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12-18-2013, 09:07 AM   #1
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AA batteries in grip and continuous shooting

Hi.

I got a K3 and D-BG5 grip. Tried it out with six old version (1000X charge cycles) eneloop batteries, fully charged.

Single shots they are fine, but will display "battery depleted" when shooting continuous H.

I supposed it meaned the internal resistance of the AAs are too large to support the current draw of continuous shooting at high FPS (I did not try M or L, though). Is it the batteries too old to survive, or is continuous shooting just not for AAs?

Lithium batteries worked fine.

12-18-2013, 09:39 AM   #2
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Where does the camera display "battery depleted"? Did the camera still function in Hi and you got that message, or was it just the message that was the problem. I noticed that the last time I used eneloop AAs in my K-5 grip, the battery level always showed as low.
12-18-2013, 10:11 AM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by jake14mw Quote
Where does the camera display "battery depleted"? Did the camera still function in Hi and you got that message, or was it just the message that was the problem. I noticed that the last time I used eneloop AAs in my K-5 grip, the battery level always showed as low.
The camera stopped shooting and dislayed the message on the main screen, and after the message the camera turned off automatically. It can be turned on and used without any problem, just not continuous shooting.

I tried changing battery type setting from Auto to NiMh, but that did not help.
12-18-2013, 11:14 AM   #4
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Sounds like your initial guess could be right. All batteries will have a lower voltage if you drain a higher current. Most systems only watch the voltage because it's easier to measure. There is a good chance that your old batteries will have a more significant voltage drop at high loads because of chemical aging effects inside. Do they have the same nominal voltage as new ones when you measure them without load?

Testing them vs new ones under high load (>=1 Ampere) for a very short time and measuring the voltage could show if this is the reason. However buying new ones could save you this time

12-18-2013, 11:32 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by delegopa Quote
Sounds like your initial guess could be right. All batteries will have a lower voltage if you drain a higher current. Most systems only watch the voltage because it's easier to measure. There is a good chance that your old batteries will have a more significant voltage drop at high loads because of chemical aging effects inside. Do they have the same nominal voltage as new ones when you measure them without load?

Testing them vs new ones under high load (>=1 Ampere) for a very short time and measuring the voltage could show if this is the reason. However buying new ones could save you this time
Ya, that's most likely the reason. Open circuit voltage of the eneloops in hand are normal, 1.40~1.45V.

AFAIK, about the internal resistance, Lithium < Eneloop (or eneloop-like, low self discharge types) < normal NiMH < Alkaline.

I was trying to confirm if newer eneloop (or some other good NiMH) batteries would solve the problem, or any NiMH AAs would fail the continuous H.
12-18-2013, 02:57 PM   #6
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No problems with Eneloops in my K5's on continuous.
12-18-2013, 03:29 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by tabl10s Quote
No problems with Eneloops in my K5's on continuous.
Thanks for the input. Which version is your eneloops? 1000 cycles, 1500, or 1800?

I would like to see some experiences with K3, as it may have a higher current drain.

12-23-2013, 11:46 AM   #8
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I got them this year, so I assume, the newest. The older version(s)were/are multi-colored with a sparkle finish and cost me $24.99 for four. The new are medium AND light blue(separately)and cost $19.99 for six and are more powerful at Costco.

The old go in my Metz flashes(and the house remotes)and the later models in the grips.
12-23-2013, 06:50 PM   #9
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+1 for Eneloops ... I have been a great fan. I use the La Crosse Technology BC-700 Alpha Power Battery Charger to charge them.
06-27-2014, 05:27 PM   #10
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I was using Eneloops and had a strange autofocus problem with my 50-135. First I noticed that it wasn't autofocusing, then when I pressed the AF mode button, it would cycle rapidly through all the AF modes. I took the lens off and replaced it, thinking I might have a bad contact, but no relief. I Switched to the internal battery and all was OK again. Does the SDM in the 50-135 draw a lot of current?
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