shadow of people and car in my shot.). I will be more than happy to see sample images here and if you can let me / us know your setting, it will be highly appreciated.
I believe that filter is for photographing a solar eclipse. I doubt it will work in the application you propose.
06-03-2019, 08:43 PM - 2 Likes   #3
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You want something like the Hoya NDX400, which is 9 stops, or you may want even less.
06-04-2019, 12:00 AM - 2 Likes   #4
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I did this with a Vu sion 3 stop ND in the shade on a sunny day, F11 3 second exposure


In the sun with f11 a 1 stop, 2 stop and 3 stop stacked, I could do 0.6 of a second.
I came to the conclusion the 1 and 2 stops were no use except for if I wanted to capture something very fast in the sun with a shallow depth of field shooting 1.4.

If you want the 3 stop one, it's very cheap on B&H in some filter threads.

06-04-2019, 01:46 AM - 2 Likes   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by tokyoscape Quote
I just get a feeling it might be a bit over kill? I want to have ghosting shadow of people and car in my shot.
That filter should be about 16.5 stops. That's a lot. In bright sunlight you could easily end up with a 10+ minute exposure. Sunny Sixteen would give you ISO100, f/16, 1/125s, add the filter and you'd have something like ISO100, f/16, 12 minutes. Even opening up to f/5.6 would keep you in the minutes. That would pretty much eliminate all and any ghosting unless you have people sitting/standing fairly still for most of that time. Or have very dense/slow moving traffic.
06-04-2019, 04:11 PM   #6
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Thank you all for the information. It is always a good idea to ask you guys first
and the Sunny16 mentioned by @savoche is a very good point to start with.

---------- Post added 06-04-19 at 04:24 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by pentax360 Quote
I did this with a Vu sion 3 stop ND in the shade on a sunny day, F11 3 second exposure
Yes, 2.5 - 3 sec seems to be the one I should look for (based on sunny16 rule), Thank you, a lot. I am checking it out right now.

Last edited by tokyoscape; 06-04-2019 at 04:26 PM.
06-10-2019, 11:27 AM - 1 Like   #7
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I would pick standard ND400-ND1000 filter and use Pentax in-camera multiexposure blending to get one RAW file. Just do not go over 256 exposures per shot, colors fall apart in the scene.
09-06-2019, 08:04 PM - 1 Like   #8
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This would be a good filter to make a crowd in a large city disappear. Get extremely long exposures with normal light.

09-07-2019, 02:28 PM - 2 Likes   #9
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You may be able to photograph one of these. But I would use a very long lens.


09-08-2019, 03:45 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by gaweidert Quote
You may be able to photograph one of these. But I would use a very long lens.

Actually, the image you show is more a display of shutter speed than ND filters. Images such as this had a effective shutter speed around three millionths of a second using specialized cameras where the image sensor (film) was stationary and shot a single frame. The cameras were known as Rapatronic cameras. Rapatronic camera - Wikipedia
"For a film-like sequence of high-speed photographs, as used in the photography of nuclear and thermonuclear tests, arrays of up to 12 cameras were deployed, with each camera carefully timed to record sequentially. Each camera was capable of recording only one exposure on a single sheet of film. Therefore, in order to create time-lapse sequences, banks of four to ten cameras were set up to take photos in rapid succession. The average exposure time used was three microseconds."
ND filters were not used during the tests.

Remember the exposure triangle - from that you can guestimate the ASA (ISO) and aperture of the camera. By the way, nuclear explosion's produce a lot of light.
10-31-2019, 11:06 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by PDL Quote
Actually, the image you show is more a display of shutter speed than ND filters. Images such as this had a effective shutter speed around three millionths of a second using specialized cameras where the image sensor (film) was stationary and shot a single frame. The cameras were known as Rapatronic cameras. Rapatronic camera - Wikipedia
"For a film-like sequence of high-speed photographs, as used in the photography of nuclear and thermonuclear tests, arrays of up to 12 cameras were deployed, with each camera carefully timed to record sequentially. Each camera was capable of recording only one exposure on a single sheet of film. Therefore, in order to create time-lapse sequences, banks of four to ten cameras were set up to take photos in rapid succession. The average exposure time used was three microseconds."
ND filters were not used during the tests.

Remember the exposure triangle - from that you can guestimate the ASA (ISO) and aperture of the camera. By the way, nuclear explosion's produce a lot of light.
That's one experiment I wouldn't want to do at college.
12-12-2019, 07:51 PM   #12
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FWIW, I have a Cokin Variable ND filter that I find works very well for long exposure in daylight situations.

The reason I chose it was because it doesn't seem to change the color of the seen, and the variable setting allow me to try a variety of ideas without having to change filters.
12-12-2019, 08:44 PM   #13
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Try to estimate exposure times at a moderate aperture such as f5.6 for a few nd strenghts, there are many equivalent exposure calculators online. 10 stops should be enough, and then you can stop down further to get even longer exposures. With 16 stops, if it's even just a bit cloudy you may not have enough options to increase aperture and iso. Or perhaps you can get a 3 and 6 or 8 stop to combine as needed.
12-16-2019, 08:28 AM - 2 Likes   #14
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I have an ND4000 (12Ev) and on a cloudy/sunny day I had to expose 3 minutes :

PENTAX K-1 • FF Mode • 100 ISO • Irix Blackstone 15mm F2.4
Haida 150mm Filter Holder • Neutral Density glass filter ND3.6 -12Ev
12-18-2019, 08:53 AM   #15
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I have looked at those ND100000 filters as a potentially good for photographing the sun.
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