[snappyhoffy]

Now that we have the User Mode displayed in the INFO screen (latest FW 1.60) it now tempts me to use this feature more.

Maybe it would be good to see how other users have set up there User Modes as starting point. e.g. Fast Sport, Landscape, Portraits etc..

[kypfer]

My "default" configuration, on those cameras that have the option, has become 1/1500 @ f/8 TAv.
Where I can, I leave the camera Mode Dial set to "my" User Mode so I know, when I switch it on, where it's going to be.
From here I can wriggle my e-dials for a more "suitable" setting as appropriate, if I've got the time, but at least I'll not miss a shot if I'm in a rush to catch a subject in a hurry
Other configurations are available … macro, infra-red, monochrome, street, pseudo-Katen etc. … these are all set up to suit me as a primarily JPG shooter, often with specific lenses in mind.
They'd possibly need to be tweaked to suit personal preferences, so I'll not clutter the post with my choices, but leave them as ideas for anyone who's interested
A point to consider when using User Modes :- If, having diverted from your original settings for whatever reason, there's no need to re-adjust all the settings to revert to your preferred starting point … just switch off and back on again
Enjoy!

[snappyhoffy]

A point to consider when using User Modes :- If, having diverted from your original settings for whatever reason, there's no need to re-adjust all the settings to revert to your preferred starting point … just switch off and back on again
Enjoy!

Clever! Nice tip.

[bspn]

Clever! Nice tip.

i have two user modes on both the K3iii and K1 set to my BIF settings, one with SR on, and one with Sr off which I call 'bif tripod'. That helps me remember to not use SR when I've got the camera on a tripod. I am also experimenting with the best settings when I'm using the DA560 and using a User Mode for that. I was pleased Ricoh added a User Mode selected on the display, and don't really mind that is isn't persistent and disappears after a few seconds. I only look at it when changing modes anyway.

[K-Three]

Both kypfer and bspn have mentioned what I use and why, I typically don't shoot at my User settings, only use them as starting points.

I know I can go to my User1, and turn the camera on, and it will have a decent starting point for most situations.
If conditions warrant, I will adjust SS,ƒ and iso, others as needed. For really fussy settings I usually shift into manual. But I try to remember to put the camera into User1 when I'm done and turn it off.

Then I don't have to worry about seeing Big Foot, turning the camera on and punching the shutter, only to find out it's set for 10-second exposure after a 12-second timer!

[snappyhoffy]

i have two user modes on both the K3iii and K1 set to my BIF settings, one with SR on, and one with Sr off which I call 'bif tripod'.

Thanks but what are the settings you use for both these BIF modes..?

[kypfer]

Thanks but what are the settings you use for both these BIF modes..?

Don't get too hung up on exact settings … these can depend on the lens in use, time of day, even environment … leafy woodland is likely to be very different from sunny beach, and that's just for "birds in flight"
There's still a balance to be achieved between blur from camera shake, blur from subject movement and depth of field … to a degree these will be defined by your panning technique.
Personally, I analysed several months worth of "acceptable" exposures to come up with my preferred starting point … you may want/need different figures depending on your technique, your subjects and your "sensitivity" to noise from high ISO settings.
Good luck

[bspn]

Don't get too hung up on exact settings … these can depend on the lens in use, time of day, even environment … leafy woodland is likely to be very different from sunny beach, and that's just for "birds in flight"
There's still a balance to be achieved between blur from camera shake, blur from subject movement and depth of field … to a degree these will be defined by your panning technique.
Personally, I analysed several months worth of "acceptable" exposures to come up with my preferred starting point … you may want/need different figures depending on your technique, your subjects and your "sensitivity" to noise from high ISO settings.
Good luck

I totally agree with Kypfer. The key settings I've found best for capturing big birds, like raptors and vultures, include TAv mode, spot focus and AF/s. I am experimenting with AF/c but seem to get more keepers with AF/s. My user modes are set with 1/2000 sec shutter speed which I vary as needed. In TAv ISO floats.

[Pete R]

Trying to answer what I think the original question was, this is what I currently have set. (Yes, the User Modes are just starting points as everyone else says, but these are my starting points).

I have U1 set for wildlife: AF.C, ISO auto up to 8000, Program Mode and priority for speed (so lens wide open), continuous shooting - medium, AF Zone Select, AE linked to AF spot, SR on, and this is the only time for some years that I have shutter-button focussing turned on. Used with OVF.

I mostly do landscape and some travel, so that dominates the other four settings:
U2 is hand-held "landscape": Aperture Priority mode, f5.6 to start, single shot, ISO auto 100 to 400, AF.S, centre single spot AF, default exposure, multi-segment AE, SR on, back-button focus. Used with OVF.
U3 is as above, but with 2-exposure bracketing to cope with bright sky in the scene (second shot is -1.3 or -1.7 EV).
U4 is single-shot tripod landscape, so ISO now fixed at 100, aperture at f11, SR off, IR Remote on, otherwise as U2. Used with mixture of OVF and Live View and touch-screen focus point.
U5 is as U4 except bracketed 3 shots currently at +0.3, -1 and -2.3 EV (I vary this often).

I over-ride aperture often, and quite often tweak exposure comp in all the above modes.
I'm still experimenting what to put in the Smart Function settings, but I suspect that having different Smart Functions set for different User Modes will prove too much for my small brain, so I'm likely to settle on being able to switch between histogram and focus peaking for Live View plus exposure comp for OVF.

Since learning more about Box 6-10 from Kobie in another thread, I've dabbled with further settings but haven't fixed on them yet. The one I might use is one for Astro, but as Bulb Mode is set with the defaults for that anyway (Astro Mode 3, high auto ISO, pre-set timed exposure, etc) I'm not sure there's any point. Likewise, I have Program Mode set a bit like U1 and use it for moving grandchildren pics.

I'd be pleased to read comments and recommendations on the above.

[kypfer]

I'm still experimenting what to put in the Smart Function settings, but I suspect that having different Smart Functions set for different User Modes will prove too much for my small brain, so I'm likely to settle on being able to switch between histogram and focus peaking for Live View plus exposure comp for OVF.

I don't think you can have a separate set of Smart Functions for each User Mode.
I did some basic tests a little while back and the Smart Functions remained unchanged, irrespective of User Mode, but that may change in a firmware update.
Each User Mode can remember whatever settings you choose when you save it, so will always start up like that, but if, for instance, you have a Smart Function set to AFC-Multi, AFC-Spot and AFS-Spot, then choose to save your User Mode with AFC-Zone, your User Mode will always start up in AFC-Zone, but moving the SFn wheel will "lose" this AFC-Zone choice and only present you with your pre-saved SFn settings and you'll have to go back to your Control Panel or Menus to re-choose AFC-Zone.
All good fun … some days I find it simply relaxing to put a manual lens on one of my *istD cameras and go "back to basics" without having to worry if I've made all the right choices

[snappyhoffy]

Trying to answer what I think the original question was, this is what I currently have set. (Yes, the User Modes are just starting points as everyone else says, but these are my starting points).
.

Perfect, exactly what I needed!

[snappyhoffy]

I have Program Mode set a bit like U1 and use it for moving grandchildren pics.

I'd be pleased to read comments and recommendations on the above.

I bet that needs a fast shutter speed and panning!!

[Paul_R_H]

I often have to shoot moving cars.

U1 is 'cornering', when they approach or recede around a curve.
It's TAv mode with shutter 1/1000 and aperture f/8. The third dial is user AF, with AF-C and AF-hold off, select point centre 5 with small expansion
Back-button focus
Metering is matrix, SR is on
Drive is continuous medium (I find this gets more in-focus)

U2 is 'panning'.
Again TAv, 1/90 shutter f/8. User AF is centre five points no expansion, AF hold level 1
Back-button focus
Metering is matrix, SR is panning mode
Drive is continuous high

U3 is for portraits.
Av mode, ISO200 f/4. AF auto select middle-sized grid, AF-C, AF hold level 1
Metering is matrix, SR is on
Back-button focus
Drive is single shot

U4 is blank at the moment

U5 is for when I hand the camera over to someone so I can be in the picture, so it has to work without my explaining.
Program mode auto ISO
Critical difference for this one: shutter-button focus not back-button
AF is AF-S with full auto selection among all points
Metering is matrix, SR is on
Drive is single shot

Best

Paul