[Deiberson]

I've been using Cactus triggers with my Sigma 530, AF360 and Yongnugo 460 flashes. I've been getting some banding at 160th. Specifically with the Sigma How would I verify what product is causing the issue? I would expect intermittent results @ 1/180th but not 160th. 125 is solid all around but that sucks having to drop that low when the competition is shooting 1/500th.

[hoanpham]

Try to change batteries on the receivers. I got banding at 1/180 and 1/160 when batteries are weak. 1/180 may not be safe with the new batteries, and banding at 1/160 is reduced greatly, but still not reliable. I also have several triggers of the same sort and can change triggers as needed to verify the effects.

Most cases, I have to shot at 1/125.

I wish there is an option in the firmware that allow us to fine adjust the timing of the hotshoe. It's should be easy if Pentax ever listen to their users.

[Deiberson]

Sometimes the solution is just to not buy the cheapest stuff you can

Which begs the question....do you always need to buy the most expensive things you can? I'd have to dump 5-600 bucks into PW to outfit my strobes. I did it for 60 bucks using the cactus system. Generally....they work 98% of the time at 160th and 95% of the time at 180th.

Thanks for the nuggets regarding the batteries. I didn't even think about it and they are still the originals.

Someday however...I'm going to pony up for a set of PW. They are without question the best and bomb proof. For now though....I could probably get by in commander mode if I needed to since line of sight isn't an issue for me at this point in my career.

[hoanpham]

;-) I wish I have money for several pocket wizards too.

For now I stay with cheap stuff: 10 receivers + 3 transmitters cost less than one pocket wizard - and I have to figure out - is it the transmitter I need first or the receiver?

One have to give up something for cheap stuff.

[slip]

mine would occationally do this at 1/125. also interested in the answer to the question

cheers

[hoanpham]

With 13 components, you have 13 points of potential failure. This might cost more than one pocket wizard if jobs are money.

I am so agree ;-)

As long as I shoot for free, no one can complain ;-)

[jboyde]

To try to put this on a more helpful track, the Sigma is unreliable past 1/125 with the Cactus triggers. I'm not sure if it will be any different with Pocketwizards. With the flash on camera, using the optical slave on the Sigma or using wireless TTL they all worked well at max sync speed.
I noticed the problem with the Cactus V2s and it continued with the V4s. I see no reason to think that it won't continue with the V5s. I did notice though that I got fewer banding shots at 1/160 with my camera in portrait position than in landscape.
I'm probably going to rent some PWs and test it. If it still happens its no big worry. 1/125 in studio is fine, plus i'm a strobist so the Sigma is only one out of my 6 flashes. Worse comes to worse i'll just keep it on slave mode.

[sterretje]

I wish there is an option in the firmware that allow us to fine adjust the timing of the hotshoe. It's should be easy if Pentax ever listen to their users.

Question would be why Pentax would support 3rd party stuff?

I'm not sure how the camera determines when the first curtain is fully open.
If that's (still) some kind of a mechanical switch, there is no way that software can fix it.
If it's a timer, then it would be possible.

[amoringello]

I would suggest you find a local camera shop or friend that will let you use Pocket Wizards... if you get the same behavior it is likely the camera.

I use Elinchrom Skyports.. My K7 had to go down to 1/125 sometimes 1/100 to stop banding with remote trigger. Same behavior I was getting with Cactus.
Sent the K7 in for repair, came back "in spec" with same problem.

The K5 and K10D work well up to 1/180 with both Skyport and Cactus remotes. (sometimes need to go down to 1/160 with Cactus but not always)

Just saying, my guess is that the camera may not sync that fast from the remote. Not sure about the specific as to why that would be... questions to both Pentax and Elinchrom resulted in a lot of heated finger-pointing.

Note, my K7 synched just fine with PTTL and with non-PTTL flashes directly connected... just not with the wireless remotes.

[eastman]

I shoot primarily in the studio, and so my K20D(s) live in X sync (1/180). I have never seen banding with either PocketWizards ($$$) or Paul Buff (AlienBees) CyberSyncs ($). I have not tried the cheaper alternatives like Cactus (and probably never will).

[jboyde]

I would suggest you find a local camera shop or friend that will let you use Pocket Wizards... if you get the same behavior it is likely the camera.

I use Elinchrom Skyports.. My K7 had to go down to 1/125 sometimes 1/100 to stop banding with remote trigger. Same behavior I was getting with Cactus.
Sent the K7 in for repair, came back "in spec" with same problem.

The K5 and K10D work well up to 1/180 with both Skyport and Cactus remotes. (sometimes need to go down to 1/160 with Cactus but not always)

Just saying, my guess is that the camera may not sync that fast from the remote. Not sure about the specific as to why that would be... questions to both Pentax and Elinchrom resulted in a lot of heated finger-pointing.

Note, my K7 synched just fine with PTTL and with non-PTTL flashes directly connected... just not with the wireless remotes.

It seems to be only with wireless remotes and the Sigma 530 Super. Every other flash I have works all the way to max. Maybe they fixed it with the new 610s, hopefully.

[kenyee]

Try to change batteries on the receivers. I got banding at 1/180 and 1/160 when batteries are weak. 1/180 may not be safe with the new batteries, and banding at 1/160 is reduced greatly, but still not reliable.

Had the same problem w/ Cactus triggers when the battery was low. Don't bother w/ the RF602/603's too...they'll band unless you shoot at 1/125th.

I use radiopopper JrXs now. And no, you don't need the most expensive stuff, just what works for you. Cybersyncs work well as well, so now you know a few alternatives to PW.

[Lowell Goudge]

I've been using Cactus triggers with my Sigma 530, AF360 and Yongnugo 460 flashes. I've been getting some banding at 160th. Specifically with the Sigma How would I verify what product is causing the issue? I would expect intermittent results @ 1/180th but not 160th. 125 is solid all around but that sucks having to drop that low when the competition is shooting 1/500th.

who is at 1/500, the only shutters I know with this sync speed are iris shutters?

but note that anything you put in series with the flash trigger will add a delay, and since that delay may be both to the trigger as well as shut off, then it is easy to see it slipping back in time from the full open situation.

Also note thaty on the K10D and K20D with the AF540FGZ the flash duration exceeds the full open time at max power already.

You need to look at the flash duration not only the guide number.

[amoringello]

Dunno.. Page 89 from the manual:
"(M1/1) flash: approx. 1/1200 sec. (TTL) Fastest duration time: Approx. 1/20000 sec."

1/1200 is a lot faster than most shutter sync speeds. Thats half peak timing, so the light continues for some time beyond, but does a significant amount of it exceed past 1/180 sec? That would have to be a pretty flat curve. Or I am misunderstanding the manual. (quite likely, as well :-) )

I dont think the flashes will have a hard time keeping up with higher sync speeds.

[amoringello]

Sure, but 1/2 peak, I believe, means 50% of the flash power is is utilized at that point. The remaining half power falls off on a curve, usually fairly rapidly. Some part of that last 50% is significant, but not all of it. By the time 1/200 second goes by, it could be that 10% of flash power remains... regardless, at some point on the curve the remaining power is not longer significant to the exposure.

It would be nice to know how long that last half takes to expire, but the curve would have to be pretty flat and be shaped more like a box in order for it to still be significant at lets say 1/250 second.

I believe it would not be a cause for banding... excessively long flash durations should actually help reduce banding as the flash duration extends past the sync speed window.... assuming the flash gets the signal to start on time and significant light power extends through the sync window before it falls of completely. :-)