???? Do you have a link to this so that I can read more about it?

Here is a thread I started once upon a time.

K-1 with DFA*70-200 or DFA150-450 Bad connection - PentaxForums.com


I had problems with lost contact with my K-1 and all my gear was sent to Japan to be tested. There are a few threads on the matter...

[Rikoo Lah]

Hello everyone,

Thanks to all of you for answering me really fast!

I think I didn't describe well my issue :

It's not that I had 20 pictures out of focus because yeah with thousands of pictures it would be amazing!!!

What I wanted to say is that sometimes, the autofocus button is not responding when I'm pressing it so I need to turn the camera off and on again.
It did so with the DA* 50-135mm f2.8 and the DA 18-135mm f3.5/5.6 for sure but to be honest I don't remember if it did so with my other lenses...

A few days ago I noticee an other issue :

Right now I taking pictures without flash in hard condition like backlight or whith really harsh light aroud mid-day so I need to overexpose to have my subject as weel-expose as possible without burning the background (I put the shadow correction on 'high" and turned on the "highlight correction" and ply with the custom image to add more contrast ) since I am shooting in JPEG for my client.
Doing so, sometimes I am using live view, to control my exposure and sometimes I am seeing a white screen because the camera set the ISO really high like 12800 in a sunny day. I switch to video mode and I am back to my normal exposure...

I have the feeling that something is wrong with my camera these days.

I have the latest update and nothing happened to my camera

Do you have any idea ?

Thank you again everyone

[Kobie]

Hello everyone,

Thanks to all of you for answering me really fast!

I think I didn't describe well my issue :

It's not that I had 20 pictures out of focus because yeah with thousands of pictures it would be amazing!!!

What I wanted to say is that sometimes, the autofocus button is not responding when I'm pressing it so I need to turn the camera off and on again.
It did so with the DA* 50-135mm f2.8 and the DA 18-135mm f3.5/5.6 for sure but to be honest I don't remember if it did so with my other lenses...

A few days ago I noticee an other issue :

Right now I taking pictures without flash in hard condition like backlight or whith really harsh light aroud mid-day so I need to overexpose to have my subject as weel-expose as possible without burning the background (I put the shadow correction on 'high" and turned on the "highlight correction" and ply with the custom image to add more contrast ) since I am shooting in JPEG for my client.
Doing so, sometimes I am using live view, to control my exposure and sometimes I am seeing a white screen because the camera set the ISO really high like 12800 in a sunny day. I switch to video mode and I am back to my normal exposure...

I have the feeling that something is wrong with my camera these days.

I have the latest update and nothing happened to my camera

Do you have any idea ?

Thank you again everyone

What metering mode did you have set?
Do you have link exposure to AF point active?
What do you have set for ISO switching speed and base shutter speed?

[Jonathan Mac]

The only time this has ever happened to me (other than when I forget I've left it on manual focus) has been with the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8, which has an in-lens focus motor. Cleaning the contacts solved the problem.

[reh321]

Don't even use my K-3iii anymore. Went back to the KP if I have to shoot Pentax

I’m surprised to hear that. My KP misses some shots of speeding trains, because I forget sometimes that it needs a few seconds ‘on target’ to autofocus; my understanding was that the K-3iii is an improvement.

[Larrymc]

Thanks,

This seems to be like the issue I have because it's not that the focus is not on my subject lke other people think ( I must have describe the issue in the wrong way) but more that the camera won't focus at all. The knob is not responding so I need to turn it off and on again!

I will clean my contacts

Thanks again

Are you focusing with the shutter button or the AF (back) button? Just curious.

[kypfer]

The intermittent a/f lockup issue does seem to be a "feature" with some cameras
In my experience, the various firmware updates have gone some way to minimising the issue.
Hopefully today's v1.50 firmware update Latest PENTAX K-3 Mark III Firmware Update : Software Downloads | RICOH IMAGING will further address the problem.

[Rikoo Lah]

What metering mode did you have set?
Do you have link exposure to AF point active?
What do you have set for ISO switching speed and base shutter speed?

Hello,

I'm using multi-segment metering
The "Link AE to AF focus point" is unabled
For the ISO sensitivity settings, I can only change the upper and lower limit. The three other settings below are unabled not matter which exposure mode is selected...

I created a User mode, with TAv exposure mode, Hilight correction ON and Shadow correction HIGH
Shooting at 1/1000s , f8 and ISO is always between 200 to 1000 depending of the weather

Thank you so much

---------- Post added 06-23-22 at 11:57 PM ----------

Are you focusing with the shutter button or the AF (back) button? Just curious.

Yes I am

[Kobie]

Hello,

I'm using multi-segment metering
The "Link AE to AF focus point" is unabled
For the ISO sensitivity settings, I can only change the upper and lower limit. The three other settings below are unabled not matter which exposure mode is selected...

I created a User mode, with TAv exposure mode, Hilight correction ON and Shadow correction HIGH
Shooting at 1/1000s , f8 and ISO is always between 200 to 1000 depending of the weather

I would set the ISO limit to at least 6400 ISO, set the camera to P mode and see if the issue remains, then use Tv and see if it still refuses to focus. It could be that there isn't enough light getting to the sensor for some reason. It shouldn't be as the lens should be wide open while focusing, but to rule everything out, I would start there.

[gatorguy]

I mentioned this confusing issue in another thread this morning:
Last evening during a photoshoot I was using my Sigma Art 35. Great lens I've enjoyed having in the bag. A few months ago I had put it on the Sigma dock and fine-tuned it, and the results have been very good, only the occasional missed focus since, But last evening there were way too many very slightly front-focused captures. I did try to do a quick on-the-spot fine focus adjustment which was no help at all. It was just gonna misfocus , perhaps due to the really unusual lighting situation at the event. Just guessing, but that light wasn't helping. Out of pure frustration I went into Green mode, Auto.

That inconsistent focus suddenly went perfect, sharp and spot-on every single shot. I checked again when I got home by taking some photos of medicine bottle instructions, tiny tiny type. In my typical TAv settings and in subdued light the focus was sometimes soft, but perhaps no more often than I've been accustomed to. In general they were what I expected. But in auto every shot was pin-sharp under the same light. I repeated it several times just to be sure. Auto was proving to make a positive difference in focus.

So what's going on?

[C_Jones]

You may want to stay in TAV mode and set upper limit ISO to something like 3200. If you are shooting at 1000 shutter speed you are going to most likely expect a higher ISO automatically. If you reduce the shutter speed to something lower it will accommodate a lower ISO result for most likely better results. I use TAV when I am on the go and it works very well in a lot of conditions. I also resort to Manual mode when enough time is available, when I use flash on occasion, and when I do longer exposures.

[gatorguy]

You may want to stay in TAV mode and set upper limit ISO to something like 3200. .

On his K3III his upper ISO should go to 6400. I personally have mine set to 12800, and will push it to a very recoverable 25600 if I'm on an early morning hike and expect birding action.

The low-light performance and dynamic range of the K3III is incredible.

[Rikoo Lah]

On his K3III his upper ISO should go to 6400. I personally have mine set to 12800, and will push it to a very recoverable 25600 if I'm on an early morning hike and expect birding action.

The low-light performance and dynamic range of the K3III is incredible.

Hi,

My upper ISO is set to 20 000!
But the thing is I am shooting during sunny days high up on mountains so my ISO nerver go higher than 1250 and when the sky is very cloudy I shoot at F5.6 or lower (DA 18-135mm) depending on the aperture and the ISO can go around 2000 or higher. But if the ISO is too high I am not shooting anymore because it means that my subject (bikers, cyclists etc...) won't buy my pictures because the landscapes would be just fog...

Thanks guys!

ps: Why can't I change the "min shutter speed op", "ISO auto with min speed" and "minimum shutter speed" inside the ISO sensitivity settings ?

---------- Post added 06-24-22 at 10:56 PM ----------

I mentioned this confusing issue in another thread this morning:
Last evening during a photoshoot I was using my Sigma Art 35. Great lens I've enjoyed having in the bag. A few months ago I had put it on the Sigma dock and fine-tuned it, and the results have been very good, only the occasional missed focus since, But last evening there were way too many very slightly front-focused captures. I did try to do a quick on-the-spot fine focus adjustment which was no help at all. It was just gonna misfocus , perhaps due to the really unusual lighting situation at the event. Just guessing, but that light wasn't helping. Out of pure frustration I went into Green mode, Auto.

That inconsistent focus suddenly went perfect, sharp and spot-on every single shot. I checked again when I got home by taking some photos of medicine bottle instructions, tiny tiny type. In my typical TAv settings and in subdued light the focus was sometimes soft, but perhaps no more often than I've been accustomed to. In general they were what I expected. But in auto every shot was pin-sharp under the same light. I repeated it several times just to be sure. Auto was proving to make a positive difference in focus.

So what's going on?

This is crazy!!!

I don't want to shoot in P mode to have the sharpest pictures with a body that cost me 2000€

Maybe it will be fixed with a later firmware version ?

I didn't know that the Sigma Art series were compatible with Pentaxn so thank you for that

[C_Jones]

I tend to settle for what is natural as far as light and not use correction. Sometimes I will focus on or take a shot of on an intermediately lit part of the scene I am shooting or the subject, read the settings that were used successfully, and apply or adjust them to the shots in Manual mode after that to retain consistency. It may or may not apply to your situation, but for me it does give me more control over the outcome of the shots on some occasions. You could also resort to flash to have more lighting tool options in some circumstances.

[Jonathan Mac]

There's no way that there should be a sharpness difference simply from changing exposure modes. Check for other differences - shooting environment, shutter speeds, aperture etc - that might be caused by the change of exposure mode.