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12-18-2014, 09:49 PM   #16
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Why do you have to calculate yourself when bouncing the flash?


That's what the manual says but when I tried it all my pictures came out way under exposed. Could be I'm missing something ?

12-18-2014, 11:20 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by hjoseph7 Quote
when I tried it all my pictures came out way under exposed. Could be I'm missing something ?
Could it be because the flash did not have enough power?

Raise the ISO setting (both flash and camera) and choose the auto setting with large aperture (smaller f number).

Last edited by SOldBear; 12-18-2014 at 11:56 PM.
12-19-2014, 03:48 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by SOldBear Quote
Could it be because the flash did not have enough power?

Raise the ISO setting (both flash and camera) and choose the auto setting with large aperture (smaller f number).



Larger aperture worked, the pictures that are coming out when I bounce off the ceiling look dreamy, but nice. This flash recycles pretty quickly too in about 2 seconds(The manual says 6) with a set of eneloops.
12-19-2014, 05:54 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by hjoseph7 Quote
The thing I like about this flash is that with every tilt and swivel there is a click. Meaning that is not as free wheeling as the newer flash units. There are stops to every movement which gives you a little more confidence that the flash head will not move during the heat of a shoot. This flash feels definitely solid !
New Pentax and Metz flashes are like that too. Sigma flashes are definitely cheaper. I've used them all. Even inexpensive flashes like Godox v850 feel more solid than Sigma flashes (although my former Sigma never let me down and looked like new after two years. It simply felt cheaper).

QuoteOriginally posted by hjoseph7 Quote
The only thing I can do is use this flash in Auto mode.
Which is fine in most cases, except in particular when using filters.

QuoteOriginally posted by hjoseph7 Quote
That's what the manual says but when I tried it all my pictures came out way under exposed. Could be I'm missing something ?
with modern Pentax DSLRs, with the flash set to auto the camera will detect the proper settings. With the 280T you have two auto settings, red and green. I can't remember which is which but one tells the camera to close the aperture to around f8, the other to open it to around f4/f5.6. Use the former in most situations, the latter when bouncing or when the subject is far away. (that setting does not change the flash power, it mostly changes the exposure settings on the camera).

12-19-2014, 02:17 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by hjoseph7 Quote
That's what the manual says but when I tried it all my pictures came out way under exposed. Could be I'm missing something ?
The AF-280T manual is difficult to understand in places due to its using language that is not very precise. Your flash supports two auto-thyristor modes (green and red), and two manual power levels when paired with your Pentax dSLR. The "auto" modes are the most useful for general shooting.

QuoteOriginally posted by bdery Quote
With the 280T you have two auto settings, red and green. I can't remember which is which but one tells the camera to close the aperture to around f8, the other to open it to around f4/f5.6. Use the former in most situations, the latter when bouncing or when the subject is far away. (that setting does not change the flash power, it mostly changes the exposure settings on the camera).
Yes, that is my understanding as well. The actual camera settings depends on the exposure mode. The old analog Pentax flash protocol allows for a fairly intelligent balancing of ambient light in some modes, though a little experimentation is needed to find out what works best for a particular photographer's work flow. I gave a short summary in my previous post.


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12-19-2014, 02:33 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by SOldBear Quote
Raise the ISO setting (both flash and camera)
I don't believe that is strictly necessary when using lenses having the "A" contacts. The flash communicates its mode to the camera and the camera automatically sets the appropriate aperture based on ISO and flash mode. The flash attenuation program is the same regardless of ISO set on the back scale. In other words, the back scale is simply a slide-rule type calculator for determining aperture.

That being said, I usually find it useful to set the proper ISO on the flash as well so that I have some reference as to range.

With cameras supporting the analog TTL mode (Super Program, LX, and others), one must set the ISO on both flash and camera.


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01-09-2015, 11:13 PM   #22
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Opteka FSC-5 Univeral Flash Sync TTL Cord

For those of you who own the T280, I purchased the Opteka off-camera sync cord on eBay ($19.99) and it works great with my K-5 II and T280 flash.

01-14-2015, 01:14 PM   #23
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I have this flash also. I really like it. One thing that was not mentioned is the head will tilt down 15 degrees. With the MS setting on L, this works great for closeups and macros at distances less than 2 feet, and small apertures.
01-14-2015, 03:12 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by bluestringer Quote
I have this flash also. I really like it. One thing that was not mentioned is the head will tilt down 15 degrees. With the MS setting on L, this works great for closeups and macros at distances less than 2 feet, and small apertures.
The light is very clean for such a small flash. Mines boots up in about 4 seconds and recycles in about 2 seconds in Auto. Now that I got the cable I can really get creative, but I think it might be a little too powerful for Macro, maybe close-ups.
01-14-2015, 03:42 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by hjoseph7 Quote
The light is very clean for such a small flash. Mines boots up in about 4 seconds and recycles in about 2 seconds in Auto. Now that I got the cable I can really get creative, but I think it might be a little too powerful for Macro, maybe close-ups.


I put a stofen diffuser on mine and it works good for macro. Also the L setting has a very weak output.
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