[Lowell Goudge]

Phil is on the right track about using a long acra-swiss plate to at least get your kit more or less centered over the ball. it is not perfect, but it should help

[Lowell Goudge]

Just a really dumb idea here but have you considered, once you get a plate to have the ball at the CofG for your setup, to turn the ball on it's side, sort of like a gimbal, I know it now is vertical as opposed to horizontal, but try that and see if the lens moves when you let go after framing

[tim60]

Internal-External Lock
Attachment 141542

.

-Heie

Never saw an internal and external lock washer before. Learn something every day!

I had this problem with the tripod. I have had much more success hand holding the Rubinar 1000 (2.5kg + body) than ever trying it on tripod. I never got a tripod shot to work with it. I use the methods Heie gave for holding long lenses in one of his early posts (most of a year ago).

[Ex Finn.]

Never saw an internal and external lock washer before. Learn something every day!

I had this problem with the tripod. I have had much more success hand holding the Rubinar 1000 (2.5kg + body) than ever trying it on tripod. I never got a tripod shot to work with it. I use the methods Heie gave for holding long lenses in one of his early posts (most of a year ago).

He did demonstrate some very good techniques.
The problem with the lock-washer is that it would chew up the camera or the lens as he mentioned.

[tranq78]

I always had this problem where after framing things, letting go of the camera causes it to creep a very small amount. At first I thought it was the tripod I was using (more specifically the ball head). However on close inspection it is not actually the ballhead the moves, but rather the camera from the QR plate. The only way I know of to stop this is to move the camera from the base (ie movie it below the plate). This stops the creep after letting go but it is quite inconvenient. Has anyone else had this problem and what ways did you solve it?

The answer is really quite simple and you don't need to get anything like washers. See my response in this thread: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-beginners-corner-q/135866-how-tigh...ase-plate.html

Ignore the chatter after my post from the doubter(s). Some people have an opinion about everything even if they have never tried it, but my camera plates are tight and his aren't.

1) Go to hardware store, buy a small roll of teflon tape. Also known as plumber's tape. Will cost you about $1.

2) Cut off about a 2-3cm strip and loosely wrap it around the screw of your Arca-Swiss plate.

3) Tighten the plate to the bottom of the camera.

4) If the plate still slips or rotates, cut a longer strip of plumber's tape and wrap it a couple extra times around the screw and repeat step 3.

You will find your plate will sit firmly and solidly against your camera. I always have a small roll of plumber's tape on hand when connecting things to my tripods, cameras, lenses, etc. I always use this when connecting lens plates to my heavier lenses (like 300/2.8 or 600/5.6).

[Ex Finn.]

The answer is really quite simple and you don't need to get anything like washers. See my response in this thread: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-beginners-corner-q/135866-how-tigh...ase-plate.html

Ignore the chatter after my post from the doubter(s). Some people have an opinion about everything even if they have never tried it, but my camera plates are tight and his aren't.

1) Go to hardware store, buy a small roll of teflon tape. Also known as plumber's tape. Will cost you about $1.

2) Cut off about a 2-3cm strip and loosely wrap it around the screw of your Arca-Swiss plate.

3) Tighten the plate to the bottom of the camera.

4) If the plate still slips or rotates, cut a longer strip of plumber's tape and wrap it a couple extra times around the screw and repeat step 3.

You will find your plate will sit firmly and solidly against your camera. I always have a small roll of plumber's tape on hand when connecting things to my tripods, cameras, lenses, etc. I always use this when connecting lens plates to my heavier lenses (like 300/2.8 or 600/5.6).

Using Teflon tape to prevent rotation is a nifty idea, will not help with OP`s problem thou.

[stevebrot]

"Tripod Sag" is a sticky issue and can have a number of causes and a number of solutions. The ultimate solution, of course, is a geared head ($$$), but they are heavy and somewhat cumbersome in use.

Causes:

• Camera rotates on platform. Caused by poor design and/or unbalanced load.
• QR plate lifts in clamp. Also caused by poor design and can be made worse by excessive or unbalanced load
• Laxness or flexing of tripod head. Caused by poor design and/or poor choice of materials and can be made worse by excessive or unbalanced load
• Flexing of tripod legs and/or center post. Caused by poor design/materials and can be made worse by excessive or unbalanced load.

Solutions:

• Make sure that your platform has sufficient friction or other feature to engage the camera. If it is a QR plate, see if you can get a design that is made to prevent rotation by positive engagement of the camera base. I use a Arca-Swiss plate from Giottos that features two tabs that act as stops.
• If you are using a QR, use a system where potential for plate flexion is minimized.
• Use a quality head appropriate for the weight of your kit
• Use the right head for the job (gimbals suck for macro work)
• Use a quality tripod appropriate for the weight of your kit
• Use a tripod collar and/or extended plate to properly balance the load. (Another advantage of the Arca-Swiss plates.)

Note the repeated reference to balance and capacity. The published capacity for all tripods and heads assume a balanced load and even then those capacities are often somewhat overstated That nifty travel tripod that only weighs a few pounds is simply not up to the task of supporting a FF dSLR with battery grip and 50-500/3.5 zoom. No way, no how. Big gear means big tripod. Big gear means big head. Big gear means $$$.


Steve

---

Last edited by stevebrot; 09-29-2012 at 05:34 PM.

[philbaum]

I know that my Giottos sells longer QR plates, and i bought one when i purchased the tripod. I'm going to see if it will help balance the camera CG over the tripod. Thats not why i got it, but its worth a try.

If one has longer lenses, that don't have a lens mount, its going to put stress and tend to rotate the camera on the ball-head, especially in the portrait orientation.

So i took my longer Giottos QR plates (ARCA lookalike) and put that on my K5 camera with the DA50-135 installed (comes with no lens mount). The 50-135 has always wanted to rotate the camera around the tripod 1/4" screw when in the portrait mode. The 90mm long plate allowed me to slide the camera 1" or 25mm backward, placing more of the weight directly over the ballhead axis. This helped to balance the combo quite a bit, but more backward distance would help it balance better. Once i release the safety stop on the plate, i was able to move the camera back 38mm which helped balance it much more. Don't know that i like useing the QR without the safety stop. Anyway, i may order a longer QR plate than the 90 I already have. Besides helping prevent camera tilt, it will also help center the camera/lens on their optical axis for pano shots, the reason i originially bought it.

[tranq78]

Using Teflon tape to prevent rotation is a nifty idea, will not help with OP`s problem thou.

Why won't it fix the OP's problem?

If the nosediving is caused by the plate not being tight against the camera base this can correct it.

[Ex Finn.]

Why won't it fix the OP's problem?

If the nosediving is caused by the plate not being tight against the camera base this can correct it.

I believe the problem is caused by the base of the camera flexing just a bit, not by a fixing screw that is not tight enough. And like stevebrot said, it could be caused by a combination of different things.

[sam-joseph]

There is a third option.....



Regards

[Ex Finn.]

There is a third option.....



Regards

What a cute little MIG. However the future adjustments would require a grinder.

[123jippo]

I have noticed that my K5 rotates much more on tripod than my old K100D did. K5 have smooth body near tripod mount screw and K100D have little wave form near tripod mount screw...

[grhazelton]

I use a rubber washer between my quick release plate and camera body. It provides extra friction to prevent the camera from rotating. Just pick one with the center hole slightly small than the mounting screw so it doesn't fall off easily.



I've also read somewhere that auto parts companies having sheets of rubber gasket material that you can cut to size to match your mounting plate. I've haven't looked into that option though.

Tim

Tim

You might check with a bicycle shop for inner tube patches. They are pretty thin rubber, under 1/16" and have an adhesive on one side with a peel off layer. One could be cut to match your QR plate, the plate's surface cleaned thorough, and the "patch" applied. I'd worry about any fix which reduces the contact area between the plate and the camera, since this would really raise the PSI of the smaller area, and perhaps distort the camera's base plate.

My Manfrotto QR plate has a cork/rubber insert and so far it hasn't slipped, but....

[AlStewart]

I found this thing called Hisbiz brand un-slip quick release plate slip preventer on amazon. Anybody used it?
https://www.amazon.com/HisBiz-UN-slip-Preventer-Completely-L-Brackets/dp/B072R485NP