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10-26-2019, 03:13 AM   #46
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Keep on keeping on with your excellent pixel shift shots though!

10-26-2019, 08:51 AM   #47
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rondec Quote
So I shoot RAW+ with jpegs going to one card (mainly to be used if I want something quick to post here or to social media) and RAWs on the other.

For whatever reason, my experience is that what takes time is not post processing, but rather the process of deleting all of the crappy photos I take. Because I come back from a vacation and 80 percent of the photos just need to be pitched. There are five photos of the same view that wasn't really that great to begin with and three of my kids doing some activity. Figuring out for sure which ones to keep and which ones to pitch is what takes time and shooting jpeg doesn't help much with that. Once I know which photos I have kept, it is actually pretty quick to go through and do some editing. To me, if I am doing any editing (bumping shadows, cropping a bit, adjusting the crooked horizon) I might just as well have shot RAW. Jpeg is for situations where everything is completely perfect out of camera and unfortunately that doesn't happen very often for me.
Similar experience here. Except I don't use RAW+. I'm going to be going through them all anyway, and I almost never want to keep something untouched. So no sense in bothering with jpeg duplicates of everything.

---------- Post added 10-26-19 at 11:54 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by MrB1 Quote
It is clear that raw files have more latitude for adjustment than JPEGs, But raw capture is often not essential, as it is also true that JPEGs from the camera can be edited, and can nearly always be enhanced by doing so. I agree that the first image in post #42 has too much saturation and contrast - just for interest have you tried editing the Canon JPEG? Below is the image after a few tweaks in PaintShop Pro. It is possible (or probable) that the JPEG image would be less problematic if it had been captured by a Pentax DSLR with Custom Image set to Natural and with the D-Range settings switched on - there would be lower saturation and contrast, and more shadow details would have been recorded in the JPEG, so more could have been revealed with simple shadow adjustments.

Philip
No, I hadn't tried editing the Canon jpeg. You did get some more details out of it.


I think you'd have to do some work up front setting up camera jpeg settings to account for the light and the situation, and even then it might not be exactly what you wanted. I never really do that, maybe I could experiment. But I'll probably just continue shooting RAW and putting in time in post.
10-26-2019, 09:09 AM - 1 Like   #48
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I don't like fiddling around with photos, so I've always shot JPEG only with all of my Pentax cameras.
A few tweaks with Google Photos (formerly I used Picasa) and I'm good to go. Photography is just a hobby for me.
10-26-2019, 01:17 PM   #49
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QuoteOriginally posted by arnold Quote
I think a sense of perspective is needed here. Modern DSLRs put out remarkably good jpegs, that for most purposes are more than adequate unless one is doing a professional shoot or working in difficult conditions. I use JPEG set to the highest quality and find that when zooming to 200% it is still of fine enough quality for me. However, I do also shoot raw when I think there are deep shadows or is that particular picture is so important to me that I want the assurance of the best possible rendition.
To me shooting everything in raw seems obsessive. Not every picture deserves the work of processing from raw. Certainly when trying to fix an important picture, it is better to have the raw data, however a properly exposed jpeg OOC is usually better than I myself can manage from raw.
My procedure is shoot top quality jpeg, and add the raw of those I really want the very best of.
My finding also. Especially with the KP. If there tends to be a lot of contrast to deal with, and the importance of getting a particular photo into the best possible outcome, I then will shoot both RAW and JPEG.

I have an old PS Elements, maybe no.1 which came with my first and now antiquated scanner back in 2001, which has faster and easier to use tools than later editions. So I have found I can work with JPEG images very effectively with this old software, including white balance correction. That said, I try to get the exposure, etc right on in the first place, so the chances of needing post corrections are minimized.

10-30-2019, 03:12 AM   #50
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recently I started shooting in RAW DNG format, and I discovered much better control over White Balance, which is hard(er) to correct in JPG files.

Strong yellow, or Blue WB in JPG files, sometimes is hard to correct - without sacrifice of the final and overall color balance .
--

I started to use DNGs - when I was shooting Real Estate, and with that in mind, I was trying to pull the shadows out a little bit more.

I found out, that - with DNGs and JPGs - in shadow lifting - there is not so much difference, specially with recent image engines in Pentax Cameras, which seems to be in maximum usefulness in JPG,

specially in cases,

when you turn the Shadow Correction, to be on middle, or max.

--
But,

MOre difference is visible when you shifting White Balance slider in the LightRoom - because you can litreally feel - how different is your photo immediatelly.

--
So whenever you're not so certain about correct WB - and which settings to use in JPG - use DNG.

I must admit that in the past,

I avoided to use DNGs because of the big memory capacity, but after seeing what DNG can do in WB field - I encourege myself to do that every time I have to do some professional job.


Cheers

Last edited by panonski; 10-30-2019 at 03:20 AM.
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