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08-05-2010, 10:31 AM   #1
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triggering a wall lamp with pentax d20

i want to take a photo such that when i pull the trigger on the camera a desk lamp will light up only while the shutter is open.

08-05-2010, 12:31 PM   #2
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I think that a do-it-yourself solution would be the easiest option here. You'd have to make some sort of contraption that flips the switch when a sensor detects a current in the x sync cable.

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08-05-2010, 01:15 PM   #3
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Two options:

A. Get motion sensors for both the lamp and the camera. Trigger both with the same motion.

B. Plug the lamp into a socket controlled by a wall switch. Flick the wall switch when you trip the shutter.


Can I ask what the purpose of this is?
08-05-2010, 02:33 PM   #4
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Replace the bulb with a ACS Adorama AC Slave Flash, $19.


Thank you
Russell

08-06-2010, 05:51 AM   #5
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because i'd like to play around with using $10 500w worklamps as strobes for field shooting at dusk.

and i'd like to do some random shots, where in a completely dark room people do crazy stuff and then the camera captures a singular motion... and i dont want to use a regular flash.

and just because im curious about such a trigger.
08-06-2010, 09:23 AM   #6
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A strobe is effectively an electrical spark - nearly instantaneous. A tungsten light is a resistive element like a stove coil. It heats up to it's brightest, then cools down. With a typical shutter speed, the camera will have taken the picture before the bulbs have lit. With a longer shutter speed, the light itself will not freeze motion. I can see where experimenting with the latter might provide some interesting effects with a long shutter, and as such might be worthwhile, but simply, it will not function the way a flash does.

Triggering the tungsten light from the sync signal, you would have to use a time delay relay and a longer shutter speed.
08-06-2010, 05:45 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by ravenxbishop Quote
and i'd like to do some random shots, where in a completely dark room people do crazy stuff and then the camera captures a singular motion... and i dont want to use a regular flash.
Get an IR filter and a Sunpak Nocta flash. Then you can do exactly what you describe, and no one in the room will be able to tell.

If you look up Weegee, he did exactly this.

08-06-2010, 10:20 PM   #8
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no offense to anyone with great ideas.

i appreciate it. but what i want to do is ... exactly what i described. . . trigger power to a wall type plug from my camera trigger.

and while these ideas seem really neat... we dont learn new moves by dancing in the same circle.

seriously no offense meant at all... i'm just hoping someone has a creative idea for making the power plug on a wall trigger power to a circuit in response to my camera's shutter being opened.

i seriously have like 20 things i'd like to do with it... the fact that the tungsten bulb wont be warm wont really effect the creative process here.

does anyone have any ideas for energizing an AC circuit via the shutter release?

oh i'd also love to be able to make a wall socket turn OFF while the shutter is open too.
08-06-2010, 10:22 PM   #9
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i'm thinking it may have to involve one of those wall units with a remote.... and a remote flash unit wired to the same frequency or energizing the circuit....
08-06-2010, 10:42 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by ravenxbishop Quote
the fact that the tungsten bulb wont be warm wont really effect the creative process here.
Definitely a Dilbert moment.

Thank you
Russell
08-07-2010, 12:05 AM   #11
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Get one of these:

Zigview R - Motion Sensor Shutter Release

Sounds like you can set the sensitivity of the motion detection system. And instead of turning on the light when shutter is releases, the opposite happens - the shutter is released when the light turns on.

Or if you really want to get high tech, get a Home Automation System that allows control from a computer. Do the same with the camera and fire both from a laptop.

Please share you creativity when you're ready!
08-07-2010, 11:33 AM   #12
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@russel sorry that you dont understand the process, and that i dont want to explain it. but you dont have to go about being insulting. the issue you see may very well generate the effect i desire.

anyhow. you clearly dont have any answer. so i guess you simply wanted the last word on what you wrongly perceive to be a fight.

feel free to continue to snark. its less than impressive.

@johnmflores NOT a bad idea. its actually a really cool one. but its not going to do what i want. although i'll be using your idea for sure. thanks.
08-24-2010, 07:25 PM   #13
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@OP,
Perhaps you don't like the answers you've received because you didn't explain clearly what you want. Whatever. Here's something you can try if you have a soldering gun and a brave heart. Don't blame me if you brick your camera.

A common signal connector is the sub-mini (2.5mm) plug+jack system. If you have a wired remote for your K20D, that has a sub-mini plug. The socket on the camera is a sub-mini jack. Here is an article on how to make a wired remote. Read it. Practice it.

Buy a cheap (dollar store) set of earphones or earbuds with a stereo sub-mini plug. Get a DPST (double-pole single-throw) toggle switch, a power relay with a low-voltage trigger and line-current contacts, and a battery holder. Wire the cable-and-plug to one side of the DPST switch. Wire the battery holder and relay in series on the other side of the switch. Insert a battery. Now, when you toggle the switch, both the shutter and the relay activate at the same time.

Wire the hot side of the relay to line-current plug and socket. Plug the lamp into the socket. Plug the plug into the wall outlet. Set the camera to B(ulb) mode. Now, when you toggle the switch on, the shutter opens and the lamp lights up. Toggle it off, and the shutter closes and the lamp shuts off. Voila!

As mentioned above, lamps take awhile to reach full intensity. The above setup requires you to toggle the switch on and off to both open and close the shutter. Depending on how fast your fingers move, you'll probably get at least a 1/2 second exposure. Images will probably be blurry. You could replace the toggle switch with a DPST-MC (momentary contact) pushbutton -- push to switch on, release to switch off.

If you haven't soldered circuitry before, ignore all the above. If you have questions about the parts and circuits, don't ask me -- check at your local Radio Shack or other component shop. Good luck. And lighten up.
08-24-2010, 07:53 PM   #14
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I like Ricos way, but I like beer. (best programming language is soldier&wire)
Seen this thing on the net.
had link dont know what happened, if it or high speed photography is googled
you'll get an ideal what its capable of, would be good fit for O.P.'s app
Still have to interface I/O, as Rico and others indicate, this provides equipment protection.
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Last edited by BillM; 08-25-2010 at 09:33 PM.
08-25-2010, 06:44 AM   #15
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rio that seems to be exactly what i asked for. thank you.
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