[snappyhoffy]

I note that the Lens Distortion Correction (Menu Camera 6 -Lens Correction) is set to off by default.

In reviewing the old K3 eBook by Yvon Bourque it states that applying these will slow down the camera's processor.

Is it better to apply the automatic corrections (for lenses able to be corrected) - Diffraction Correction, Lateral Chromatic Aberrations Adjustment, Peripheral Illumination Correction and Distortion Correction given that the processor is more 'capable'?

(I am more of a JPG shooter with hope to get into more post processing and have DA* lenses)

[ProfessorBuzz]

Hi Snappyhoffy - it depends on what your are trying to achieve and your post-processing workflow if any.

Any time you ask the camera to modify the image, it takes up processor time and battery juice, on any camera.
Some tasks take more energy and time than others. Vignetting (PIC) boosts the brightness toward the corners and is less CPU intensive that other techniques.

For example, if you are trying to shoot sports, action shots, car racing, lightning storms or birds-in-flight, you need speed for rapid images in succession, and minimal delays. So turn all that stuff off.
If you have software to correct for these issues on your computer, you can leave it off.
However, if you're looking for the best "out of camera" images, then you'll want to take advantage of it.

[snappyhoffy]

Hi Snappyhoffy - it depends on what your are trying to achieve and your post-processing workflow if any.

Any time you ask the camera to modify the image, it takes up processor time and battery juice, on any camera.
Some tasks take more energy and time than others. Vignetting (PIC) boosts the brightness toward the corners and is less CPU intensive that other techniques.

For example, if you are trying to shoot sports, action shots, car racing, lightning storms or birds-in-flight, you need speed for rapid images in succession, and minimal delays. So turn all that stuff off.
If you have software to correct for these issues on your computer, you can leave it off.
However, if you're looking for the best "out of camera" images, then you'll want to take advantage of it.

Thanks for your prompt response.

I am starting to learn to use the Luminar Skylum 4 Software. I think that this has Lens Correction so will check this out.

---------- Post added 05-07-21 at 06:40 AM ----------

Thanks for your prompt response.

I am starting to learn to use the Luminar Skylum 4 Software. I think that this has Lens Correction so will check this out.

I assume the RAW files would stay uncorrected anyway?

[5ks]

Thanks for your prompt response.

I am starting to learn to use the Luminar Skylum 4 Software. I think that this has Lens Correction so will check this out.

---------- Post added 05-07-21 at 06:40 AM ----------


I assume the RAW files would stay uncorrected anyway?

As far as I know, the RAW files stay uncorrected. So, when shooting RAW only, no delay would occur because of the correction ... I suppose so, but am I right?

Unless ... the corrections affect the jpg preview that is included in the RAW file. In that case, it's the same delay although a full-sized JPG is not stored in the card?

[mtkeller]

The lens corrections are applied to the JPEG previews that are included in the raw file. I hadn't thought about the fact that it could be slowing down processing, so now I might just have to turn off those sorts of corrections that I had been doing, since they mainly just make a small difference to the preview that I look at on the rear screen and for a bit in Lightroom while culling images.

[5ks]

The lens corrections are applied to the JPEG previews that are included in the raw file. I hadn't thought about the fact that it could be slowing down processing, so now I might just have to turn off those sorts of corrections that I had been doing, since they mainly just make a small difference to the preview that I look at on the rear screen and for a bit in Lightroom while culling images.

That was an important note - thanks. So the corrections (of lens aberrations or highlight/shadow) make sense only if you want to save the in-camera JPG files to the memory card (in full size, not only as RAW file's preview).