[caliscouser]

Only had a few hours with this camera and don't have any opinion yet on whether there is any problem here or whether it is just different.

However some things that may make it easier and some ideas that could be implemented in firmware.

Easier:
1. Mapping the RAW button to viewfinder light = on. The red lights stay on all the time until you toggle the button again (in AF-C they stay on except when you hit the AF button)
2. Turning off most of the OVF LCD overlays like frames, grids and AF points helps so that only the actual focus points illuminate in red. (easier to see)

Firmware suggestions:
1. Make focus points flash red for a longer time, too quick currently and quicker than the KP
2. The focus point overlay consist of a small square inside a big square. turning both squares on and flashing red would greatly increase visibility
3. In AF-C, if viewfinder light is on by the user, keep it on while AF button is held.
4. Add a new 'high visibility' viewfinder mode that basically implements all of the above to deliver something close to what you get on other models like KP, K-70 (if you want it)

[snappyhoffy]

Only had a few hours with this camera and don't have any opinion yet on whether there is any problem here or whether it is just different.

However some things that may make it easier and some ideas that could be implemented in firmware.

Easier:
1. Mapping the RAW button to viewfinder light = on. The red lights stay on all the time until you toggle the button again (in AF-C they stay on except when you hit the AF button)
2. Turning off most of the OVF LCD overlays like frames, grids and AF points helps so that only the actual focus points illuminate in red. (easier to see)

Firmware suggestions:
1. Make focus points flash red for a longer time, too quick currently and quicker than the KP
2. The focus point overlay consist of a small square inside a big square. turning both squares on and flashing red would greatly increase visibility
3. In AF-C, if viewfinder light is on by the user, keep it on while AF button is held.
4. Add a new 'high visibility' viewfinder mode that basically implements all of the above to deliver something close to what you get on other models like KP, K-70 (if you want it)

I agree. Thanks for comments.

---------- Post added 05-15-21 at 12:45 PM ----------

Does your remapping of the button allow the viewfinder light to stay on after acquiring focus in any mode??

No.. illumination goes off until you remove pressure on shutter release or AF Button and then illuminates again until when shutter or AF is pressed.

[angerdan]

Reading initial reviews of the K-3iii, it appears the optical view finder focus point indicator is a black square compared to a red dot in the previous model. Apparently this black square is difficult to see against a dark background or in poor light.

Looking forward to your opinions

Reminds me of the questions and answers given in the older threads about the K-3 III:
How difficult are K-3 III AF points to see through the viewfinder? - PentaxForums.com
Viewfinder light doesn't light - PentaxForums.com

[c.a.m]

Mapping the RAW button to viewfinder light = on.

On my K-3 Mark III, pressing the AF Mode button illuminates the viewfinder in red. It stays red until any button is pressed. The Viewfinder Light must be enabled in the C4 menu

Please see: How difficult are K-3 III AF points to see through the viewfinder? - PentaxForums.com

Is there an advantage to mapping the RAW button or any other button?

- Craig

[Ishpuini]

Will have to compare the different settings with a receive my K-3III, but I think that if I go the way of configuring a fx button, the lock button would be the most likely candidate since that button is new to me anyway. I don't recall a Pentax APS-C having that button?

[rlmartindale]

K3 III - Wish list and 'bug reports' for future firmware updates / upgrades - PentaxForums.com

[mtkeller]

Will have to compare the different settings with a receive my K-3III, but I think that if I go the way of configuring a fx button, the lock button would be the most likely candidate since that button is new to me anyway. I don't recall a Pentax APS-C having that button?

Can’t comment on other APS-C bodies having it, since I’ve only had the K-50 and K-70, which didn’t even have separate AF and AE-Lock buttons. However, I will say that for something like my sports user mode, I am glad to have the lock button. Before I started using it, I kept bumping either the aperture or the shutter speed, and when you’re there to catch quick moments, you don’t have time to fret over if you accidentally bumped one of the e-dials. (That said, I imagine I might program it to do some other function in other user modes.)

[caliscouser]

On my K-3 Mark III, pressing the AF Mode button illuminates the viewfinder in red. It stays red until any button is pressed.Is there an advantage to mapping the RAW button or any other button?

Yes, if it is mapped to another button the viewfinder light stays on after you hit another button. Whereas hitting the AF Mode button the viewfinder light goes off after hitting another button.

[c.a.m]

Yes, if it is mapped to another button the viewfinder light stays on after you hit another button.

That's a good point to know. Thanks!

- Craig

[Qwntm]

Only had a few hours with this camera and don't have any opinion yet on whether there is any problem here or whether it is just different.

However some things that may make it easier and some ideas that could be implemented in firmware.

Easier:
1. Mapping the RAW button to viewfinder light = on. The red lights stay on all the time until you toggle the button again (in AF-C they stay on except when you hit the AF button)
2. Turning off most of the OVF LCD overlays like frames, grids and AF points helps so that only the actual focus points illuminate in red. (easier to see)

Firmware suggestions:
1. Make focus points flash red for a longer time, too quick currently and quicker than the KP
2. The focus point overlay consist of a small square inside a big square. turning both squares on and flashing red would greatly increase visibility
3. In AF-C, if viewfinder light is on by the user, keep it on while AF button is held.
4. Add a new 'high visibility' viewfinder mode that basically implements all of the above to deliver something close to what you get on other models like KP, K-70 (if you want it)

This all makes a lot of sense. The raw button is useless for me, and it's in the right "neighborhood" ie where the AF stuff is.

I already turned off all the other stuff to make it easier to se the points that's a good tip.

The K1m2 points/light seems to light for longer and are clearer. So there are things they could do in firmware and probably will to make it better. BUT, it's really not much of a problem if at all, in use so far.

[angerdan]

Of course the viewfinde can be illuminated:
K-3 iii tips and tricks (let's all contribute) - PentaxForums.com

You Tube

You Tube

[Kobie]

Of course the viewfinde can be illuminated:
K-3 iii tips and tricks (let's all contribute) - PentaxForums.com

Pentax K-3 III: Viewfinder Focus Points - YouTube

Not the same as illuminating the focus point(s).
Also, doesn't work in AF.C.
The overlayed info is LCD, they don't light up how the older LEDs did. And nothing will change that.

[dicki]

yes !

[angerdan]

Not the same as illuminating the focus point(s).
The overlayed info is LCD, they don't light up how the older LEDs did. And nothing will change that.

The video shows red illumination.
How do you explain red light inside the LCD overlay, when you claim they don't light up ?

[licht96]

@angerdan: Kobie write “how” the older LEDs did.

As wrote severely times before: the old system has the advantage, that for every AF point there was a dedicated LED. That also shows you in AFC where the camera was focusing, because it was lit!



The new LCD screen is a transparent part. Like an LCD Watch it can show dedicated black (!) information. The LCD panel works like an light guide with LEDs incoupling from the side (don´t know how much they integrated, but when you make it good, only one would be necessary).

When the LCD would be a perfect piece of glass, you wouldn’t notice when the red LED would be lit. You would still see through a perfect piece of glass with now outcoupling of Red light in direction of your eye.

But due to the fact, that it has always some kind of roughness, you will notice, that the glass is lit by the LED….and what is more important: the black LCD parts now react as a disturbance/error/interference/roughness: it couples red light out of the glass in your eye and you see the dark parts now more or less red illuminated….but that is in comparison to the old system passive.

It´s also much darker in comparison. And the more things you add on the LCD – especially the Crop frame … you get for example less for the AF point right in the middle because a bigger amount of light was outcoupling before reaching the center AF point.

A wish - also mentioned before - would be a constant light or flashing while in AFC (when some people don´t like it, it should be able to turn it off). I saw it on other brands in that way it it was helpful.