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10-06-2008, 10:58 AM   #46
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QuoteOriginally posted by marcdsgn Quote
By the way, the whole "exploding" thing, while you never said that would happen, deuces' post implied the possibility, and as I couldn't see anything in your first post to refute the idea, I simply assumed it was still a possibililty worth pursuing.
Lithium combusts, but it doesn't "explode" as some might say.
Of course, anything that would "combust" in a confined space where the "escape" is blocked might cause the materials around it to "explode out."

Lithium batteries tend to combust on polarity reversal and transients that act similar.
This is quite unlike many Iron, Nickel, etc... chemistry types that warm up and eventually melt.

That's why Lithium chemicals must be regulated, among other things (like minimum voltage before cells die), etc...
The cheaper the Lithium battery, the more likely it has little to no regulation in cells.

10-07-2008, 01:31 PM   #47
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How about this explanation?

Normally, when you buy a pack of batteries, the package will tell you the voltage and current rating. For example, a digital camera might use four nickel-cadmium batteries that are rated at 1.25 volts and 500 milliamp-hours for each cell. The milliamp-hour rating means, theoretically, that the cell can produce 500 milliamps for one hour. You can slice and dice the milliamp-hour rating in lots of different ways. A 500 milliamp-hour battery could produce 5 milliamps for 100 hours, or 10 milliamps for 50 hours, or 25 milliamps for 20 hours, or (theoretically) 500 milliamps for 1 hour, or even 1,000 milliamps for 30 minutes.

However, batteries are not quite that linear. For one thing, all batteries have a maximum current they can produce -- a 500 milliamp-hour battery cannot produce 30,000 milliamps for 1 second, because there is no way for the battery's chemical reactions to happen that quickly. And at higher current levels, batteries can produce a lot of heat, which wastes some of their power. Also, many battery chemistries have longer- or shorter-than-expected lives at very low current levels. But milliamp-hour ratings are somewhat linear over a normal range of use. Using the amp-hour rating, you can roughly estimate how long the battery will last under a given load.
10-07-2008, 08:47 PM   #48
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QuoteOriginally posted by graphicgr8s Quote
How about this explanation?

Normally, when you buy a pack of batteries, the package will tell you the voltage and current rating. For example, a digital camera might use four nickel-cadmium batteries that are rated at 1.25 volts and 500 milliamp-hours for each cell. The milliamp-hour rating means, theoretically, that the cell can produce 500 milliamps for one hour. You can slice and dice the milliamp-hour rating in lots of different ways. A 500 milliamp-hour battery could produce 5 milliamps for 100 hours, or 10 milliamps for 50 hours, or 25 milliamps for 20 hours, or (theoretically) 500 milliamps for 1 hour, or even 1,000 milliamps for 30 minutes.

However, batteries are not quite that linear. For one thing, all batteries have a maximum current they can produce -- a 500 milliamp-hour battery cannot produce 30,000 milliamps for 1 second, because there is no way for the battery's chemical reactions to happen that quickly. And at higher current levels, batteries can produce a lot of heat, which wastes some of their power. Also, many battery chemistries have longer- or shorter-than-expected lives at very low current levels. But milliamp-hour ratings are somewhat linear over a normal range of use. Using the amp-hour rating, you can roughly estimate how long the battery will last under a given load.
Works for me.
10-07-2008, 11:33 PM   #49
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ever thought of this? lmao.... sorry, i had to lol

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10-09-2008, 05:08 PM   #50
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QuoteOriginally posted by deuces Quote
Image removed

Sorry, feeling playful. Bryan, awesome hardcore post!
Do we really need vulgarities on here?
10-10-2008, 02:59 PM   #51
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QuoteOriginally posted by graphicgr8s Quote
Do we really need vulgarities on here?
Wow, I got a moderator PM, for a 2 point infraction for vulgarities. I'm guessing it was you. Sorry, didn't mean to offend! I thought the humor of the picture far outweighed the language (WRONG!).

(And I ought to read the rules more carefully)
10-10-2008, 05:54 PM   #52
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QuoteOriginally posted by deuces Quote
Wow, I got a moderator PM, for a 2 point infraction for vulgarities. I'm guessing it was you. Sorry, didn't mean to offend! I thought the humor of the picture far outweighed the language (WRONG!).

(And I ought to read the rules more carefully)
Nope, it wasn't me. I was just concerned if a kid saw it. But I thought to give you a week or so to get rid of it. If you didn't I would have PM'd you and just asked in case you hadn't been on to see the post. And if you still didn't then I'd have just not come back to the thread.
George

10-13-2008, 07:35 AM   #53
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I don't take offense to playful posts.
I don't even take offense to many things.

I only take offense when people trash the goodwill of others, especially a community.
That's what I consider "vulgarity" at its finest.

A lot of times people stand behind rules to take retribution on others.
I've not only seen it, but I've been the victim of it many times myself.
11-07-2008, 09:14 AM   #54
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So feedback so far says that the:

ACD229 Adorama Replacement Rechargeable Lithium Ion Battery for Pentax DLI50 and Minolta NP-400 Digital Camera Battery, 7.4 Volts, 1500mAh.

Impact | DL150 Rechargeable Lithium-ion Battery | DL150 | B&H

Konica Minolta NP-400 Lithium-Ion Battery (7.4v 1500mAh)

are reliable replacements; any others?

QuoteOriginally posted by patrickt Quote
I got my K10D in January, 2007, and it came with the Pentax battery and an Impact battery from B&H. I alternated the two for a year. Then my sister brought me a third Impact battery. Now I alternate the three. One in the camera, one in my bag, one in the charger. I don't wait for the battery to totally run down before swapping. In the eighteen months, I've seen absolutely no difference in the Pentax and the Impact battery and in the last six months, no difference among the three.
11-07-2008, 02:50 PM   #55
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I noted several users of Pentax cameras having issues, others having no issues, whereas all Minolta users did not at all, on the Minolta.

After three (3) full months of usage of three (3) Pentax branded batteries I paid $35-38/each (one came with the K20D itself), all have given me well over 1,000 shots/each without fail. With these batteries, I've already clicked some 10,000+ shots on my new K20D traveling/following my Alma Mater's football team and taking in other scenery on other trips (I fly an average of 2-3 times/week for work, in addition to personal). It's nice to get a full charge each and every time and not have to worry about any issues.

I'll let you know if a single unit fails or stops holding sufficient charge, but I think I'm good-to-go. BTW, I'm using the Pentax branded chargers as well -- one that came with the K20D and another I bought for $38. Statistically I expect one to fail by six (6) months, which would be nominal (at least at my rate of usage). I'm probably a bit "hard" on them too since I fully charge and then it may be weeks before I actually use that unit (Li-Ion should be at 30-50% charge for storage, long story).

Yes, they are +$20. Even the few ultra-cheap replacements I found for sub-$10 had steep shipping, more than the battery and making them $20 shipped/each, even in quantity. But it's nice to have some piece-of-mind with my K20D system that cost me over $2,000. I guess it's because I'm a traditional engineer, but it's easy to stick with the Pentax branded when they are only +1% increase in cost to get the branded chargers and batteries.

In fact, I suspect the one reviewer than complained about failures with both the after-market (1 day) and Pentax (3 day) used a non-Pentax charger. When it comes to Li-Ion, which are very exacting and very proprietary in design, I don't like to f-around. Designing microelectronics where tolerance to variances and seeing the profile of rechargeable Li-Ion tends to make you that anal.
11-07-2008, 03:41 PM   #56
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8 months of use on 2 bodies (K10D & K20D); 2 Pentax D-LI50s and 6 Konica/Minolta NP-400s from B&H and 10,000+ shutter actuations later I have to date had zero issues related to anything battery related. And I have experienced any difference in charge life worthy of notice.

FWIW, you can pay $40+ per battery or you can pay $10.
11-08-2008, 01:12 PM   #57
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QuoteOriginally posted by Venturi Quote
FWIW, you can pay $40+ per battery or you can pay $10.
$10 shipped? Where? I've yet to find such. Most I've seen are $20+ shipped.

As I said, $20 shipped to sub-$40 shipped, is a difference of $20.
My K20D + DA 16-50 f/2.8 + DA 50-135 f/2.8 was over a $2,000 system.
So to pay for a Pentax branded battery, that was a $20 / $2,000 = 0.01 = 1% premium.

It's everyone's choice own choice.

If this was a simple, common Nickel or other chemistry that doesn't require active regulation in the unit and is non-proprietary, I wouldn't care.
But this is Li-Ion, which have active regulation in the unit, is certified, design, integration and regression tested for a particular device.
As someone who has seen variations against voltage regulators driving microelectronics from rechargeable Lithium chemistries, I mitigate risk first'n foremost.

In this case, a +1% system cost is a no-brainer from a risk mitigation standpoint.
11-08-2008, 02:38 PM   #58
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QuoteOriginally posted by bjsmith Quote
$10 shipped? Where? I've yet to find such. Most I've seen are $20+ shipped.
I didn't say shipped. But...

$46.95 + shipping: Pentax | D-LI50 Rechargeable Li-Ion Battery | 39581 | B&H Photo
$9.95 + shipping: Konica Minolta | NP-400 Lithium-Ion Battery | 8699X001 | B&H Photo
FWIW - shipping on these is $4.95 CONUS up to a quantity of 3. At 4 the shipping goes up to $5.90.

So, even though the K/M batteries are rated slightly lower on MAh, they're 20% of the price. So, you can buy FOUR of them shipped for less than a single Pentax branded battery.

Note that I have never said in this thread or any other that the generic replacement batteries (like the Impacts and otheres) are worth even $0.01. However, I seriously doubt any QA issues exist in the Konica/Minolta Manufacturer's OEM batteries.

My take on these, and only these, batteries is if you just prefer to have Pentax batteries because you either want the brand stamped on everything you own or you want to boost Hoya's bottom line with every purchase - then by all means buy the Pentax batteries. But if your own bottom line is more important to you than Hoya's then buy the K/Ms.
11-10-2008, 08:23 AM   #59
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QuoteOriginally posted by Venturi Quote
So, even though the K/M batteries are rated slightly lower on MAh, they're 20% of the price. So, you can buy FOUR of them shipped for less than a single Pentax branded battery.
Fair enough.
QuoteOriginally posted by Venturi Quote
Note that I have never said in this thread or any other that the generic replacement batteries (like the Impacts and otheres) are worth even $0.01. However, I seriously doubt any QA issues exist in the Konica/Minolta Manufacturer's OEM batteries.
My continued point is two-fold:

1) Quality of the battery unit, generically, which you addressed with your statements,

2) The design being for another end-unit, as Li-Ion is a device-specific, proprietary battery technology (not generic). There's 10x more to it than alleged mAh rating.

QuoteOriginally posted by Venturi Quote
My take on these, and only these, batteries is if you just prefer to have Pentax batteries because you either want the brand stamped on everything you own or you want to boost Hoya's bottom line with every purchase - then by all means buy the Pentax batteries. But if your own bottom line is more important to you than Hoya's then buy the K/Ms.
Then I must be an idiot and making things up.
Please leave everyone to make their own decisions, based on more factors than you say there are.
11-10-2008, 02:37 PM   #60
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What I want to know is where some of you get those nifty, plastic caps to go over the contact end of your battery packs for the K10/K20? I have been keeping my spare dl150 battery in part of it's original packing to make sure nothing comes in contact with the poles and discharges it in any way. Does this make sense to anyone else or pose a real concern? Where can we look for those clear, polyethylene like caps for the 150/NP400 rechargable batteries?
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