[Den]

Wasn't able to find any discussion or rating on this item. Anyone have an opinion and the best way to utilize one. Which lenses work best with one doing landscape with clouds. Using an ND vs Polarizer.
Thanks for any advice.

[Docrwm]

On the issue of the filter itself - I've been very happy with the Marumi filters I own and the reviews that I have read over the past 2 years consistently give them very high marks for quality. Add to that the fact that they tend to be less costly than the other highly rated filters and you have a great combination IMHO.

[imtheguy]

In my limited experience with Marumi I have noted their low-end filters are just that and their high-end filters very acceptable. So avoid the $12 copies and you should be happy with the purchase.

[AGWoodard]

I'm surprised no one answered your questions, so let me give it a shot.

An ND filter, with digital, allows you to shoot at longer exposure times than you normally could. Their main use, again with digital, is showing movement, most often in Water, but they can be used artistically to create the illusion of movement in grass, or other subjects, even people walking on the street. An ND filter, covers the entire lens. Do not confuse them with Graduated ND filters which only cover a portion of the lens.

A polarizer reduces glare, and reflections. It can also be used to reduce your shutter speed like an ND, they are normally about 2 stops, but their primary use is different than an ND filter. Polarizers will also make blue skies bluer, make clouds stand out, and enhance fall colors.

As to which works better on which lens, the ND filter will work with "almost" any lens. With supper wide lens, however, you may get some vignetting from the filter ring. In this case, a slim ND filter is better.

A polarizer on the other hand, will sometimes give an uneven color to blue skies on super wide angle lens. So one side of the photo might be a light blue while the other is a darker blue. It will look unnatural.

The two can be used in conjunction with each other also.

Those are the basics without the technical jargon of angle of degrees from the sun that a Polarizer works best at and yadayadayada.

As for the specific brand of filter you mentioned, I have no experience with them. Most ND filters, even though they say they are neutral, give off some color cast. Because of this, I have chosen to use B&W ND and Polarizing filters. The results are consistent and it is easier to deal with just one variable in post processing. The brand that you mention however, is recognized as very good, so if you buy their top of the line filters, you should be more than satisfied.

To sum up, the ND will allow you to get that silky smooth flowing water effect you see in many waterfall shots. The Polarizer will allow you to reduce glare and reflections and, make your colors pop. You really need both in your kit. If I had to choose one to start with, it would be the polarizer. You will use it more often than the ND normally.

To keep the cost down, some photographers buy ND and Polarizers for the largest lens they own, and then use step up rings so they can use the same filters on smaller diameter lens. So if your largest lens is a 77mm, and you also have a 58mm, just buy the 77 mm filter and a step up ring from 58 to 77. Keep in mind that this will keep you from using a lens hood, and you will have to sometimes shield the front of your lens with your hat or something else to keep flare from occurring. Personally, I buy a Polarizer for each lens size I own as I use them much more often than I do ND filters, and it lets me use a lens hood when I do, and I carry a 3 stop and a 6 stop ND in the largest lens size with step up rings.

I hope that helps some.

[Den]

I was wondering when someone would actually answer the questions Good on ya AG. I was more concerned about the graduated ND vs Polarizer for landscape when it's bright clouds and darker foreground. Suppose I could actually use both together.

[AGWoodard]

Grad ND filters are another whole ball game. They cover a portion of the lens, and the dividing line can be either soft, of hard. You will find that their use is diminishing somewhat, with software programs available that will do pretty much the same thing. The problem comes in when it is windy and you just cannot take three or more shots of the same image for an HDR photo, although some programs like NIK Viveza and others will allow you to adjust exposure in just a part of your photo, so you can achieve much the same effect of a Gran ND in software even with one photo.

There are two types of Grand ND's available.

Glass round Grad ND Filters and Square ND Filters, sometimes glass, most times resin.

The glass Grad ND's are less functional than the square filters, as the dividing line is right in the middle. With a square filter, you can move that line to where you want it in the frame.

Most of the square filters are made to fit some kind of holder. Lee and Cokin are popular systems for holding grad ND's, however, if you buy the larger size, you can do away with the holders and just hold the filter in front of the lens with your hand when you take the photo. So you could set your camera up, get your polarizer where you want it, and then hold the Grad ND in front of the lens and snap away.

Yes, you can also use them together. Remember that part of the Grad ND filter just blocks light in part of the frame, where the polarizer will affect the entire exposure.

Singh Ray are very good filters. Hightech also makes some nice ones too. Cokin tend to have a significant color shift, but it can be corrected in post processing. It is worth it to carry one or two in your kit, but to be honest, I rarely use them anymore, doing most of what I need to do with software.

The only caution I would give you is to not buy the round glass Grad ND's. They are too limited in composing compelling photographs.

For the money, I would check out the NIK Viveza program. It runs about 100 bucks, but you can use the coupon code Moats for 15% off. They have a try before you buy program as well, and I think you will find that you can accomplish most if not all of what a Grad ND can do with it.

[TimKierath]

You will find that their use is diminishing somewhat, with software programs available that will do pretty much the same thing.

I have looked at hundreds of results and still find the results from a good grad ND set up more pleasing than software doing the same thing. I'm sure why it is, but your eye is very clever and seems to always "tell me" if it's been done in HDR style (even if it's a conservative and tasteful HDR) whereas with filters I just think "Wow".

[nanhi]

Hello Den, here is an honest suggestion from good experience. I have a couple of lenses in different filter sizes. Have expensive CPL and an ND Filter in 52 & 72 mm mounts. The lenses with 67 & 77 mm filter sizes required new CPL & ND Filters.
Now the usage of this accessories did not justify spending too much. So I bought the cheapest 77 mm CPL, Vari ND & Graduated ND from Amazon for a total $ 22 shipped from China. Also bought some step up/down rings for $ 2 each, so that I could these filters on other lenses.
What. Surprise, when I received the packet from China. Absolutely pro stuff, as good as the very expensive stuff I have. And the filters are GLASS, but not coated, the rings anodised aluminum with firm rotation.
Put them to test on my 10-20 mm lens. Perfect, as good as my expensive brand name stuff.
Please don't waste money on the so called branded stuff. After all how many times in a month do we use these filters?
Good Luck.

[tibbitts]

My limited experience has been that:

1. only square/rectangular grad filters are useful - round ones aren't.

2. Newer sensors cut down on the need for grad ND filters, but don't entirely eliminate it. Probably the dynamic range of the 16mp sensor eliminates more than 50% of the need for an ND filter vs. the 6mp or 10mp generations.

3. HDR is very helpful for some applications and not as much for others - for example moving foliage isn't the optimal target for HDR.

4. I have a number of "window glass" filters and some MC hoya filters. I'm not quite convinced that my ebay polarizers are as good as brand names, in terms of color quality, but I need to test further. As for the window glass UV filters, I can't distinguish them from the more expensive variety except with flare-prone subjects.

Paul

[nanhi]

Hi Tibbitts Sir, extremely sorry for confusing you. My take was a) what %-age of time do we use ND, GND and CPL filters? b) If I were a PRO I would definitely stick to my expensive Hoya's and Pentax SMCs; c) So everything has a value for money, especially for the Amateur photographer; d) Also there is a quality and price pay off. My tests on the Chinese 77mm glass GND & CPL filters purchased recently for $ 5 & 7 apiece shipped, showed up less than 22% difference in the intended use, but the price difference is over 700 %. And of course these Chinese stuff are not coated, so I would not dare use them against the light. e) Have attached some quick sample backyard test shots for you to evaluate.
What amazes me is how do the Chinese manufactures manage these prices with shipping? I bought an OTG cable for my touchpad thru Amazon for 79 cents shipped from China. And the price at Radio Shack - my God $ 14.
Hope I am not saying that these Chinese Filters are as good as B&W, but they do get the job done well.
And yes a SQ Filter is better. Again the Chinese sell the SQ Cokin copies with 4 adapter rings and some 6 SQ Filters for peanuts shipped. Now I am afraid to tell you to try them.
And yes, I bought an IR Remote for $ 2.20 shipped. Works great on my Pentax and my friends Canon. And it is supposed to work on Sony + Nikon too - has buttons with camera makes marked on it. My Pentax Remote F cost me $ 15 in a sale. And the build is superb - not cheapo at all.
Regards. Bipin. camp: San Mateo, California.
PS: Sorry, my quota of attachments are full. Request some dear friends to please let me know how to delete the old photos.