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04-28-2015, 07:32 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Fat Albert Quote
I use this one on my fifties and my 35/2.4 when I owned one.
I use 'standard' 50mm hoods on my 35 and my 28.

I bought one on ebay marked telephoto for my fifty. It's four cm long and came with a fitting 58mm cap.

04-28-2015, 08:42 AM   #17
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You can get hoods multiple ways.

Screw-in, Bayonet, and Snap-on are different attachment options.
Screw-in uses the filter thread to attach and therefore must match in size or use step-up rings to attach.
Bayonet are typically OEM only except for a few very popular brands and lenses where knock off hoods are made for them.
Snap-On typically use the filter threads but can also use the lens body (friction). These work as either slip on or like pinch cap lens caps. Either way requires the correct diameter to fit or adapters.

Shapes: Tulip/Petal, Circular/Round, Rectangular
Round hoods are the simplest. They need to be a certain diameter and length to avoid vignetting.
Rectangular hoods are similar in that they are the same length all over but they are wider in one direction which must be aligned with the sensor. If the front of the lens turns during focusing this filter will be a problem to use unless it attaches to a stationary portion of the lens.
Tulip hoods are the most complex. These are the same diameter all over but have lobes that are shorter and longer to take advantage of the sensor shape to give better shading of the lens where the FoV is narrower. Like the Rectangular hoods these must not be rotated or the longer lobes could get in the way.

Materials: Rubber, Plastic, Metal
Rubber is the simple choice. These are often adjustable in length and almost always circular. The adjustments mean that one hood can potentially be used by multiple lenses. The hood can even be cut to a tulip shape by the end user though this is rarely done.
Plastic is the choice of most OEM's. Light and rigid they offer a lot of protection without a lot of weight. These can be in any shape but tulips are more common today particularly on zoom lenses.
Metal is heavier than plastic and most often offered in round but occasionally rectangular ones are found. These are very sturdy and strong and offer a lot of protection in case the lens bangs into things.
04-28-2015, 08:43 AM   #18
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As others have said, bayonet lens hood attachment methods will vary from one manufacturer to another. They can also be very expensive in some cases! Screw-in hoods are universal as long as you use the right diameter. While not as sexy the screw-in hoods will work just as well. They perform the same basic function which is to block out errant light from the side and offer some protection to the front lens element. My advice for best IQ would be to get the deepest hood possible that you can handle which doesn't cause vignetting. Don't let the front element light up like glow ball from the errant light.

Another "trick" is to add filter rings (i.e. cheap filters with the glass knocked out) before the hood. This creates a small mini hood and pushes the main hood further forward just a bit. It effectively makes your main hood a little deeper.
04-28-2015, 08:53 AM   #19
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Boris has it right. The deeper you can get it the better - until you vignette the lens. The tulip hoods offer the best light rejection of all but are complex and hard to find for a specific lens other than from the manufacturer unless you make your own from paper or using a 3d printer.

04-28-2015, 11:40 AM   #20
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The Pentax 50-200 hood should be perfect for any 52mm thread 50mm lens, since the 50-200 is widest at 50mm, natch

Right now I use a tulip 52mm hood on my Rikenon 50 1.4 (and the Sears 50 1.7, and the K 55 f2, and the Rikenon 28 2.8) but I'm planning on getting this one to replace it, and keep the petal one permanently attached to the 28mm: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3WQ3PI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&ps...A1THAZDOWP300U

I think it ships from China though, because shipping estimate is up to a couple of weeks...
04-28-2015, 12:30 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChristianRock Quote
The Pentax 50-200 hood should be perfect for any 52mm thread 50mm lens, since the 50-200 is widest at 50mm, natch
Sorry but I have to disagree, the only way this lens hood would be interchangeable is if it was a screw in which the hood that comes with it,( if it is a metal mount), isn't plus the Pentax 50-200mm is 49mm.

Last edited by Oldbayrunner; 04-28-2015 at 12:36 PM.
04-28-2015, 12:38 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Oldbayrunner Quote
Sorry but I have to disagree, the only way this lens hood would be interchangeable is if it was a screw in which the hood that comes with it isn't plus the Pentax 50-200mm is 49mm.
I agree that the bayonet hood only fits specific lenses. The threads on the other hand could be 49mm or 52mm depending on which 50-200 he has. The SMC DA is 52mm, the WR version is 49mm... don't ask me how that happened. Seems really odd to me.

04-28-2015, 12:39 PM   #23
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You guys are right, I was looking at the non-WR version - which is 52. But still, there is such a hood.
04-28-2015, 12:43 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChristianRock Quote
You guys are right, I was looking at the non-WR version - which is 52. But still, there is such a hood.
Correct - but it only fits on using a Bayonet if you mean the Pentax one. It won't fit any 3rd party lens and doesn't use the filter threads to attach.

The 3rd party one you picked should work otherwise. I am not certain of the length of that vs. what is needed to avoid vignetting.
04-28-2015, 12:58 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
Correct - but it only fits on using a Bayonet if you mean the Pentax one. It won't fit any 3rd party lens and doesn't use the filter threads to attach.

The 3rd party one you picked should work otherwise. I am not certain of the length of that vs. what is needed to avoid vignetting.
Well, that's what I was getting at. Judging by the size of the 50-200mm hood, the one I picked should be just fine. We'll find out. If it vignettes on the 50, I'll use it with the K 55 and maybe even with the A 135 2.8, because that lens really needs something bigger than the built-in hood, it flares very badly...
04-28-2015, 01:08 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChristianRock Quote
Well, that's what I was getting at. Judging by the size of the 50-200mm hood, the one I picked should be just fine. We'll find out. If it vignettes on the 50, I'll use it with the K 55 and maybe even with the A 135 2.8, because that lens really needs something bigger than the built-in hood, it flares very badly...
Ack! That makes sense. Sorry if I was dense earlier. The A 135 2.8 has a hood designed for Full Frame use so it is too short for APSC maximum benefit. A longer hood than this one should work. There are calculators that were mentioned and websites where you can determine the rough diameter and length you need.
04-28-2015, 01:14 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
Ack! That makes sense. Sorry if I was dense earlier. The A 135 2.8 has a hood designed for Full Frame use so it is too short for APSC maximum benefit. A longer hood than this one should work. There are calculators that were mentioned and websites where you can determine the rough diameter and length you need.
I'm pretty sure you could use a much longer hood on the A 135 2.8, even on full frame. That thing was definitely not designed to only let the full frame circle in. I would say you could have a hood 2-3 times longer and it would still work on a full frame camera. Built-in hoods are tiny because of barrel inner size restrictions. I can say that based on my 70-300 hood which is enormous (and is fine for FF at 70mm).
04-28-2015, 01:24 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChristianRock Quote
I'm pretty sure you could use a much longer hood on the A 135 2.8, even on full frame. That thing was definitely not designed to only let the full frame circle in. I would say you could have a hood 2-3 times longer and it would still work on a full frame camera. Built-in hoods are tiny because of barrel inner size restrictions. I can say that based on my 70-300 hood which is enormous (and is fine for FF at 70mm).
I don't own that lens and can't say if that's accurate but one of the hood calculators should be able to confirm or deny that theory.
04-28-2015, 01:52 PM   #29
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Thanks for the help all. Since I'm now an "all in" fully invested Pantex user I just ordered these:

New Metal Standard 49mm Screw in Lens Hood Cap | eBay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121399305556?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I think they will work out pretty well but will probably be ordering more in the future depending on my experiences.

What do you all think about the "vented" hoods? What is the purpose of the vents? Are the vented hoods better in any way?

04-28-2015, 02:20 PM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by philodragon Quote
Thanks for the help all. Since I'm now an "all in" fully invested Pantex user I just ordered these:

New Metal Standard 49mm Screw in Lens Hood Cap | eBay

52mm Soft Rubber Lens Hood F Canon Nikon Pentax JVC Panasonic Fuji More | eBay

I think they will work out pretty well but will probably be ordering more in the future depending on my experiences.

What do you all think about the "vented" hoods? What is the purpose of the vents? Are the vented hoods better in any way?
The vents are for rangefinder camera use, like Canon or Leica.

The rangefinder and viewfinder's views are sometimes partially blocked by the hoods. With the vents, some of that blocked area is no longer occluded.

Vented hoods can be used on an SLR. Years ago they were more expensive.
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