[Wheatfield]

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lol, thanks I think I understand more now, like shooting a scene from behind a window, of course that window glass matters in terms of how well I see beyond it! doh!

Sorry, you should perhaps read my follow up reply, certain hoods I cannot use or are hard to obtain, and I need the filters in a hurry. Hoods are not an option here.

Sorry, you should perhaps consider full disclosure in your OP rather than making people read an entire thread just to try to give you a helpful reply.

[BruceBanner]

Sorry, you should perhaps consider full disclosure in your OP rather than making people read an entire thread just to try to give you a helpful reply.

Yep, that's why I said 'sorry' and pointed to that fact

I do however find it useful to read the replies of other posters as well as specifically any more posts from the OP in case extra and new information comes to light. Top Bruce tip

[SSGGeezer]

Add a Kood 27 to 49 MM ring and put a good filter on that, then a easy to acquire 49mm cap can be used. I put the Kood and a Hoya Red enhancement filter on my 40xs for astro. On my M 135 I bought it and it had a UV and a clear filter on it when I received it and I found that the IQ was soooo much better without. I was unhappy till the filters got taken off.

[Alex645]

If you can't find B+W, then in decending order of quality and price:

Heliopan, Hoya, Tiffen.

Note that Schott glass is considered one of the best optical glass and that a multi-coated filter could have two to over 16 layers of coatings. The web site or literature that comes with the filter at the camera store should specify this.

[Ron Boggs]

OP has decided it sounds...I recommend B+W and/or Heliopan if you aren't using heirloom Pentax SMC filters. I use a mix of the three.

I shoot 100% outdoor and after a few hours afield there's almost always cleaning needed...why shoot through chip n chunks and splats and smears? Cleaning after each day of use is hard on front elements, thus high quality filters to take the cleaning. Once had a filter save my FA* 80-200 when checked as luggage (big lenses were carried on). Filter glass and rim were crunched, even in a hard case...must've been strong gorillas! (It was my only non-Pelican case and I haven't used it since).

[ChrisPlatt]

B + W, Schneider, Rodenstock, Heliopan - anything made in Germany is top quality.
They still use brass rings, which are much less likely to get stuck on your lens.

Chris

[beachgardener]

Mainline has Heliopan
Filters - Mainline Photographics

Michaels have B+W
B+W - michaels camera video digital

https://www.schneideroptics.com/Ecommerce/CatalogSubCategoryDisplay.aspx?CID=57

[tibbitts]

To me the issue is partly that filters are easier to clean than front elements, particularly the very newest filters with the latest coatings vs. older coatings. But in general it's easier to wipe a flat surface, and I frequently get rain or spray (salt or otherwise) or on my lenses, despite using fairly deep hoods. The lenses have to be wiped frequently, sometimes between every shot (like recently at a waterfall), and I'd rather do that with a filter that can be replaced.

In extreme flare situations where damage is less likely, it's best to take the filter off, of course.

I'm curious about the UV vs. clear arguments: I would think that on digital there is at least no disadvantage to UV, but would be interested in evidence to the contrary.

[BrianR]

Also I have read that that particular hood is not very good in its purpose for the DFA 100mm, hence thinking of ditching it for a more compact lens and instead using a filter for protection. The lens hood of the DFA 100mm doubles the overall length of the lens...

At close focus distances, the barrel extends so far that the hood is blocking very little stray light. It is useful at blocking stray light at 'normal' distances where the barrel has barely extended and it's always useful as a physical protection barrier. That said, I don't usually bother with it (I'm typically using it up close and almost always in nice and controlled circumstances), but it does come out when there is more randomness in the environment (like other people).

Possibly a crazy idea, but can you put step up rings on your da15mm and your da40mm to get them to 49mm? Then all your lenses (I think?) have the same front cap size, making lens swaps using front caps simpler.

[BruceBanner]

OP has decided it sounds...I recommend B+W and/or Heliopan if you aren't using heirloom Pentax SMC filters. I use a mix of the three.

I shoot 100% outdoor and after a few hours afield there's almost always cleaning needed...why shoot through chip n chunks and splats and smears? Cleaning after each day of use is hard on front elements, thus high quality filters to take the cleaning. Once had a filter save my FA* 80-200 when checked as luggage (big lenses were carried on). Filter glass and rim were crunched, even in a hard case...must've been strong gorillas! (It was my only non-Pelican case and I haven't used it since).

B + W, Schneider, Rodenstock, Heliopan - anything made in Germany is top quality.
They still use brass rings, which are much less likely to get stuck on your lens.

Chris

I had my mind semi made up lol, I tend to rant and let my poor brain thoughts ooze all over this forum to the unfortunate members eyes to see

The cleaning lens thing is something that started to cross my mind, although I rarely touch the front element, if I was to go front cap off I could see the finger occasionally touch the lens glass, even if it is a tad recessed. I dunno... if IQ isn't compromised it seems a fairly affordable solution (see more below on that price and brand choice I went with).

Mainline has Heliopan
Filters - Mainline Photographics

Michaels have B+W
B+W - michaels camera video digital

https://www.schneideroptics.com/Ecommerce/CatalogSubCategoryDisplay.aspx?CID=57

Thanks, didn't know about those companies, and you sparked me on a better hunt for a different (but apparently equal) brand

To me the issue is partly that filters are easier to clean than front elements, particularly the very newest filters with the latest coatings vs. older coatings. But in general it's easier to wipe a flat surface, and I frequently get rain or spray (salt or otherwise) or on my lenses, despite using fairly deep hoods. The lenses have to be wiped frequently, sometimes between every shot (like recently at a waterfall), and I'd rather do that with a filter that can be replaced.

In extreme flare situations where damage is less likely, it's best to take the filter off, of course.

I'm curious about the UV vs. clear arguments: I would think that on digital there is at least no disadvantage to UV, but would be interested in evidence to the contrary.

Well I googled and found an old Pentax thread as well as this link; UV filters test - Description of the results and summary - LensTip.com

If you look at the pictures, even the filters that are further down the list, I don't honestly think the image degradation is something to be worried about. For me the positives outweigh the negatives. I ended up getting two 49mm Hoya HMC UV Filters for $25 each, heck of a lot cheaper than B+W which were $90 each and apparently in the same league at least in terms of IQ. I'll see how well they go with a wipe and clean. For sure I am happy to try a different brand later, maybe when there is a price drop etc and compare in terms of cleaning ease.

At close focus distances, the barrel extends so far that the hood is blocking very little stray light. It is useful at blocking stray light at 'normal' distances where the barrel has barely extended and it's always useful as a physical protection barrier. That said, I don't usually bother with it (I'm typically using it up close and almost always in nice and controlled circumstances), but it does come out when there is more randomness in the environment (like other people).

Possibly a crazy idea, but can you put step up rings on your da15mm and your da40mm to get them to 49mm? Then all your lenses (I think?) have the same front cap size, making lens swaps using front caps simpler.

I did put a UV ring on my DA15mm, I was intending to break the glass but in the end I just left it on and felt it didn't degrade anything (not that I really tested). I needed the 'step up filter' in order to attach ND filters and the like.

With the DA40mm XS I am reluctant to really get anything. It's major advantage is its thinness, I don't really want a hood on it, but perhaps a UV filter might not harm the size aspect. My other lenses have a recess, the 40mm XS not so much, I think it may always need a cap. Mind you, as soon as I apply a filter onto any lens and place in pouch with cap off, the filter will collect more lint than the recessed front element I bet. So it's a case of ditching the cap for speed but then having to use a rocket blower more often I bet.

[Na Horuk]

With the DA40mm XS I am reluctant to really get anything. It's major advantage is its thinness, I don't really want a hood on it, but perhaps a UV filter might not harm the size aspect. My other lenses have a recess, the 40mm XS not so much, I think it may always need a cap. Mind you, as soon as I apply a filter onto any lens and place in pouch with cap off, the filter will collect more lint than the recessed front element I bet. So it's a case of ditching the cap for speed but then having to use a rocket blower more often I bet.

I lost the original lens cap of the 40mm XS and bought a 27mm UV filter for it. It was cheap and I used it as a lens cap. If need be, I took photos with it, as it did not degrade IQ a lot (very light sharpness loss, flare was more of a problem). But when I knew I would be photographing for a while, I took off the filter. Eventually I lost the 27mm filter as well. It was so cheap, its threads did not stay on perfectly. So if you decide to buy a high end 27mm filter, that would be a good way to deal with the whole XS lens cap problem. 27mm filters are not very expensive to begin with, but not every brand makes them in that size. Just check websites like the ebays and amazons, especially look at imports from Japan and China.
Step up/down rings are useful, but going from 27mm to 49mm is too extreme imo. I know some people used a 27-32mm ring instead of a lens hood on the 40mm XS, but you have to be careful that its not too shiny/reflective (as some rings are)

[BruceBanner]

I lost the original lens cap of the 40mm XS and bought a 27mm UV filter for it. It was cheap and I used it as a lens cap. If need be, I took photos with it, as it did not degrade IQ a lot (very light sharpness loss, flare was more of a problem). But when I knew I would be photographing for a while, I took off the filter. Eventually I lost the 27mm filter as well. It was so cheap, its threads did not stay on perfectly. So if you decide to buy a high end 27mm filter, that would be a good way to deal with the whole XS lens cap problem. 27mm filters are not very expensive to begin with, but not every brand makes them in that size. Just check websites like the ebays and amazons, especially look at imports from Japan and China.
Step up/down rings are useful, but going from 27mm to 49mm is too extreme imo. I know some people used a 27-32mm ring instead of a lens hood on the 40mm XS, but you have to be careful that its not too shiny/reflective (as some rings are)

Could grab this, just seems a little over priced, if it was free shipping or even $5, but $16 from one state away is a bit pricey; Hoya 27mm HMC 1B | eBay

[beachgardener]

sky light filters have a slight colour cast to them, mainly used with film. Hoya are ok, but if you need filters why put an ok brand in front of superb glass?

[BruceBanner]

sky light filters have a slight colour cast to them, mainly used with film. Hoya are ok, but if you need filters why put an ok brand in front of superb glass?

Have a look at that link, Hoya HMC trumps the rest including B+W and the rest (for a third of the price)!

[beachgardener]

some of the hoyas might rate well, for me it is B+W or higher end Marumi, why do you want a skylight filter?