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01-31-2015, 10:04 PM   #16
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A full review would be much appreciated I'm sure. Have you tried out the bulb ramping feature for day-to-night time lapses? Does it support going through multiple stages where you remove or add a ND filter to stay within the shutter speed limitations during a long time lapse?

01-31-2015, 10:16 PM - 1 Like   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Trigger Happy Quote
A full review would be much appreciated I'm sure. Have you tried out the bulb ramping feature for day-to-night time lapses? Does it support going through multiple stages where you remove or add a ND filter to stay within the shutter speed limitations during a long time lapse?
Sorry have not tried that yet. Spent all day up on the mountain.

I think this is a useful bit of kit, I will try to get a full report done next week or so.
02-01-2015, 09:05 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by jbinpg Quote
I have been investigating this over the past while for astrophotography purposes. I have found a couple of options that work for me:

The Pclix XT - Pclix XT | Intervalometer | Time-Lapse Triggering | Canon 5D Recording | Video Camera Triggering - Old school in the sense that it uses rotary dials to setup intervals, etc. but well designed. Would easily do
thousands of frames. I couldn't get the IR remote function to work but works fine with the proper cable
available from Pclix.

DSLR Remote - A free Android app that works flawlessly with the K5IIs. All options easy to setup. Does high frame counts. My Android phone
does not have an IR blaster function so again I had to use the cable (cable from Pclix works fine). Cable is better for a long
sequence anyway, IMO, since you don't need to worry about keeping the IR connection intact.

TriggerTrap Mobile - I have ordered this one but have not received it yet. Comes highly recommended. Will report back. Needs a special
camera-mated dongle and cable. The controlling app is free and available for iOS and Android.

One thing to note is that none of the above remote devices support MLU. If that is important to you, I have found a workaround: if you set an interval of at least ten seconds between frames, then you can just lock the mirror up by pressing the shutter release while counting down to the next frame.

There are other cheap options available out there. I looked at a few Chinese ones. There is another mobile app called ShutterBot that may be fine for your needs but it is IR only. Again, you need a phone with an IR blaster function.

Jack
I kept those references as I do some time lapse as well, thanks.
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