Originally posted by LensBeginner I'd second Manfrotto.
Be aware that the Manfrotto name, just like the Gitzo name, does not mean that everything they make is appropriate for your purpose. I looked at Manfrotto and Induro and bought Giottos.* All three lines had great product, but Giottos had more of what I wanted. There are many other brands and the same applies. Here are a few bullet points:
- Lightness, stability, moderate price...choose two and only two
- Capacity, both for tripods and heads is usually overstated by at least 50%
- If it feels flimsy, it is flimsy. There is nothing magical that will turn flimsy into anything else.
- Multi-angle legs are a good thing
- 4-segment legs tend to be more compact than the 3-segment type
- Be aware of height at full extension with center column full down. Extending the center column decreases stability.
- Be aware of height at minimum extension with legs fully splayed. Is there a short center column included to allow this? What is the weight capacity in this position?
- How easy is it to level the base and/or camera platform? This is important for pano and stitched work.
- Provision to hang extra weight is handy at times
- Warranty
- Foam sheathing on legs for insulation/padding is a good thing
- Alloy vs. Carbon fiber. It is not simply a matter of better vs. best. There are advantages and disadvantages both ways. Cheap carbon may perform worse than quality alloy. Do your market research and actually compare in person before spending the extra money.
- Vibration resistance is a component of stability
How about heads? There are basically four types: pan/tilt, ball, geared, and gimbal. Ball heads are the most commonly-used type for general still photography. Pan/Tilt may also be used. I have both and prefer the ball heads. A geared head allows ultra-fine control over camera position but are rather expensive. Gimbal heads are used with large lens where subject tracking is important (think birds in flight). The points below pertain to ball heads:
- Cheap or good, choose one (not quite that bad, but close). A good head may cost as much or more than good legs**. Mine did.
- Size the head to your kit. If it looks too small, chances are it is too small.
- Consider the quick release (QR) type. Many are proprietary within brand. You will need one per camera. I prefer the Arca-Swiss type plates because they may be used with a wide range of heads and come in multiple sizes.
- Smoothness is a virtue
- QR size relative to camera/lens size should be appropriate. Tiny does not cut it when the angle is strange.
- A larger ball is better than a smaller ball
- Rotating base is a good thing
- Separate controls for base lock, tension, and ball lock are all good things
- Ability to accept alternative QR or other camera mount is desirable
- Smooth is good (yes, I said that before)
- Positive ball and base lock without sag or creep is your goal. Creep is unacceptable. Sag-free is harder to attain. Remember that there is a good chance that the head body will not always be in a vertical position.
- Check how it works with the camera platform full over for vertical shooting. Do this regardless of whether you are anticipating using an L-bracket. Is the side groove deep enough? Are there side grooves on both sides? Is there interference between the plate or camera body and head controls in this position?
- Can the controls be worked when your fingers are gloved?
You may have figured it out by this point that there is a real advantage in actually seeing the products and comparing them in person. I cannot emphasis this enough. This is the voice of experience speaking. I won't tell you the story of the head with the thumbnail-sized QR plate... That said, your local "real" camera store is your best friend***. Take your camera with intended lenses with you and try the stuff out. You will likely discover a few things about your gear and about your photography.
Look at the good (expensive) stuff and use it as a gauge against which to judge the models that are actually in your price range.
- Does it feel heavy when fully folded? Is it compact enough for your needs?
- Extend the legs fully and close them again. Is the feel one of quality?
- Extend the legs fully on the floor and put your hand where the camera will be and exert some force on the head/leg combo in various directions. The setup should not flex, twist, or sag under forces the same as what you expect your gear to present
- Mount the camera to the tripod. Put your finger on the camera top plate and flick one of the legs with a finger of your other hand. Feel the vibration?
- With camera mounted, check the height. Is it tall enough? Are you sure?
- Check how it works at minimum height as well. This is important if you do low angle and/or flowers.
- Check out ALL of the features.
Finally, if you found a pairing that will do the job, ask the salesman for their best price and whether they will match Internet pricing. By this point, he/she has probably worked for your business and deserves the right to the sale. Remember, that store's very existence depends on customers.
More than you ever wanted to know, eh?
Steve
* Despite European-sounding names, most tripods are made in Taiwan or China
** Small heads acceptable for compact cameras start at about $50 USD. I paid $160 for the one I use with the K-3 and the price tends to go up from there.
*** Best Buy is not a real camera store. Neither is Costco.
(Giottos MT 9360 w/ Giottos MH 1301 for general use. For hiking and with my 35mm film cameras, I have a Slik Pro 330DX w/ Manfrotto 494. The 4x5 field camera is supported by the Giottos paired with a vintage Bogen 3028 "3-D" head.)
---------- Post added 11-18-14 at 06:05 PM ----------
Originally posted by mtngal Not sure if all Acratech GP heads...
...uhhhhhh, Acratech... (wipes drool from chin)
Steve