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01-26-2017, 04:35 AM - 1 Like   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by dcshooter Quote
Exactly, which is why I was assuming the poste rabove was talking about the catchlight card, which does act a bit like a light scoop diffuser.
Since softness of light is determined by the apparent size of the source, that catchlight card doesn't act like a Rogue Bender, which is bigger than the flash head.

01-26-2017, 06:24 AM   #17
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This is one of my diy mini-softbox built out of hotglue, duct tape (the newer versions use classy black), white foamcore (a white interior helps light bounce around inside for a more uniform coverage) and parchment paper as a diffusion panel on the front. I've built a few versions, some have an extra parchment paper baffle inside for a more even light source:



Portable Frog Studio
by Brian Robin, on Flickr

The size of your softbox/diffuser depend on its use. As clackers has mentioned, it's the apparent size of the light source that matters for soft shadows. A lightsource 4 or 5 inches wide will be 'soft' when placed an inch or two away from coffee beans. Having a smaller softbox construction can be easier to work with, especially if you're hand holding on a bracket.

You can also steal the above mentioned Flash Bender design, in a pinch I've strapped a piece of white cardboard to the flash in the same fashion as the Flash Bender to make a jacked up catch-light panel. Up close, to a little macro subject, a small 6x8" piece of cardboard acts as a relatively massive light source to bounce off of.

The advantage of wee subjects - a little piece of paper or card board goes a long way as a lighting modifier.
05-18-2017, 05:11 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by photolady95 Quote
I built my own diffuser from a model I saw on here built by user member Rense
Where is the pic of it? Thanks
05-18-2017, 05:43 PM - 1 Like   #19
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An old dirty trick would be to get some white facial or toilet tissue, and tape or velcro it across the front of the flash. More layers of tissue makes for more diffusion. (to a point.. too much will just block a lot of the light.)

It's not as a good as a soft box, but in a pinch, it might just get the job done.

Making a balloon of tissue in the front might do more than taping it right against the front, as well.. but that's some seriously crafty scotch taping to get that done! (and afterwards you'll probably want to use surgical spirits to clean off any residue from any adhesives used.)

06-26-2017, 12:58 PM - 2 Likes   #20
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If you live close to Home Depot, you can pick up a HALO 5150WH 5" recessed shower trim for a ceiling mounted light (item 1001-862-502 - UPC080083757664) for less than $20US. Cut four thin slots in the rear circular shell that will allow the aluminum to spread apart slightly, and slide the AF201 into place using some hobby foam to cushion it and keep it from being scratched. The two wire springs on the front can be removed and a tripod mount screwed to the same circular shell (threaded rod connector and bolt) at the rear, and you have a great flash diffuser for the AF201. A frosted glass (yes, it's glass - you might want to sub a plastic diffuser to lighten up the unit) is provided. You want just the front of the AF201 to slide into the rear of the aluminum housing so it will be well spaced from the frosted glass front for even illumination (you can also use the flip-up panel on the AF201 itself to vary the output if needed). The front bezel is removable but you might want to silicone it in place or slide in a small bit of foam to tighten it up so it's not so loose. On the other hand, removing the front gives you one more option with a narrower field (a bit like a snoot on the flash).
I would also advise supporting the assembly from the tripod mount and not the AF201. Also, it's very wise to use a strip of gaffer tape on the top side of the AF201 to secure it just in case.
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Last edited by Bob 256; 06-26-2017 at 02:53 PM.
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