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03-14-2016, 03:07 AM - 1 Like   #1
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Peak Design Slide add-on

I really like the Peak Design Slide, but not trusting my motor skills in all situations I made a simple safety add-on to the strap. I now feel more secure handling the anchor connections in the field.
It's made from synthetic drawstring, heat shrink tubing and a stainless steel snap hook.


EDIT. Since this was first posted I've found that the black Slide has a softer leather and that the knot could be retracted if enough force is applied. The blue one shown in the photos has more firm leather so here a simple knot is sufficient. There might be more variations so I do recommend that if you make something like this, do test the security and make sure that the knot can't be pulled back.

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Last edited by Bengan; 02-19-2017 at 01:27 AM.
03-14-2016, 09:16 AM   #2
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Thanks -- I see your point here. This is one "slick" strap. You forgot the knot tying lesson for those of us who haven't been a boy scout in awhile: Recommendations? Also, would you now consider the new slimmer model of the Slide, taking a nearly 29 ounce K3 + the big Sigma 35mm/f.1.4 as a point of reference; or from your experience, would you conclude that the wider original is still the way to go?
03-14-2016, 09:46 AM   #3
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Interesting mod. Good thinking!

I did indeed read about the first version of the Slide straps sometimes coming loose, however the newer versions have an improved design of the cords on the connectors that would prevent this from happening, or so they say at least... I believe the internals of the cords are now bright red, which should act as a clear warning sign when they would start wearing off, and when it's time to replace them...

I've had my K-3II on this strap (albeit a simple black one) for some time, and so far it held up very well. No wear whatsoever.

When changing straps in the field the human factor enters the picture as you state, and here your solution is a great one indeed. I've dropped my share of gear while quickly moving it about under pressure (my wife's inpatience mostly ).

@Kayaker-J: Which strap is best depends I guess. I'm sure the slim version will work just as fine, the "weakest link" being the connectors (=the same with both straps). I personally prefer a wide strap for better weight distribution, hence my using this size. I would even prefer it slightly wider still (my previous strap was a LowePro Voyager C, now discontinued). Of course a wider strap is more cumbersome to stow, so if that's an issue and you don't mind a narrower strap, the slim version may be better for you?

hth, Wim
03-14-2016, 10:04 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kayaker-J Quote
Thanks -- I see your point here. This is one "slick" strap. You forgot the knot tying lesson for those of us who haven't been a boy scout in awhile: Recommendations? Also, would you now consider the new slimmer model of the Slide, taking a nearly 29 ounce K3 + the big Sigma 35mm/f.1.4 as a point of reference; or from your experience, would you conclude that the wider original is still the way to go?

Knots are simple. Rather than trying to find English names for them I'll show them in a picture.


If you are referring to the Slide Light I haven't tested that one. The anchors are the same so it's definitely strong enough. It's only 32 mm and lacks the shoulder padding so if you are to carry the setup around for a couple of hours I'd go with the standard padded 45 mm.
I also have the smaller Leach but that one cuts in to my shoulder when worn as a sling strap for a longer period of time. I use that one primarily as a "security strap"

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03-14-2016, 10:16 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ishpuini Quote
Interesting mod. Good thinking!

I did indeed read about the first version of the Slide straps sometimes coming loose, however the newer versions have an improved design of the cords on the connectors that would prevent this from happening, or so they say at least... I believe the internals of the cords are now bright red, which should act as a clear warning sign when they would start wearing off, and when it's time to replace them...

I've had my K-3II on this strap (albeit a simple black one) for some time, and so far it held up very well. No wear whatsoever.

When changing straps in the field the human factor enters the picture as you state, and here your solution is a great one indeed. I've dropped my share of gear while quickly moving it about under pressure (my wife's inpatience mostly ).

@Kayaker-J: Which strap is best depends I guess. I'm sure the slim version will work just as fine, the "weakest link" being the connectors (=the same with both straps). I personally prefer a wide strap for better weight distribution, hence my using this size. I would even prefer it slightly wider still (my previous strap was a LowePro Voyager C, now discontinued). Of course a wider strap is more cumbersome to stow, so if that's an issue and you don't mind a narrower strap, the slim version may be better for you?

hth, Wim
Thanks. In my case, I expect to support a DSLR load most of the time with B-Grip and Spider Black Widow belt holsters (or Cotton Carrier vest); or borne at the ready inside a partially closed Lowepro Passport Sling II, or similar less structured bag, hitched up to offer support from below. I'll be avoiding the long afternoons with 'walkaround zoom' on K3/K-1 scenario this way. This is why I like the PD connectors best -- fast on, fast off, with one hand... and less drooping around the camera's grip area. It's a matter of if I even need the regular strap in addition to the thinner, stowable Leash. You can save a few bucks on a package deal by figuring this out up front.

---------- Post added 03-14-16 at 01:24 PM ----------

Thank you, Bengan, for the close-up. I can follow that! You can see how I expect to utilize the PD gear above. I decided against their clip system, which seems to have come out of the design oven somewhat half-baked (just add a $29.95 accessory pad to fix the stability shortcomings of our second generation design!). I had missed the lack of padding in the newer strap, so thanks for the tip on that.

Last edited by Kayaker-J; 03-14-2016 at 11:48 AM.
02-16-2017, 09:04 AM - 1 Like   #6
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Last weekend this extra safety made my day when the bottom plate attached to my K-1 accidently unscrewed and fell off when I was out walking. All I had to do was fasten the plate again (and restart my heart).
02-18-2017, 09:36 AM   #7
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Question I have, is it possible for the knot to slip thru? Would it be safer to attach it to the hardware?

Hope the OP doesn't mind my using his photo to demonstrate what I mean.
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02-18-2017, 10:39 AM   #8
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I don't mind.
With the blue slide I have really tried to pull it back, but the knot is big enough. I did the same with a black model and the knot could be pulled back with excessive force. On the black slide the leather is a bit softer.
To be absolutely sure, just take a peace of string, make a knot and try to pull it back through. If it's possible, just make a knot with the end folded. In that way the knot will be "double" in size.

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02-18-2017, 10:55 AM   #9
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Thanks so much! I think this is a great idea, for "just in case"!

Thanks for sharing it with us, also!
02-18-2017, 01:37 PM   #10
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I like what you've done

your cordage appears to be a hollow braid
I use cut off knitting needles or super needles (?) as fids and make eye splices
a dab of super glue and you are done

I just hate tying knots...always have

I do love heat shrink
one of the techs I worked with used it to repair the aiglets on his shoelaces

since you've already done this for your strap
you can also attach a similar cord from camera to holster
essentially negating the effects of gravity

if I wasn't such a tragic klutz I wouldn't know about this stuff
02-18-2017, 02:23 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by ccc_ Quote
I use cut off knitting needles or super needles (?) as fids and make eye splicesa dab of super glue and you are done I just hate tying knots...always have

I wish I could make a splice. My dad knew how, but I never learned. I'm an all knot tying guy. And, yes heat shrink is so useful for all sorts of things.
02-18-2017, 02:46 PM - 1 Like   #12
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eye splice

Eye Splice | How to tie the Eye Splice | Splicing Knots

http://www.samsonrope.com/Documents/Splice%20Instructions/3Strand_C1_Eye%20S...UL2012_WEB.pdf
02-18-2017, 03:57 PM   #13
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I use this to carry my knife and camera on-stream
as long as you have a fid and hollow cordage, it is simple

braiding twisted rope is a real skill
I don't have any of those

another alternative is to fold your cord back
put a stitch or two through the resulting two strands
slide the tubing over the splice
heat it with a lighter, match or heat gun

thx, mister fox I should have done that
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02-18-2017, 04:22 PM   #14
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You're welcome

No expert, boy scout training a long time ago

Knots actually weakens a rope I was told so that is why you splice,

Back (end) splice (keeps end of rope from unraveling),

eye splice (forms loop) and

long splice (joins two pieces of rope) were all taught to me a long time ago

"Fid": something you insert to separate the twists of the rope so you can insert the end through it could be anything strong enough to insert and not break - blunt flat screw driver is what I was taught to use

Last edited by aslyfox; 02-18-2017 at 04:35 PM.
02-18-2017, 04:31 PM   #15
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Agree. Burning the end of the knot loop almost always prevents fraying and eventual untying.
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