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08-31-2010, 07:33 PM   #1
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Is a Pentax Digital Spotmeter worth it?

I've been reading a lot about better pictures and have seen many recommendations for and against spotmeters. The arguments against say it is no longer necessary because the camera handles the metering fairly well and/or one can simply take best guess estimates and adjust after viewing the shot. The arguments for (which I'm leaning towards) is that the in-camera meter creates a 'best estimate' that can wash out colors or move whites/blacks to greys.

I am wondering this because I do a lot of landscape and variable light photography. I've had a lot of pictures with unimpressive colors, over/under exposed portions, etc. I've seen this minimize by using a part of the argument against a spotmeter (I take a picture with best guess based upon the internal camera sensors, then adjust settings after reviewing the shot). Since many of my pictures have only one shot possible (I think of a tiger in India stalking me that I got the shot, but it was a crappy shot...) I'd like to make the most of that shot.

As such, is it worthwhile to purchase a Pentax Digital (or Analog for that matter) Spotmeter? I'd love the insight from experience since I have none in this area.

08-31-2010, 08:10 PM   #2
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You have to be pretty good at metering and estimating exposure compensation to use a spot meter. And if you have that ability, you do not need a spot meter.
08-31-2010, 08:17 PM   #3
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Just learn to use the camera spot meter.
08-31-2010, 09:04 PM   #4
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Off topic...

This is a good a place to point out that although we have similar avatars, wlachan and I have never met :-)

Also, in my shot, there was dew on the grass making it look whitish...

Resume thread...

08-31-2010, 10:30 PM   #5
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The Pentax digital spotmeter is very easy to use - much simpler than some of the modern light meters. Some of the digital spotmeters have been converted to work even easier with the zone system (basically a sticker with the zones has been attached to the barrel with the exposure rings).

A spotmeter really only makes sense in connection with the zone system so if you're willing to go that route this is a good place to start reading:

Zone System

The easier alternative is bracketing all your exposures and either picking "the best", or sandwiching two or three together and manually masking so that you get more dynamic range, or use the bracketed set to create an HDR image using Photoshop or another application which automate that task.
09-01-2010, 01:52 PM   #6
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thanks Ole. I appreciate the info!
09-01-2010, 01:55 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by opiet70 Quote
I think of a tiger in India stalking me that I got the shot, but it was a crappy shot...
I'd also like to point out that a spotmeter won't help you in this sort of situation, you don't have time to zone it out initially with a seperate device

09-01-2010, 04:37 PM - 1 Like   #8
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I use my K20D as a spotmeter for a VERY simplified Zone-system approach, but only with longer lenses, say 85mm+.

1) Switch to spot metering.
2) Read off the brightest point in your subject.
3) Read off the very darkest point of the subject.
4) Set exposure to midway between the readings.

A spotmeter could be useful when using a wide lens. Or you could just change lenses -- use the long on to read, the wide one to shoot. Cheaper than a spotmeter, eh?
09-01-2010, 05:05 PM   #9
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Well, it sounds like you might have better luch shooting in RAW if you aren't already. You'd be surprised how much exposure latitude you can gain that way. I would also probably get an incident light meter before a spot meter because you still need to compensate due to the nature of reflected light readings.
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