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11-28-2006, 11:48 AM   #1
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Pentax Hotshoe Adapter F pinout

Hi,

Could some kind soul who has a Hot Shoe Adapter F tell me the pinouts to the 5 pin socket?

I've homebrewed a plug for the flash and fabricated a hotshoe, now just need to know what pins go where.

I'll post my method once it's complete and working correctly.

Thanks,

Tim

12-05-2006, 07:31 AM   #2
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I will try to do so tonight.
thanks
barondla
12-05-2006, 03:51 PM   #3
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I would very much appreciate it!

Tim
12-05-2006, 05:51 PM   #4
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Pentax flash P-ttl pins

Here they are. Hope this helps. Please post shot of finished project if possible.
thanks
barondla

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12-05-2006, 05:56 PM   #5
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description on diagram should read...

Flash shoe rail (ground) is hooked to #1 pin and outer Din collar. Couldn't edit type in diagram.
thanks
barondla
12-06-2006, 05:59 AM   #6
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Thank you so much!

I'll have the project complete this weekend and post the results here first since I got a response from here.

Tim
12-10-2006, 08:15 AM   #7
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Having a problem making a reliable hotshoe.

I can get the flash to fire but there is no zoom or P-TTL.

Works fine in Auto and Manual mode.

Let me get the photos together and I'll post later today.

Tim
12-11-2006, 06:39 AM   #8
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OK, here are the results. I could still not get P-TTL or zoom to work and I assume it's because the hotshoe contacts are not aligned correctly.















12-11-2006, 07:09 AM   #9
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All the usual disclaimers apply. Try this at your own risk. I am not liable for any damage you do to your self, camera, or flash.

One word of caution I will give you as it happened to me. Do NOT fire your flash when it is face down on a flat surface. It will fire at full power (unless in manual mode and dialed down) and scorch the surface it is on (a swede shoe in my case) and melt the flash housing enough to stink like burnt plastic. I got lucky and my flash still works 100%, but I write this so someone won't lay the flash on their leg and fire it. We're talking 3rd degree burns here.

OK, one more word of caution here, there is the potential for 300VDC on the hotshoe contacts (from the flash, not the camera) so don't go holding the hotshoe connector in your hand when the flash in on, it may fire accidental. It won't kill you (much) but it will feel like it did. And no, it didn't happen to me.

The idea for me was to make a Sync Cable out of parts I had on hand. It would not be economically feasible to purchase all these items separately just to make a cable.

I wanted the ability to use varying lengths of cable so I opted for multiple lengths of CAT5 cable with RJ45 couplers at each end.

The roll of copper cable is enamel wire for wrapping coils. I got a 3 pack of different gauges at radio shack for a radio I was building. You have to scrape the enamel off the plug end so it will make contact with the flash socket. The end that fits in the RJ45 connector you don't need or want to scrape.

The pen I used was from a pack I bought at walmart one day. They just happened to be about the right size to fit into the flash. They were a little loose so I found a piece of vinyl tubing that I scavenged from an old computer UPS and it makes a nice snug fit into the flash socket. I used silicon sealant inside the pen tube to hold the wires in place. I used cooking spray (PAM) on a cotton swab to lubricate the flash socket with the homemage plug in place while the sealant dried overnight). It wiped off easily and no sealant stuck to the flash. You will have to prop the cable while it's drying so it won't sag and misalign the pins.

The PC board is just a universal type. Hold it with some needle nose pliers along the 6th row and you can snap it by hand very easy. I soldered blobs of solder where I thought they would make contact and filed them down so they fit into the camera hotshoe without tearing it up. If all you want is a manual sync cable and you have a standard hotshoe adapter available, use it instead and save yourself the headache.

Again, unless you have the majority of these items laying around already, it's probably not feasible to make your own cable. I'm just broke and can't afford to lay out $100 for a cable and hotshoe adapter. Id rather spend another $100 and buy an AF360.

Hope this helps someone out, just be careful. Saving a $100 is not worth emergency room bills or damaging $1000 in camera equipment.

Tim
01-13-2007, 05:18 AM   #10
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Absolutely Smashing man, thanks

You wouldnt happen to know what all those little pins do?
Two reasons im asking

I have the Pentax K110D, and it unfortunately lacks a low light auto focus assist light, I was hoping the proto for triggerintg the light wasnt too complex, but i cant seem to revers engeneer it with my little multimeter :P

Second, While the the flash I have (Pent. AF500FTZ) supports wireless slave, you still have to use the internal flash to trigger it, and it doesnt get TTL
If i can get the pins that trigger the flash, i can send them wirelessly to the flash with a rf transmitter. While it wont have TTL (unless that is a rather simple pin trigger) it will still not need that silly flash to go off as well

Hope someone know what the do
Thanks
Mothman
01-17-2007, 09:45 PM   #11
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Humm, I wonder if I could make a PC cord to the flash (and use it with a pocketwizard) instead of having to use a PC hotshoe adapter thing.
What I am wondering is this, How to just get the flash to fire, and use the built in FP5 cord conector as the "outlet" to plug into.
Any ideas?
10-16-2008, 06:13 AM   #12
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Sorry to dredge up an old thread, but I too would really like to know the pin schematic for the K10D. I'd really like to make a device that can communicate with the camera on prefocus.
10-19-2008, 07:14 AM   #13
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I'm working on a similar AF assist.

here's the pin configuration
Flash Systems Evolution, Features and Operation

The digital pin produces a seemingly voltage of 3.9V when AF is pressed. In reality it's a digital signal with a protocol not known to me. It's used to communicate between body and flash.

The main problem I have is finding a reliable way to make a good electrical connection between the body contacts and the custom PCB which slides into the hot shoe. Basically there should be some spring to push the pin to the body contacts.

Any ideas?
10-19-2008, 08:36 AM   #14
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Here is a possible solution. Find a Pentax flash that has a replaceable PPTL hotshoe. Purchase the part and use it a a base for your assist lamp. This would solve the contact issue very well. Why reinvent the wheel, if you can buy it off the shelf.

Dave

QuoteOriginally posted by esepepe Quote
I'm working on a similar AF assist.

here's the pin configuration
Flash Systems Evolution, Features and Operation

The digital pin produces a seemingly voltage of 3.9V when AF is pressed. In reality it's a digital signal with a protocol not known to me. It's used to communicate between body and flash.

The main problem I have is finding a reliable way to make a good electrical connection between the body contacts and the custom PCB which slides into the hot shoe. Basically there should be some spring to push the pin to the body contacts.

Any ideas?
11-25-2008, 08:20 AM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by esepepe Quote
I'm working on a similar AF assist.

here's the pin configuration
Flash Systems Evolution, Features and Operation

The digital pin produces a seemingly voltage of 3.9V when AF is pressed. In reality it's a digital signal with a protocol not known to me. It's used to communicate between body and flash.

The main problem I have is finding a reliable way to make a good electrical connection between the body contacts and the custom PCB which slides into the hot shoe. Basically there should be some spring to push the pin to the body contacts.

Any ideas?

Just wondering how you got on with this project, I was looking at using a laser with filter to autofocus, but to switch this on via a ttl switch linked to the digital pin on the hot shoe.

I quickly put a meter over the hotshoe digital pin and found that it is triggered via the AF. However it seems to only trigger once. Does anyone know if it requires any of the other pins to be connected so that it resets. Or is this all done via the protocol that it transmits?

Cheers

Dan
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