[amatula]

Hi!
I am so grateful to find this forum and to see so many here!

I "stumbled upon" the KP after considering a number of other brands. I liked the images I saw, especially for low light.
I am upgrading from the Canon Rebel SL1 with 24 mm F2.8 lens.

Can you tell me:

I like to be able to use my cameras for a long time (4+ years) before upgrading. I am selective shooter so don't anticipate even shooting close to 100,000 images. If you own the KP, has it been consistently reliable for you over a long time period?

I am a enthusiast level landscape shooter (acknowledging I have much yet to learn!) and I love the thought of taking photos in woods "lovely, dark and deep" (Robert Frost) so grateful for the camera's low light detail.

But.... I am also a pixel peeper (think sharp, focused images with depth of field I expect) and someone who generally prefers jpegs requiring no to minimal post-editting; I do not like to adjust colors.

Based on that, is this a good camera for me?

Also, in terms of lens, what has been your experience with the 16-50mm f/2.8 ED AL [IF] SDM?
I read reviews and seems good, although not - based on reviews - great.

What do you use/recommend (that won't break my piggy bank savings ? I love the idea of a shorter zoom, such as the above or 24-70 or prime lens in the range of 16-28.

Thank you so much for your time!
And all the best!
Annie

[SteveinSLC]

The KP is a great lens for landscapes. Mine has certainly worked well for me on that front. Good image quality and dynamic range. Well built and weather sealed so you won't have to worry about being out in dust or rain. Compact so you can carry it on hikes or when traveling. Without going up to full-frame, there's probably few better options from any manufacturer.

The 16-50 on the other hand, wouldn't be my first choice. It gets pretty mixed reviews, including on this site. Unless you're shooting astro, there's no need for 2.8 for landscapes. Mostly you'll be shooting at F8 or higher. If you want a zoom, I'd highly recommend the 16-85. Or get the 18-135, which is good, even lighter, and a DA15, which will be far better than the 16 end on the 16-50.

[amatula]

Steve, thank you so much! I appreciate that info!
All the best!
Annie

[Megapixelmk]

You can't go wrong with the KP, and pixel peeping (since you are into that) will not disappoint. Also it is built tough. Mine has endured a few dunks and spills in a river as well as the odd knock, and keeps on regardless. I haven't owned the 16-50mm so I can't comment on it, but I do recommend the 16-85mm, especially at the wide end. I also loved the older 16-45mm, and achieved some of my best images with it.
Regarding shooting jpegs there are a multitude of custom settings where you can fine tune your jpegs to your own tastes... just experiment with them.
The KP in my opinion is one the best crop sensor dslrs out there. I don't think you will regret it.

[amatula]

You can't go wrong with the KP, and pixel peeping (since you are into that) will not disappoint. Also it is built tough. Mine has endured a few dunks and spills in a river as well as the odd knock, and keeps on regardless. I haven't owned the 16-50mm so I can't comment on it, but I do recommend the 16-85mm, especially at the wide end. I also loved the older 16-45mm, and achieved some of my best images with it.
Regarding shooting jpegs there are a multitude of custom settings where you can fine tune your jpegs to your own tastes... just experiment with them.
The KP in my opinion is one the best crop sensor dslrs out there. I don't think you will regret it.

Megapixelmk, thank you so much!
Are you referencing this lens: Pentax SMCP-DA 16-45mm f/4.0 ED AL A?
(I googled for the range and that came up)
Thank you, again!
Annie

[interested_observer]

Evening, I'm going to take a slightly different approach to answering your question. I have a K5 and a K5IIs (also a K1 too, but were talking crop here) that are now 10 and ~7 years old. Same magnesium alloy body construction as the KP. Probably about 10,000 and 5,000 frames on them. The KP should last you quite a while. I would not worry about the Pentax build quality.

For a lens, you might consider the DA 20-40 Limited. It's a short zoom, very mild wide angle to very mild zoom, small and light with a excellent image quality.

Pentax has always been noted for their overall image quality. They have always been able to pull more performance out of Sony sensors than Sony has been able to do.

I would also like to touch on the topic of the JPG format. In various comparisons of the factory set JPG standard output, Pentax's JPG is panned next to everyone else - Canon, Nikon, Sony, Fuji, etc. The other brands tune their JPG output to sell cameras. Bright, colorful, sharp, punchy, etc. (and by doing this the other brands degrade their overall image quality). Pentax tunes their JPG output to retain as much information and image detail as possible.

Now, you can tune/tailor your JPG output (on the camera body setup) to your heart's content to have it match whomever else, which is fine. However, I might suggest that if you are going to shoot JPG, shoot JPG+Raw. Why? The JPG format is destructive. Once you make a change, you can never go back - you loose information. That is the base characteristic of the JPG format. JPG is an 8 bit format (you only have 256 colors/tones), where in with RAW you have 14 bits of color information (16,384 colors/tones). By storing your camera's output in JPG you are losing (throwing away) 97% of the image's captured information. Normally, it doesn't matter on most days, with most images. However, where it does matter is in the shadows, and being able to recover the image details within the shadows, along with the wider color tonal changes and transitions. By shooting in JPG+Raw - you get the best of both worlds, getting a quick JPG image right out of the camera, but also having the RAW file should you ever want to go back and process your images with out destroying any of the information and bring out the best of the image and its image quality.

[MrB1]

The KP would be an excellent and easy choice for your type of photography. The lens is your more difficult choice, given your request that it "won't break my piggy bank savings" - it might help others to know what that means regarding the size of your budget. You might also consider whether you feel comfortable about putting a bulky lens on a compact DSLR - i am definitely not, and prefer the DA primes (or the DA 20-40 zoom) and certainly nothing bigger than the (under 1 pound) DA 18-135 or DA 55-300 PLM. Final thoughts: excessive pixel-peeping is an unnecessary obsession and should be avoided - most viewers will look at images not pixels. But, of course, to each his/her own.

Philip

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Last edited by MrB1; 03-14-2020 at 01:06 AM.

[Megapixelmk]

Megapixelmk, thank you so much!
Are you referencing this lens: Pentax SMCP-DA 16-45mm f/4.0 ED AL A?
(I googled for the range and that came up)
Thank you, again!
Annie

Yes that's the one Annie. Although older, it's a favorite of users on this site and very light. And it can be picked up used for very little outlay.
Given landscape photography is what you enjoy (like me) I am personally a big fan of zoom lens starting at 16mm. It's equivalent to 24mm full frame and that's a sweet spot for landscape for me. I've never been a fan of the 18-55 or 20-40mm for that reason. The extra few millimeters make a big difference!
Also to be recommended if you want to go down the ultra wide route is the 12-24mm. Look up the reviews by users. It is truly value for money.
I also agree with the previous sentiment : Pixel peeping is a modern day curse and too much of it occupies the minds of too many photographers. Instead, stand back and enjoy your work as a whole. 😉

[cport]

Concerning the sensor quality, KP is still among the best cameras.


Pros:

- sensor quality
- weather sealed
- pixelshift (which also extends the dynamic range for about 1,5EV!!)
- various multiexposure multiexposure modes (so useful to get an image straight from the camera!)
- HDR RAW
- THE LAST THREE ITEMS YOU CAN HARDLY FIND IN OTHER BRAND CAMERAS!

Cons:
- battery life (especially when using LV in cold conditions)
- no IR port (either you have to use WIFI (this agains shortens the battery life) or to buy a cable cord for <2$)

As a consequence you get that KP is pretty unique for landscape shooting! I would say the best in APS-C cameras.


Concerning lenses:
- instead of 16-50/2,8 I would recommend 16-85!
- if you intend to shoot wider, take the excellent 11-18.
- these are zoom options.However, KP is great with limiteds - DA 15, DA 21 and DA70. They bring you much better flare resistance (in comparison to zoom lenses) when you shooting agains the sun. For example: the first one is taken with 15ltd


https://www.pentaxfriends.eu/gallery/albums/userpics/Kosuta-_resize.jpg

And this one with (otherwise sharper and excellent) 12-24/4:

Fotogalerie[gallery2]/5/

[mikesbike]

The KP would be an excellent and easy choice for your type of photography. The lens is your more difficult choice, given your request that it "won't break my piggy bank savings" - it might help others to know what that means regarding the size of your budget. You might also consider whether you feel comfortable about putting a bulky lens on a compact DSLR - i am definitely not, and prefer the DA primes (or the DA 20-40 zoom) and certainly nothing bigger than the (under 1 pound) DA 18-135 or DA 55-300 PLM. Final thoughts: excessive pixel-peeping is an unnecessary obsession and should be avoided - most viewers will look at images not pixels. But, of course, to each his/her own.

Philip

I agree. As to JPEGs right out of the camera, the KP excels. Better dynamic range than one would expect for JPEG images- that is shadow and highlight detail. As to JPEG + RAW, a good idea, but takes up a lot of storage room, and slows up write time for action shooting, so I reserve doing that for special shots where I might be extra picky for more active post process editing, or that kind of subject with also a very high contrast situation to get the maximum DR possible. The end result will of course depend on post processing skills. The KP's out of camera results are exceptional, though. Just be sure to implement "Fine Sharpening" in the Custom Image finishing menus, especially in the most often-used "Bright" category to bring out maximum detail in images. Very important. Any trouble with that, just give a holler.

The camera might come already with the mode dial set on the green "auto" mode. But the first thing is, do not use this setting. If you desire fully automatic exposure by the camera choosing the aperture and shutter speed, use the "P" (Program) setting instead. The KP has a beautiful controls design. The green "auto" mode denies access to many controls and adjustments, including the exclusive Pentax Hyper System, the fastest, most efficient operating system in existence. More on that after you get the camera.

I also recommend the DA 20-40mm Limited lens for a short zoom, which fits the KP's design as if made for it. I've had mine for over two years, and love it. I bought my KP in silver, got it from B&H and it is a beaut, the lens as well. The build quality of this lens is in keeping with the excellent build of this unique camera body, and features WR in its construction like the camera body, and has a quiet, accurate AF system. I too have long had the K-5 IIs, a fine camera, along with many lenses, and still like it and use it on occasion, but the KP is my usual choice.

For what it is, the KP's price these days is not bad at all. Cameras of this build class do not come cheap, same with lenses of this caliber. To get metal construction with WR in Canon or Nikon, the bodies start in the $1,000 + range, and the same with WR lenses.

Your canon 24mm f/2.8 checks out as a very good-performing little lens, except for very heavy vignetting at f/2.8 aperture.

If you wish to do some extra-wide angle work, it is best to get a lens specifically for this range, such as the Sigma 10-20mm f/3.5 EX DC HSM, which is excellent. Or the fine little DA 15mm f/4 Limited for extra-compact use. You would have better quality and wider angle, along with far less distortion than possible with a type of zoom lens covering both extra wide angle and short tele range. To extend the tele end of your compact kit, the DA 70mm f/2.4 is superb. Not cheap, but superb. Superbly built, with great imaging quality yet amazingly small. These other lenses do not feature WR, but are otherwise very well built. And it is not necessary to get all at once. You can build your kit in your own time. This is why we have cameras that can change lenses for different purposes.

The DA 18-135mm is a fine all-around zoom lens with a lot of range for events where you'd need to go from wide angle shots then zoom in for an individual closeup without having to change lenses. It is remarkably compact and very good imaging for this type of lens and remarkably, also features WR construction. I have all of these lenses I've mentioned, acquired over time.

And do get an extra battery. They are small, easy to carry and easy to change. I got the generic Watson brand, which has been fine so far.

[aslyfox]

my K 3 was bought in 2016

My K 3 II was bought in 2018

only one small problem with the K 3 II fixed under a third party warranty

________

in case the OP hasn't discovered it yet

this is a useful tool

https://www.pentaxforums.com/lenssearch/


__________________
there are reviews of various lenses, Pentax and third party lenses for Pentax, under " Lenses " above

" in depth reviews " and " user reviews "

and under " Articles " above, there is information that might be of help

___________________________________________

if " experienced " equipment as opposed to new is an option the forum's marketplace under " buy/sell " is a good place to look

and you can " sort " it to show only items from specific countries

The Pentax Marketplace | Buy & Sell Pentax Cameras and Lenses (United States) - PentaxForums.com

______________________________________________

finally in the US the OP might be able to rent equipment for a personal try out before deciding

Information on Businesses that offer cameras and lenses for rent - Page 2 - PentaxForums.com

and LensRental is currently running a special if the equipment rented arrives by March 20th

savings available at LensRental - PentaxForums.com

[rod_grant]

I have the KP and love it. I’ve only had three Pentax dslrs in 16 years - should meet your 4 year criteria.
Just be aware of two things regarding the sealing: WR means weather resistant - not water proof. There are many testimonials of Pentax surviving heavy rain, splashes and dunking, and that is good, but Pentax do not treat water intrusion as a warranty item. The other thing is make sure that, if you do want to rely on a level weather protection, the lens must also be weather resistant.

[ramseybuckeye]

I have and love the KP, I do mostly landscape and nature. I have several lenses, but I use the 20-40, 55-300 PLM, and 15 more than the rest, in that order currently. Both the 20-40 and 55-300 are weather sealed which is a big deal to me. The 20-40 is an excellent short zoom, I feel that limiting the range they have been able to keep excellent image quality. It is also not too large, and the small hood with the lens cap fitting over it is very convenient.

[aslyfox]

. . . Just be aware of two things regarding the sealing: WR means weather resistant - not water proof. There are many testimonials of Pentax surviving heavy rain, splashes and dunking, and that is good, but Pentax do not treat water intrusion as a warranty item. The other thing is make sure that, if you do want to rely on a level weather protection, the lens must also be weather resistant.

yes, Pentax equipment is not waterproof:

AW, WR: Lenses with the AW (All Weather) or WR (Weather Resistant) designations are sealed so that they better withstand use in light rain and blowing dust. AW is the more resistant of the two.

Pentax K-Mount Lenses Explained: The differences between various Pentax lens series

___________________________

stevebrot

About those WR body weather seals...User responsibility and best practice


With a few notable exceptions, most threads on this site that specifically relate to weather seals generally fall into three main groups: reports of failed seals and/or rants about expectation of seal performance and/or Ricoh voiding warranty when water is found inside the camera. The standard responses range from success stories ("seals saved my camera"), sympathy comments, more rant, and suggestions of user (victim?) blame. That last is particularly prominent to the point that I have been thinking that a short treatise on user responsibility may be more kind and ultimately more helpful. Note that this note specifically excludes discussion of lens flange seals and/or use of focus/zoom on a sealed lens. The intent here is focus on the body only.*

Read more at: About those WR body weather seals...User responsibility and best practice - PentaxForums.com

[rogerstg]

I love the thought of taking photos in woods "lovely, dark and deep" (Robert Frost) so grateful for the camera's low light detail.

. . .

Also, in terms of lens, what has been your experience with the 16-50mm f/2.8 ED AL [IF] SDM?
I read reviews and seems good, although not - based on reviews - great.

What do you use/recommend (that won't break my piggy bank savings ?

FWIW, the 16-50 has been my workhorse lens for more than a decade. You'll appreciate the faster aperture when taking shots in the darker woods, not that you need 2.8, but all lenses are better a stopped down one or two stops. It also excels at indoor shooting with ambient light.

RE: reviews and SDM failures, a little perspective is in order. Back in 2007, it and the DA* 50-135 were introduced with a lot of hype and advertising. They were the only game in town for a compete weatherproof system with premium build, complementing the K10D. Everyone wanted them, especially the 16-50. I suspect a ton were sold, and IIRC the street price was pretty high at $900ish back then.

If you read the "independent" reviews carefully, they seem a bit biased regarding value. The user reviews are also biased regarding value, and especially regarding SDM failures. That's fair and to be expected given the price and hype back then, but has lead to excellent values now. SDM failures seem to have been with earlier models, and keeping in mind that so many were likely sold and the nature of internet to endlessly regurgitate problems, it was probably a small percentage, relating to a component production issue that's been long resolved. Regardless, the lens can be converted to screw drive for short money.

I think that a used or refurbished 16-50 would be an excellent value for you. Nice copies can be had for less than half of the street price for new of ~$750ish. That's what I would do if something happened to my copy.