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04-23-2016, 08:56 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by cpritchardv Quote
I've been using Microsoft ICE for a long time. I've only ever shot hand held panoramas, but the program does a very very good job of stitching everything together, and is very easy to use. I've tried numerous other software, and demoed more expensive ones, but in my very amateur opinion, ICE did a better job than all of them. Also its free, which is a plus. The only downside is that it wont work on Mac.
+1 for MS ICE!

It's free. Try it with the same images to make a pano and see what it produces.

04-24-2016, 06:54 AM - 1 Like   #17
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I use a cheap macro rail I bought off of ebay for peanuts (such as this 2 Way Macro Shot Focusing Focus Rail Slider for Canon Nikon Sony Camera D SLR | eBay) to account for parallax. Maybe not as good as a true nodal slider but it works and it gets your feet wet with the panoramas.

From then, you will need to adjust for parallax for your lens.. I'm sure there's probably a super accurate, technical way to do this, but I mostly just slide the camera back and forth and then pan the camera until the objects stop moving wildly in the frame. If this is completely alien to you, I'd recommend youtube where there are examples of this effect and the mitigation of it with a nodal slider.

The other key point, already mentioned by others, is to make sure you get enough overlap in your shots. That's rather crucial.. even if your setup is set correctly.
04-24-2016, 06:24 PM   #18
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Thanks, all. I got some good ideas from all of your responses. I think that a level and an L-bracket may be the things I look into next. My tripod has a level built in, but given that the mount isn't horizontal when I'm using it for panoramic shots, it's not of any use.
04-25-2016, 05:45 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by k34ever Quote
Here's an example. I don't know if you can see it very well in the size that Flickr displays it, but there are a few places where things don't line up properly -- some of the lines in the building or in the garage doors, and also the curb in some places:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/24897072@N00/26598387455/in/datetaken/
Overhead power lines are notoriously difficult to stitch with any software. It is best to avoid having these in your pano if you can. Or edit them out.

Featureless sky is another one to avoid - it is hard to find good control points there. For this shot I would have done a planar pano, going closer to the warehouse and moving along a few meters between each shot.

Hand-held panos are not difficult - if you have good software. A pano head is really only necessary if you are trying to avoid parallax, i.e if you have objects in the foreground.

04-26-2016, 08:39 AM - 1 Like   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Quartermaster James Quote
+1 for MS ICE!

It's free. Try it with the same images to make a pano and see what it produces.
The images I posted were done with ICE, and are much better than what I got with other software I tried.
04-29-2016, 01:09 PM   #21
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I picked up a bubble level and an L-bracket. One thing I noticed is that when I level my tripod by adjusting the ball head, it's not level when I rotate it. So perhaps I need a different kind of head?
04-29-2016, 02:26 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by k34ever Quote
I picked up a bubble level and an L-bracket. One thing I noticed is that when I level my tripod by adjusting the ball head, it's not level when I rotate it. So perhaps I need a different kind of head?
if the level is located on the top of the ballhead it is pretty useless for panoramas. i usually use the level indicator in LV and rotate the head in the area i am interested in, if the picture remains more or less horizontal i leave everything as it is, otherwise i adjust the tripod till i get an acceptable small error.
QuoteOriginally posted by k34ever Quote
The images I posted were done with ICE, and are much better than what I got with other software I tried.
the results in ICE are quite good from the beginning but you have limited options to intervene when something goes wrong, therefore i started to use hugin because of the possibility to add controllpoints to improve the stitch and the option to mask some objects out that have a negative impact on the result. (it can be timeconsuming but in the end i usually get better stitches than with ICE).

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