AF-540FGZ inconsistent results

amoringello · 11-02-2010, 01:21 PM

Best settings are; take the flash off the hotshoe and set to manual.
PTTL is a total and complete bad joke. Works great in controlled studio environment where you can remove any problematic objects or surfaces (mainly any reflective item larger than a pin-head at 10+ feet). In the real world, PTTL is darned near useless.

Actually, I've had decent luck in bright light with HighSpeed Sync, but only up to about three feet distance. There the specular highlights do not seem to be a problem since the shutter speed can help control that... but then the flash is cut to an equivalent of about 1/128 power and has no significant range.

Bob photo 4 life · 11-02-2010, 03:53 PM

Originally posted by Ash

Bob, the post right before yours describes the P-TTL settings that have been working for me for years.

Yes, I think those will help me, I will try them. But I think I have an even more basic question; seems like most use M on the camera, is that also a good place to start?

amoringello · 11-02-2010, 04:26 PM

PTTL will react accordingly regardless of the the camera being set to manual or not. M is always a good place to start in order to ensure you know what your settings should be... but if you're going to keep the flash on the camera and use PTTL, it doesn't really make much difference.
I prefer Av or Tv as appropriate if for no other reason than I'm lazy and only want to change one dial at a time.
Its when the flash comes off the camera and you are in total manual mode that it makes more sense to us M mode on the camera as well as the flash.
i.e. in a studio setting, I am always in 100% manual on both flash and camera.
When the environment changes, I stay in Av or Tv and pray PTL gets it right. Or set in manual for fill and hope I am good with the changes in my head to compensate. :-)

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11-02-2010, 01:21 PM	#16
amoringello Veteran Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Virginia, USA Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,562	Best settings are; take the flash off the hotshoe and set to manual. PTTL is a total and complete bad joke. Works great in controlled studio environment where you can remove any problematic objects or surfaces (mainly any reflective item larger than a pin-head at 10+ feet). In the real world, PTTL is darned near useless. Actually, I've had decent luck in bright light with HighSpeed Sync, but only up to about three feet distance. There the specular highlights do not seem to be a problem since the shutter speed can help control that... but then the flash is cut to an equivalent of about 1/128 power and has no significant range.

11-02-2010, 03:53 PM	#17
Bob photo 4 life Forum Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Oregon Posts: 81	Originally posted by Ash Bob, the post right before yours describes the P-TTL settings that have been working for me for years. Yes, I think those will help me, I will try them. But I think I have an even more basic question; seems like most use M on the camera, is that also a good place to start?

11-02-2010, 04:26 PM	#18
amoringello Veteran Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Virginia, USA Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,562	PTTL will react accordingly regardless of the the camera being set to manual or not. M is always a good place to start in order to ensure you know what your settings should be... but if you're going to keep the flash on the camera and use PTTL, it doesn't really make much difference. I prefer Av or Tv as appropriate if for no other reason than I'm lazy and only want to change one dial at a time. Its when the flash comes off the camera and you are in total manual mode that it makes more sense to us M mode on the camera as well as the flash. i.e. in a studio setting, I am always in 100% manual on both flash and camera. When the environment changes, I stay in Av or Tv and pray PTL gets it right. Or set in manual for fill and hope I am good with the changes in my head to compensate. :-)