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05-18-2014, 10:29 PM - 1 Like   #16
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I tested the Safari this evening just to see how it worked.
The first thing I noticed is that there is a very aggresive tension bump tab on the bottom of the Safari and adapters that does not give enough to allow proper insertion on my hot shoes.
I alleviated the issue by slicing the front attachment point off the tension tab so now it moves up enough to allow the adapter to insertt properly into the hot shoe.
Once I did that I attached the Safari with the 8mm spacer and it works great.
I stop it at the point Adrian suggested, where it meets the front of the adapter.
The resulting distance from K-3 flash to Fresnel lens is 46mm.
Pattern appears smooth, with no severe banding issue as seen with the original samples.
This is with an 18-135 because I wanted to check the position, shape and size of the pattern.
First at 18mm, then 55mm where it almost fills the frame.



At 135mm the entire image is lit, so 300mm and above should be completely filled.
I hope to get out this week and try it during daylight with some birds. Best thing is that the unit is compact and doesn't require an outboard flash unit.

---------- Post added 05-18-14 at 10:53 PM ----------

Next I tried my K-5 classic.
Using the same position as the K-3 above there appears more banding with the K-5.
I believe it is because the K-3 flash has a sort of diffuser front lens, while the K-5 has a front lens with ridges similar to the Safari unit.
This at 28mm


if you push it back a bit more on the mount it gets better, but also becomes a bit unstable


Perhaps the K-5ii series has a different front lens on the flash?

In any case I will probably only use this unit with the K-3.

---------- Post added 05-18-14 at 11:11 PM ----------

Here is a test with the K-30.
On the K-30 the flash cover is so long that you need to open the flash before attaching the Safari, and hook it over and then insert it to the hot shoe.
If you try to open the flash with the Safari already on it bumps up against the bottom of the Safari.
The K-30 has a similar flash front lens with ridges as the K-5, so results are similar.


05-19-2014, 01:28 AM - 1 Like   #17
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Thanks Larry. I checked out the 'bump' you mentioned and pushed the Safari all the way in on both the hot shoe and then only pushed the Safari in the adapter until it did not protrude as before, and here's the results with the K3, DA*300 f4 and HD Pentax Rear Converter. As this is what I would be using the Safari for, I'm pretty impressed. (Shot at the bottom of the balnk wall with light switch is uncropped). This was at a range of ~10 metres.

I have also attached a 'real world' shot taken over the weekend when I didn't have the Safari pushed over the 'bump'. If there is a problem, it is imperceptible to the naked eye. Shot of the bird (a Masked Lapwing) was taken at a range of about 15 metres.
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Last edited by AdrianM; 05-19-2014 at 01:44 AM.
05-19-2014, 06:50 AM   #18
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Very good results Adrian!
Cool shot of the lapwing.
My main concern with not pushing the adapter past the bump is that since it is asymmetrical it only holds on the left side until you push it past the bump.
I think this is going to be excellent with the K-3 DA*300 1.4hd combo as your shots show.
Thanks for breaking the ice and bringing it to my attention.
05-19-2014, 02:04 PM   #19
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Thanks, Larry. I have now taken it all the way down to 100mm on the K3 (using Sigma 100-300 f4) and it is just beautiful. Will post the new shots tonight.

05-20-2014, 03:41 AM - 1 Like   #20
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So, what have I found: Firstly, ensure that the large spacer is pushed very firmly into the hot shoe. There is a plastic bump in the right hand side that will tear off as it is pushed in - that is okay, just make sure the spacer is fully seated in the hot shoe, and it is quite a firm push to get it into place the first time. Then, push the Safari into the spacer so that the 'tongue' does not protrude beyond the far edge of the spacer. (If you push it all the way in, it will protrude about 5mm towards the front of the camera, but don't do that).

When I looked again at my shots from this morning, I found that the extent of banding depended on distance from the target, so now I don't really recommend it at 100mm. At 200mm and above the resuts are great. What I also found was that the 100-300 f4 gets in the way of the flash beam a bit and so there is more shading at the bottom than the top - so a bit dependent on the lens used. A shorter lens might give better results, but I don't have one to hand.
10-13-2014, 04:29 AM - 2 Likes   #21
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I took the Safari to South America with the K3, DA*300 f4 and Pentax HD 1.4x Rear Converter. What a fantastic combination. The results were remarkable, and it meant I had a long focal length kit that I could easily carry 1000 metres up a mountain. Having the Safari saved me from having to carry and fit an external flash and Beamer. Excellent combination for travelling. Flash range is easily above 15 metres.

Setting with the Safari - push the large spacer fully into the camera hot shoe, then the Safari only so far into the spacer that the leading edge of the foot does not protrude from the spacer. If you are worried about it being a little loose, it would be easy to glue the Safari to the spacer.

Link to an Austral Pygmy Owl, and Magellanic Woodpecker below, both taken in the Torres del Paine National Park, Chile.

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/attachments/172-pentax-k-3/239071d1412162...-pygmy-owl.jpg
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10-13-2014, 06:40 AM   #22
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Awesome shots Adrian, must have been a fantastic trip.
10-14-2014, 12:51 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by crewl1 Quote
Awesome shots Adrian, must have been a fantastic trip.
It really was a great trip, and having the Safari allowed me to get stuck into birding even though I was really weight and space limited. I haven't counted yet, but I probably have captured over 20 bird species. I guess I better start processing the circa 2000 shots I took in just over 3 weeks!

Since I came back home, I have a couple of forays birding with the same kit and have left my 500mm at home. A lot easier to get through thick scrub when the gear is small and light and without a tripod attached.

05-18-2015, 05:42 AM - 1 Like   #24
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As a follow-up, I have now glued the Safari into the correct position for my K-3 and K-5IIS so that I don't have to worry about it falling out or becoming misaligned: Push the Safari into place until the 'tongue' just begins to protrude from the other side of the spacer. Glue it there (I used Araldite) and it stays quite steady and 'square'. I haven't had any problems with 'real world' shots out of the Safari with this setting.
05-23-2015, 07:23 PM   #25
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As a FYI, for any Aussies interested in the Rogue Safari, Ted's have it listed on their web site and eBay store for $24.95 + $9.95 delivery.
05-23-2015, 08:54 PM - 4 Likes   #26
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Some photos of the setup for Pentax K3, and the K5 series. The Safari attaches by using a 'spacer' which slots into the hot shoe attachment. Two spacers are provided, and Pentax uses the larger one (8mm).

The photo shows the "normal" position of the Safari "head" pushing into the spacer as recommended by Rogue (for other camera systems). In the normal position recommended by Rogue, the 'tongue' on the head pushes through the spacer and protrudes, and locks into position there. That doesn't work for Pentax because it makes the fresnel lens too far away from the flash head. So, for Pentax, only push the head into the spacer until the tongue aligns with the edge of the spacer. As this doesn't lock the head into place properly, I recommend gluing the head to the spacer in the recommended position. I used Araldite for this purpose.
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PENTAX K-5 II s  Photo 
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Last edited by AdrianM; 05-23-2015 at 10:05 PM.
05-24-2015, 07:32 AM   #27
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Thanks Adrian for bringing this product to our attention, and also for providing the additional info to make it functional. Always looking for a way to lighten the load, as I also have been employing the Better Beamer and a flash unit. FYI, I went on to Amazon to order it and noticed that your lorikeet photos are used in the ad, with copyright included.

And thank you Larry (crewl1) as well for your research and input.
05-24-2015, 01:59 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by AdrianM Quote
Some photos of the setup for Pentax K3, and the K5 series. The Safari attaches by using a 'spacer' which slots into the hot shoe attachment. Two spacers are provided, and Pentax uses the larger one (8mm).

The photo shows the "normal" position of the Safari "head" pushing into the spacer as recommended by Rogue (for other camera systems). In the normal position recommended by Rogue, the 'tongue' on the head pushes through the spacer and protrudes, and locks into position there. That doesn't work for Pentax because it makes the fresnel lens too far away from the flash head. So, for Pentax, only push the head into the spacer until the tongue aligns with the edge of the spacer. As this doesn't lock the head into place properly, I recommend gluing the head to the spacer in the recommended position. I used Araldite for this purpose.
Perfect !
I will decidedly order this for my K5. (In spite of the possible banding it created with the onboard K5 flash).
Should work well with an "upgrade" such as the K5IIs or, better, the K3 !

Cheers.

JP

Last edited by jpzk; 05-24-2015 at 02:05 PM.
05-24-2015, 07:07 PM   #29
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Thanks Adrian - will pick one up later in the week.

I am also awaiting a FA100-300 from Australia Post so I look forward to checking the combo out.
05-25-2015, 02:31 AM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by jpzk Quote
Perfect !
I will decidedly order this for my K5. (In spite of the possible banding it created with the onboard K5 flash).
Should work well with an "upgrade" such as the K5IIs or, better, the K3 !

Cheers.

JP
G'day JP - you really are not going to see any banding with the settings shown (and a long lens like the 300 f4)

---------- Post added 25-05-15 at 19:33 ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Arjay Bee Quote
Thanks Adrian - will pick one up later in the week.

I am also awaiting a FA100-300 from Australia Post so I look forward to checking the combo out.
Don't forget that the Safari is intended for longer focal lengths so your results at the short end might not be too flash (pardon the pun).
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