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06-26-2018, 02:06 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by swanlefitte Quote
Cool. Love that sky it almost looks like waves washing ashore.
Thanks. I wondered at the time whether I should have been adjusting the cpl as I was panning across, to try and avoid that 'bell' like shape forming that would occur during the panorama, still don't really know. I need to practice it for sure and do some shots with and without it and compare. The general advice I think is to remove it when doing panoramas, hence this post discussing whether a grad nd would be a good replacement (or money down the drain lol).

06-26-2018, 02:19 PM - 1 Like   #17
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Recently I was strongly thinking about buying one. Two factors made me not be buy.
-GND expects horizon to be flat.
-Setting up square filter involves more steps and that becomes an excuse for not using them at all. I will stick with software based solution.

I spent time reading and experimenting with ENFUSE. Exposure Fusion and Tone Mapping are two popular methods for doing s/w HDR. I like the output from Exposure Fusion. Both methods compramise saturation so I will use HDR only when there are no other options. I do not like to give up saturation. Yes one can boost the saturation is PP but I do not like that route.
06-27-2018, 01:38 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by pentaxfall Quote
Recently I was strongly thinking about buying one. Two factors made me not be buy.
-GND expects horizon to be flat.
-Setting up square filter involves more steps and that becomes an excuse for not using them at all. I will stick with software based solution.

I spent time reading and experimenting with ENFUSE. Exposure Fusion and Tone Mapping are two popular methods for doing s/w HDR. I like the output from Exposure Fusion. Both methods compramise saturation so I will use HDR only when there are no other options. I do not like to give up saturation. Yes one can boost the saturation is PP but I do not like that route.
Yeah I am concerned about the amount of times I'd have completely flat horizons in which to use one successfully without needing to resort to PP corrections, which then begs the question whether it's worth it if you're spending a good deal of time in post recovering a mountain peak or what not. And yeah I am not too gung ho about square filter set up times, however, I don't much enjoy my currently fiddling of ND filters on and off a lens, perhaps it would still be in my best interest to migrate across to a system that can accommodate all my glass.

I have not heard of the term 'Exposure Fusion' before, thanks for that, I shall read up about it. It's quite possible I've used the techniques in the past without knowing what they are properly called
08-09-2018, 07:10 AM   #19
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So I as well am looking at buying a system that I can use across a range of lens. I fully understand and embrace the bracketing method for landscapes but my need of ND filters is somewhat different. I want to darken up the view to lengthen exposure times. (think moving water and clouds)

Anyway, I have NO experience whatsoever in this realm. Does anyone have any suggestion on a good system? Especially if I want to use it with many lens of varying end sizes.

08-09-2018, 07:10 AM   #20
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So I as well am looking at buying a system that I can use across a range of lens. I fully understand and embrace the bracketing method for landscapes but my need of ND filters is somewhat different. I want to darken up the view to lengthen exposure times. (think moving water and clouds)

Anyway, I have NO experience whatsoever in this realm. Does anyone have any suggestion on a good system? Especially if I want to use it with many lens of varying end sizes.
08-09-2018, 03:49 PM - 1 Like   #21
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Graduated NDs really need square filters because you need to match it to your horizon or wherever your line of bright to dark is. If you are looking a full ND to slow your shutter speeds, you can easily do this with screw-on filters, just buy the largest you need and a bunch of step down rings. I can't really recommend brands other than to say that a lot of 10 stop ND filters aren't that neutral, and some will give your shot a significant color cast. If you don't mind fixing that with software, you can probably get away with cheaper filters, but in the end, you do get what you pay for, and I'd lean toward brands with better reputations.
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