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05-28-2018, 03:08 AM - 6 Likes   #1
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my NEW KP IS ARRIVED - FIRST IMPRESSIONS

So,



Let's go.



There is no so obvoius difference in body when you just look the K-3, or KP, standing one by another, but there is a huge difference when you hold KP, versus K-3.


KP is much more comfortable to play with it, in one hand, flipping it around. Heaviness from K-3 is gone for good. The main reason I bought the KP is this - and I'm happy, with the feel.

I instantly put Sigma 17-50 mm, and later 17-70 mm - just to notice, there is no much improvement in handling, when you have such heavy zoom lens. Both my Sigma are pretty big, and heavy,
and on K-3 with larger more massive grip, they have more natural feel,
but yet - on KP they feel also good,
with no special problems to hold the combo in one hand.

--
I find the MENU straight forward, and easy to understand, because it's very similar to K-3 menu.

Also,
I found the sweet little bug in it.

There is shortcut to the Menu Functions, when you press INFO, we all know that . The bug is when you press Shadow Correction, from MENU, or from INFO shortcut.
One does not change the ( at least displayed) state of another.

--
So, if I completely shut off, the Shadow Correction from MENU, it still displayed ( like it's still turning on ) in INFO MENU. The situation is confusing, so you don't know - is it On, or Off.

--
Quick zOOM after taking picture, in 1 sec preview mode, is not possible, like in K-3, and you have to press PLAY button instead, to take short observation on sharpness, and etc...
--
In K-3 is not possible to put the camera in Strict Live View mode, every time when I wanted to shoot from screen mode, I had to press LV button, to enter that mode. It was frustrating, because in many occasions, I shoot from that mode, specially in driving, when I take the picture from vehicle.

WELL, THAT'S CHANGED IN KP.
KP have LV, Video, and Viewfinder mode separated all the time, so when you leave the camera in one of this modes, and turn it off - next time, when you turned it ON, it would be again in that mode.

If you turn it off,

in Live View mode, it will be in Live View again, when you turned it on, next time. Finally !
--
I tried to put additional grips, to feel them, and to see how quickly and easily I can put them on camera.

Each grip, have own imbus screw,

there is no need to put the screw out, and turn it into another grip.
Grips have Z clutch, and when you feel it's clutched, you just tighten the screw.
Screw it self have a short way, and in few turn the grip is locked well.
--
Tilt Screen
Not bad .

I can see it was the almost most missing part of my K-3, because its so easy to shoot under the level of your belly. K-3 screen have very low contrast ratio, and when you look into it - from most of the angles, picture is not good enough.

I can see same pattern in KP,

but the Tilting it Up, improve that low contrast issue a lot. The difference is huge.

--
Burst shooting.

I'm not quite impressed, but it can be done well, specially when you choose M format, instead of L, and some faster SD card.

I would love to see improved that area.
The buffer of KP is weak - but no so weak, to not the have the job done.

Levels in burts mode are

L, M, and H ( low, moderate, and high )
.
L mode is not good for nothing. I don't know the measure , but if you press and hold shutter button, there will be 2 shots per second, maybe even 1.5 per second.

M, and H mode are acceptable to use it with confidence.

Also, there is no changing that frame rates in every mode ( like in Oly cameras )
What you see is what you get.

I don't mind for that too much, it's enough for me.

--
When we're talking about burst rates - you will must turn off the skin color correction, because, the processing is very slow, and it eats up the burst result. There is literaly no burst mode at all, when some of this advanced post processing JPG modes is turned on.

--
Another lens I attached is sweet 35 mm Pentax 2.4, and wow - the result is very subtle heaviness, well balanced, so pretty to hod in hands, left or right.

--
Picture quality.

--
From reviews I read, I was 100 % sure, KP is big performer,

but yesterday, I take a couple of pics, in very low light environment,

and WOOW...
Kp just blown me away !
--
I set up my Noise Reduction, to Custom, and I choose No NOISE Reduction till 6400 ( i will turn that Off for 6400 too ) - and every ISo above, I choose lowest correction rates .



Pictures taken with 1/20, ( shake reduction On ), 6.7 aperture, and ISO 12800 are stunning !


Hole scene in my JPG have better light, than the one I can see with my eyes ! Increase in light was not give the unnatural look. Shadow correction was set to highest.



Noise - ZERO ! I can't believe how good this photos are, taken in almost NO light, with such high ISO rate.
Shake reduction is pretty good,

and certainly way better the K-3.





Other impressions I would add later, if I find something new.





05-28-2018, 03:06 PM - 1 Like   #2
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Enjoy your new low light beast.
edit: and it does have a pretty decisive focusing also.
05-28-2018, 03:15 PM - 1 Like   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by panonski Quote
Quick zOOM after taking picture, in 1 sec preview mode, is not possible,
It is, you have to spin the dial under a second.
05-28-2018, 06:23 PM - 1 Like   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ex Finn. Quote
It is, you have to spin the dial under a second.
Yes, it is as Ex Finn said. If you are going to carry extra batteries just set it at 3 seconds when you aren't shooting fast. You will love your KP the more you try to do with it.

05-29-2018, 12:44 AM - 1 Like   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ex Finn. Quote
It is, you have to spin the dial under a second.

I figured it up... There is check mark box, under the settings for quick zoom review. It must be checked ...



TNX

Last edited by panonski; 05-29-2018 at 01:17 AM.
06-30-2018, 04:11 AM   #6
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Would you share some of your settings on KP?

Отправлено с моего Redmi 3 через Tapatalk
06-30-2018, 09:24 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by Belcik Quote
Would you share some of your settings on KP?

Отправлено с моего Redmi 3 через Tapatalk
hm hm,

I was playing a bit with WB settings, and with Bright, and Flat modules. since I became a fun of real color images with added just a little a punch of color, and shading.


It's up to your desired field or work to do. If you need real extraordinary files with spot on color reproduction, I would recomend to do some test shoots, and playing under customize each of the predifend modes like "bright" of "flat".

They are real different, and you will have to figured it out wich mode and with which WB settings works the best for you.


I don't like warm colors, and blue and cold also is not my favourite.

also what I notice is different results, depends of your shadow correction. Shadow correction is my favourite settings to play with. With this turned to maximum, you can get more lights in shadows,
then you have in real scene, when you observe it with your own eye.


So it's a very powerfull solution, and you have to watch it.


There is a plenty of solutions, and you have to mastered it.
06-30-2018, 11:11 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by panonski Quote
hm hm,

I was playing a bit with WB settings, and with Bright, and Flat modules. since I became a fun of real color images with added just a little a punch of color, and shading.


It's up to your desired field or work to do. If you need real extraordinary files with spot on color reproduction, I would recomend to do some test shoots, and playing under customize each of the predifend modes like "bright" of "flat".

They are real different, and you will have to figured it out wich mode and with which WB settings works the best for you.


I don't like warm colors, and blue and cold also is not my favourite.

also what I notice is different results, depends of your shadow correction. Shadow correction is my favourite settings to play with. With this turned to maximum, you can get more lights in shadows,
then you have in real scene, when you observe it with your own eye.


So it's a very powerfull solution, and you have to watch it.


There is a plenty of solutions, and you have to mastered it.

What are you using to post process? I have been shooting Raw+ and leaving shadow correction off and just using the 14 bit depth to either darken (my usual move) or lighten the shadows and blacks. I want less lag and no processing done other than the minimum by the camera.

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