[Oktyabr]

I've had my KP for a few days now and I'm finally getting it all set up the way I would like it. I run back button focus and AE-L assigned to FX1 "RAW". The one thing that is missing is metering mode on a physical button! Yes, I know I can set it as an option available under the "INFO" button screen but I would really like a dedicated button for it. Why isn't this an option for programming the FX buttons? Please make it so in the next firmware update?



Thanks in advance!

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Last edited by Oktyabr; 01-10-2021 at 10:33 AM.

[BigMackCam]

I've had my KP for a few days now and I'm finally getting it all set up the way I would like it. I run back button focus and AE-L assigned to FX1 "RAW". The one thing that is missing is metering mode on a physical button! Yes, I know I can set it as an option available under the "INFO" button screen but I would really like a dedicated button for it. Why isn't this an option for programming the FX buttons? Please make it so in the next firmware update?

You might want to post this in the Product Suggestions & Feedback forum.

That said, it hasn't been Ricoh policy (nor Hoya's before that) to add things like this to firmware. Bug fixes, stability and performance improvements are more typical. Still, there's no harm in asking, I guess - though since the KP is now four years old and the last firmware was released in mid 2019, I doubt you'll see any more updates - except, perhaps, for compatibility with new lenses...

[stevebrot]

The one thing that is missing is metering mode on a physical button!

Smart Function dial under AE.

I would also like AE-L to remain until I either release it, with another press of the assigned button, or turn the camera off, but maybe I just missed a setting somewhere in the menus...

Are you meaning a choice between those three? I don't have access to a KP, but AE Lock on other models stays enabled until either second press, green button press, exponsure mode change, meter off, or power on/off.


Steve

[Oktyabr]

Smart Function dial under AE.

That means taking my eye away from the OVF and fiddling with two, separate dials, of which I generally prefer to leave as ISO. It's almost quicker and easier to assign it under the INFO button and switch it that way, if I'm already breaking my composition work flow with the OVF anyway. A single press of a single button, like on the pro bodies, would be ideal.

Are you meaning a choice between those three? I don't have access to a KP, but AE Lock on other models stays enabled until either second press, green button press, exponsure mode change, meter off, of power on/off.


Steve

Yes, so it operates like my K3. I edited my post because I think I found the setting in the menu: (C)ustom menu, page 1, third line down says "Meter Operating Time". I thought this was specifically for how long it might meter in general use, like BBF with AF.C, but I changed the default setting of 10 seconds to setting #4, "Continue" ("Measures exposure until the shutter is released or the camera is turned off"), which doesn't sound like it should work, but at least the AE-L "star" indicator stays lit now, until I either press the button I've assigned to it or I turn the camera off. More experimentation is needed, but that *seems* to have done the trick!

---------- Post added 01-10-21 at 12:05 PM ----------

You might want to post this in the Product Suggestions & Feedback forum.

That said, it hasn't been Ricoh policy (nor Hoya's before that) to add things like this to firmware. Bug fixes, stability and performance improvements are more typical. Still, there's no harm in asking, I guess - though since the KP is now four years old and the last firmware was released in mid 2019, I doubt you'll see any more updates - except, perhaps, for compatibility with new lenses...

Yeah, I know. The post was more just wishful thinking, like a message in a bottle, that might at least bring up some suggestions from other users.

[stevebrot]

That means taking my eye away from the OVF and fiddling with two, separate dials, of which I generally prefer to leave as ISO. It's almost quicker and easier to assign it under the INFO button and switch it that way, if I'm already breaking my composition work flow with the OVF anyway. A single press of a single button, like on the pro bodies, would be ideal.

For the rare user who switches metering pattern on the fly, that would be ideal. I just tried changing meter pattern on my K-3 with eye to the viewfinder, but found my nose got in the way of my left thumb.

Edit: I am aware of the obvious use case of spot meter for backlit subjects, but go to metered manual (spot) in M mode with green button if I want fine control for that case.


Steve

[Oktyabr]

For the rare user who switches metering pattern on the fly, that would be ideal. I just tried changing meter pattern on my K-3 with eye to the viewfinder, but found my nose got in the way of my left thumb.

Edit: I am aware of the obvious use case of spot meter for backlit subjects, but go to metered manual (spot) in M mode with green button if I want fine control for that case.


Steve

Yeah, it's not easy to do on any of the older bodies, BUT if it was assignable to FX1, on the front of the body, where my thumb usually lingers anyway, it might be quite nice. Or keep FX1 programmed to AE-L and FX2 to mode selection. On the KP that button is approximately where the mode button lives on my K3 but for some reason the smaller body and slightly different ergonomics make it feel like it might be just a little easier to do on the KP.

Such technique is also useful when shooting in daylit snow. Tracking an animal (usually darker than the snow), as it moves from direct light to the shadow of a tree, for a hypothetical instance, might make good use of going from spot to center weighted.

[kypfer]

For the rare user who switches metering pattern on the fly, that would be ideal. ...
Steve

One advantage the K-70 has over the KP … the User modes are on an unlocked wheel adjacent to the shutter button. They can be configured for a limited range of exposure and/or a/f options which can then be switched without taking the camera from my eye … a feature I miss occasionally on my KP

---------- Post added 01-11-21 at 01:23 AM ----------

Such technique is also useful when shooting in daylit snow. Tracking an animal (usually darker than the snow), as it moves from direct light to the shadow of a tree, for a hypothetical instance, might make good use of going from spot to center weighted.

Also sea-birds in flight against a backdrop of usually darker sea … the white on the gulls can be easily over-exposed if not compensated for.