[MikeyBugs95]

So I modeled up an L-Bracket for the K-70 and I'd like your thoughts on it. This is just a computer render but I ordered a 3D printed prototype already. So, any thoughts?

[Arach101]

Great Mikey, it looks well designed.. you obviously have some experience with CAD!

It looks like you've put threads in both the holes, why is that? I'd recommend having a straight hole just big enough to allow a tripod screw through, and then fixing that screw to the bracket with an e-clip (I can provide a photo if you're not sure what I mean). I'd also be concerned with how that thread lines up with the one in the camera. If you must have a thread there, consider inserting a metal thread. If you google something along the lines of "3D print metal thread insert" there's a really great method of adding metal threads to 3D printed parts just using a soldering iron.

My second concern is, there doesn't appear to be much surface area for the bracket to grip the bottom of the camera. It might be a little bit floppy, I would have opted perhaps not to have those shallow cutouts. I'm speaking from experience here, I've used an anti-slip rubber tape (normally used on flooring) to line a 3D printed camera mount. It flopped from side to side a lot without the tape.. you could also try a spray on rubber coating.

How does the bracket facilitate mounting to a tripod? I've never used an L bracket so I'm a bit clueless here... is that an Arca swiss mount?

[Roadboat24]

Looks like a good design. Two items come to mind. As Arach101 said, the shallow cut outs I would leave out and include the anti-slip tape/rubber pads. I've used L-brackets without the rubber and they slid all over. As far as the threaded holes, the one for the bottom of the camera I would not thread. But the side one threaded comes in handy when using a black Rapid sling with the bracket attached to a camera. I use a 3 Legged Thing QR11-LC Universal L-Bracket on a Pentax K3 and a K50. They are attached all the time, helps protect the cameras as I bang around. As far as the bottom hole lining up, most L-Brackets have a slot, But there are Camera specific brackets with just the holes.

[dsingley100]

Looks good. Two thoughts: (1) make the base plate piece (I.e., the part that attaches to the bottom of the camera) long enough on the "L" side (i.e., the upright side) to allow access to the microphone jack - which is also the cable release jack on the K-70. (2) A largish cut out on the upright side would likely help with putting in or taking off the cable release jack. Some modest analysis would likely be needed to make sure there is enough material on the upright side to maintain structural integrity.

Am presently using a Sunpro universal on my K-70 and the only issue (and it's a very minor one) is the ability to get the cable release plug into the microphone jack with the L bracket in place.

[MikeyBugs95]

Great Mikey, it looks well designed.. you obviously have some experience with CAD!

It looks like you've put threads in both the holes, why is that? I'd recommend having a straight hole just big enough to allow a tripod screw through, and then fixing that screw to the bracket with an e-clip (I can provide a photo if you're not sure what I mean). I'd also be concerned with how that thread lines up with the one in the camera. If you must have a thread there, consider inserting a metal thread. If you google something along the lines of "3D print metal thread insert" there's a really great method of adding metal threads to 3D printed parts just using a soldering iron.

My second concern is, there doesn't appear to be much surface area for the bracket to grip the bottom of the camera. It might be a little bit floppy, I would have opted perhaps not to have those shallow cutouts. I'm speaking from experience here, I've used an anti-slip rubber tape (normally used on flooring) to line a 3D printed camera mount. It flopped from side to side a lot without the tape.. you could also try a spray on rubber coating.

How does the bracket facilitate mounting to a tripod? I've never used an L bracket so I'm a bit clueless here... is that an Arca swiss mount?

Looks like a good design. Two items come to mind. As Arach101 said, the shallow cut outs I would leave out and include the anti-slip tape/rubber pads. I've used L-brackets without the rubber and they slid all over. As far as the threaded holes, the one for the bottom of the camera I would not thread. But the side one threaded comes in handy when using a black Rapid sling with the bracket attached to a camera. I use a 3 Legged Thing QR11-LC Universal L-Bracket on a Pentax K3 and a K50. They are attached all the time, helps protect the cameras as I bang around. As far as the bottom hole lining up, most L-Brackets have a slot, But there are Camera specific brackets with just the holes.

Yes, it's supposed to be Arca-Swiss. I say supposed to be because I haven't yet tried it with an Arca-Swiss compatible mount I have to see if it works. The threads on the bottom mount are just to keep the mounting screw in place. I plan on using a screw similar to what 3 Legged Thing and many other companies have done where they have a partially threaded 1/4"-20 screw, thread it through the bracket completely so the screw turns freely, and then screw it into the tripod mount on the camera. That way it doesn't matter which orientation the threads are and no extra equipment is needed to keep the screw from falling out. The shallow cut outs are meant to facilitate rubber pads. Unfortunately I might not be able to use them because I have no way of accurately cutting to shape thin, adhesive backed rubber pads. I could always just try imprinting the shape in the pads then cutting them out from a sheet.

---------- Post added 03-21-18 at 10:51 AM ----------

Looks good. Two thoughts: (1) make the base plate piece (I.e., the part that attaches to the bottom of the camera) long enough on the "L" side (i.e., the upright side) to allow access to the microphone jack - which is also the cable release jack on the K-70. (2) A largish cut out on the upright side would likely help with putting in or taking off the cable release jack. Some modest analysis would likely be needed to make sure there is enough material on the upright side to maintain structural integrity.

Am presently using a Sunpro universal on my K-70 and the only issue (and it's a very minor one) is the ability to get the cable release plug into the microphone jack with the L bracket in place.

This render is looking at the bracket from the back (so it would be like we're looking at the flip screen of the K-70). The upright portion of the bracket is on the left side of the picture. It has a large cut out already for the microphone jack.

[Arach101]

Yes, it's supposed to be Arca-Swiss. I say supposed to be because I haven't yet tried it with an Arca-Swiss compatible mount I have to see if it works. The threads on the bottom mount are just to keep the mounting screw in place. I plan on using a screw similar to what 3 Legged Thing and many other companies have done where they have a partially threaded 1/4"-20 screw, thread it through the bracket completely so the screw turns freely, and then screw it into the tripod mount on the camera. That way it doesn't matter which orientation the threads are and no extra equipment is needed to keep the screw from falling out. The shallow cut outs are meant to facilitate rubber pads. Unfortunately I might not be able to use them because I have no way of accurately cutting to shape thin, adhesive backed rubber pads. I could always just try imprinting the shape in the pads then cutting them out from a sheet.

Ah, that makes more sense. Hopefully the print comes out alright, it took me a few goes to get an arca-swiss mount printed right. Sounds like you might be better off ditching the shallow cutouts in version 2.

[MikeyBugs95]

I don't really want to ditch the cut outs because those would house rubber pads.

[MikeyBugs95]

Well I finally got the prototype and it looks good. Had to move the tripod mount screw hole because it was placed incorrectly but it's been fixed. Now I just need to finish adding some anti-twist fixtures.

[Arach101]

Well I finally got the prototype and it looks good. Had to move the tripod mount screw hole because it was placed incorrectly but it's been fixed. Now I just need to finish adding some anti-twist fixtures.

Post an image when you're done! I'll be curious to know what anti-twist fixtures you settle on, and how they perform.

[Ron Boggs]

Instead of rubber pads, the hot-rod L-bracket companies roll the edge to grip the body securely stopping all chance of wiggle or twist. That's the point of a dedicated model-specific plate right?

The L-brackets I prefer also use the Arca sizing in both directions so you can slide the bracket in from 4 different angles instead of just the 2 on this design. I.E. instead of the long slide into an Arca bracket, it's an Arca square to fit both directions. This gives creative leeway and minimizes problems with oversized lenses, shades or accessories conflicting with the tripod or head.

You do obviously great computer work, but your design is a bit too similar to the cheapo ebay generic L-brackets-overly long L-arm, no anti-twist body gripping customization thus requiring rubber or cork, one-way fit etc... I recommend ignoring what you find on e-bay and looking instead at the most expensive L-brackets you can find to see if there are engineering tweaks you'd like on your custom model. Check out the Really Right Stuff brackets for other Pentax bodies then apply that type of thinking to yours!

[MikeyBugs95]

Instead of rubber pads, the hot-rod L-bracket companies roll the edge to grip the body securely stopping all chance of wiggle or twist. That's the point of a dedicated model-specific plate right?

The L-brackets I prefer also use the Arca sizing in both directions so you can slide the bracket in from 4 different angles instead of just the 2 on this design. I.E. instead of the long slide into an Arca bracket, it's an Arca square to fit both directions. This gives creative leeway and minimizes problems with oversized lenses, shades or accessories conflicting with the tripod or head.

You do obviously great computer work, but your design is a bit too similar to the cheapo ebay generic L-brackets-overly long L-arm, no anti-twist body gripping customization thus requiring rubber or cork, one-way fit etc... I recommend ignoring what you find on e-bay and looking instead at the most expensive L-brackets you can find to see if there are engineering tweaks you'd like on your custom model. Check out the Really Right Stuff brackets for other Pentax bodies then apply that type of thinking to yours!

I have already added some anti-twist features to the design but none very specific. I need to get the camera 3D scanned to add more.

[angerdan]

I'd suggest adding security screws on the bottom.
Also some camera specific ant twist holders which are scratch-proof to the camera.
And maybe some mounting option for a camera strap.

It would be interesting if you would create an K-1 D-BG6 l-bracket

[MikeyBugs95]

I'd suggest adding security screws on the bottom.
Also some camera specific ant twist holders which are scratch-proof to the camera.
And maybe some mounting option for a camera strap.

It would be interesting if you would create an K-1 D-BG6 l-bracket

Security screws can be done. Waiting on the scan before I do much else though. I have added some anti-twist features but, again, I needed to get the camera scanned to add more body-specific ones. About the strap, on the L-arm, there is a screw hole for mounting a screw-in strap lug. I can add something on the horizontal arm but I'll need to figure out what and how.

About the K-1 and grip bracket: it's much easier for me to design something like this when I have the physical reference in-hand. That way I'm able to measure off it. An accurate 3D model works just as well. If you're willing to send me a K-1 and grip, I can scan it and start modeling a bracket for it. Alternatively, if you can, you could scan the camera and grip and send me the files. That way I can model it to exactly fit but the camera and grip. But the first option is nice too.

[angerdan]

Screw-in for straps isn't a good idea. they can get loose. Best is an solution like Kirk use:
Camera Plate for Pentax K-1 | Kirk Photo

[Tigs]

I have already added some anti-twist features to the design but none very specific. I need to get the camera 3D scanned to add more.

Great initiative with this project.

1. I agree with the body matched anti-twist features. I used to think 3d scanning would be necessary for getting an accurate representation of shapes with fine dimensions but actually resulting surfaces are likey coarse and might not give you better results than using a simple caliper. Alternatively you may be able to pull vector drawings of the camera from the pdf user manual (open in acad or ai) and scale them to 1:1 for accurate dims.

2. Another tip someone mentioned already, especially if you are printing in plastic which I imagine you are, it might be a good idea to use threaded inserts rather than relying on plastic threads (might not last much)

3. I would also consider dropping the hole where the bracket angles as it looks like it could be a weak point.

4. One last comment, you might need to beef up that area around the central (threaded) hole.

Btw I'm a product designer