[TXPentaxK50]

Simply put, I can capture volleyball images that I could not with the K-50. Easily shoots at 3200 ISO, super fast continuous shutter. This camera is a winner. All of these were shot with a 35-70 Tamron 2.8 AF @ 3200 ISO, 1/500. All were underexposed to freeze the action but I was able to lighten everything later.

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[Ex Finn.]

Nice results from challenging lighting!

[TXPentaxK50]

part 2

---------- Post added 01-08-18 at 08:15 PM ----------

Nice results from challenging lighting!

Thank you! I am figuring out that you need to shoot 500 pics to come up with 20 you can actually use.

[Ex Finn.]

I am figuring out that you need to shoot 500 pics to come up with 20 you can actually use.

Sounds about right from what I remember when shooting girls H.S. soccer at night.

[biz-engineer]

Doesn't look sharp.

[TXPentaxK50]

Doesn't look sharp.

I would definitely like to improve further! Any suggestions?

[link81]

I agree with Biz, they look a little fuzzy,
Wondering if it's the lens being wide open. Maybe increase the iso and stop down a stop.

Also do the lens calibration, and adjust for any front/back focus issues.

[TXPentaxK50]

Great feedback! I feel that I am very close to capturing some great images.

Also FYI, I’m shooting JPEG. Would shooting RAW help my cause ?

[caliscouser]

A great start but a few thoughts......Underexposing JPGs and then pushing them later will not give the best possible results.

Shoot RAW if you are willing to spend the time post-processing or let the camera do the heavy lifting and shoot JPG with optimum settings.

What JPG settings did you use for size and quality? What settings for High-ISO NR? How did you resize and upload these images to the forums?
What Custom Image setting did you use and did you change any of the standard parameters?

Check you lens, how does it perform otherwise. Is it sharp and is focus well calibrated at the 50-75mm range that you used here?

[Ex Finn.]

Would shooting RAW help my cause ?

I did RAW couple times but it proved to be too much of a hassle. Capturing an in focus JPEG with decent DOF goes long ways.

[Ex Finn.]

"On a digital body with a sub-frame sensor, the sensor is using the central "sweet spot" of the lens: Thanks in part to this, the lens exhibits excellent sharpness with slightly soft spots in the corners on the wider side (28-35mm) at f/2.8. Zoomed out further, the sharpness deteriorates but still maintains a level that's quite acceptable. Reducing the aperture just one stop to f/4, however, produces incredible across-the-frame sharpness all the way from 28-75mm: if you demand optical excellence, then this is the optimal aperture for this lens. The lens is very well-behaved to f/11,"

Read than on the internet, must be true.Try stopping that lens down, if no improvement then it could have a problem.

edit: just in case you have any filters on the lens, take them off!

[Ex Finn.]

"Too much of a hassle"? Is that the same as I'm not going to do my best?

No. The kids and the parents just did not appreciate the hours of processing involved when going through 800-1200 images and picking the best of the best.
They wanted Instagram now...

edit: customer comes first, even the non paying kind.

[mikesbike]

I know for a fact that lack of sharpness is not because of shooting JPEGs. That particular lens wide open is one suspect. You might have to boost ISO a little more and shoot at f/3.2 or so. I would think 1/500 sec for such activity is enough, but possibly a little more shutter speed may be needed. I little blur on the ball itself is ok, even desirable, but not at the expense of sharpness of the player. One reason I wonder is that your group shot looks better than your action shots. Was your lens wide open then too? Is your sharpening set to "F" for Fine sharpening in the Custom Image menu?

Always follow the ball, and follow the action with the left eye free of the camera also while the ball is in the air, but as soon as you know who will get it, train focus the player's face. For example, in your 4th photo here, the number 8 on the player's shirt is much sharper than her face. You will get better each time you do it.

I Just checked some of my roller-hockey shots I still have. At 1/500 sec I was able to stop action enough to see detail on the puck as it flies through the air. I am certain this puck was traveling faster than a volley ball. I either shoot wide open or at f/3.2 and 1/500 sec to 1/640 sec.

Also, another thing that should help in addition to the above techniques, it might be a good idea to go for less individual-only closeups and instead get more players into the frame even though having the main player the one being focused on. This means shooting from farther back, or better yet, it means shooting from the same distance but not using the lens at its tele extreme where it will most likely be at its weakest. I shoot my roller hockey from the goalie's viewpoint, as being my person of most interest, and use a FL around the 24-40mm range most often. I use a Sigma 24-60mm f/2.8 lens. This wider perspective will also provide more DOF in your shot. And it will give your shot of the play more context for the game's action.

[caliscouser]

Half the shots are f/2.8 and half are f/3.2. They both look soft.

You could try turning Shake Reduction off as well.

[mikesbike]

My roller hockey shots were taken last season, before I had the KP. I was using my K-5 IIs. The KP no doubt, will be yet better for AF and higher ISO. I shoot all JPEGs for these needs.