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06-28-2018, 06:11 AM   #16
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It is important to note that only your Maximum F/stop matters unless you are using an M42 type lens or other lens without automatic aperture. Your f/2 lens at f/8 won't care. An 18-135 zoomed to 135 will look dark (since f/5.6 is the max aperture at that focal length) the same lens at 18mm probably will be fine (since max aperture is f/3.5 at 18mm).

The comments made earlier make it sound as though you were thinking this would impact any use of the lens beyond f/4.

06-28-2018, 02:03 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tas Quote
I'm talking about a change of system, there's no FF options in Pentax with an Electronic Viewfinder. I don't know what they're like with MF at wide apertures but it had to be mentioned as an option to consider. Lots of money to be throwing away though but if the optical viewfinder is not good enough you either change the viewfinder (again a camera system change or screen in your K-1), get better through lots and lots of practice or consider mirrorless with their new-fangled dark art electronic viewfinder.


Of course you could get boring and stop down or just go AF, but where's the challenge in that?

Tas
I see, thanks for the clarification.

I've been shooting almost exclusively MF for over 2 months now (and I pretty much shoot 5/7 days of the week), 95% of my work on my flickr page since then has been MF. I feel that with certain lenses it is easier to nail focus than with others, the Samyang probably being the hardest (quite a bit more difficult than the Tak 135/2.5 and FA50 at 1.4). It's gotten to the point that I feel as though I cannot improve with it as I can simply rotate the focus ring too much in either direction when I have achieved what I perceive to being in focus (ie the subject sharp), it's just that lack of optical feedback during the finer focusing (yet all so important) part that is a barrier I wish to try and remove. When it happens, and if I have time, I obtain focus from rotating the ring near to far, keep going till I lose focus, dial back the focus from far to near, and do a small amount of repeating that process till I feel as though I found the middle between both those aspects, and then shoot, usually that is where the focus is. But that's when shooting very wide, normally even going to f2.2-2.5 there is a lot more feedback to work with and I can get that focused shot without toggling too and fro from near to far and far to near.

I do get however that I am aiming for some very tricky shooting conditions indeed, it's just not supposed to be easy to nail f1.4-1.8 on an 85mm lens and get the subject perfectly in focus (even harder when you and or your subject is moving as well!). I just believe I can do better if I had something better to work with through the OVF (either an aide or different focusing screen) because when I do toggle to LV I can nail focus a lot easier, the focus feedback that I crave is there!
LV can also be very helpful for zooming in, if I find that the subject is just a tad too hard to see whether focus is on or not, one quick long press of the 'Ok' button and I can get x2 or x4 magnification, helps a ton.

Let's see how the Tenpa 1.22 stacks up, it may assist with seeing more like with the LV magnification kinda...


Oh... and what is the difference between Canon S type and A type?

---------- Post added 06-29-18 at 07:09 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
It is important to note that only your Maximum F/stop matters unless you are using an M42 type lens or other lens without automatic aperture. Your f/2 lens at f/8 won't care. An 18-135 zoomed to 135 will look dark (since f/5.6 is the max aperture at that focal length) the same lens at 18mm probably will be fine (since max aperture is f/3.5 at 18mm).

The comments made earlier make it sound as though you were thinking this would impact any use of the lens beyond f/4.
Yeah I did think that... so wait... the Type S screen will vary on what starts to become 'too dark' at different apertures then?

So how can we calculate a rough estimate of where perhaps 'unusable' ovf apertures are too exist with a Type S screen?

F1.4 lenses?

F2.8?

And F4?

Those are the lenses I own with maximum apertures...

I was thinking the Type S Screen would then make shooting with the 200/4 very difficult indeed because it already at its widest is open at what I thought to be near the cut off point for gaining usuable light (f4).
06-28-2018, 02:22 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by BruceBanner Quote
Yeah I did think that... so wait... the Type S screen will vary on what starts to become 'too dark' at different apertures then?

So how can we calculate a rough estimate of where perhaps 'unusable' ovf apertures are too exist with a Type S screen?

F1.4 lenses?

F2.8?

And F4?

Those are the lenses I own with maximum apertures...

I was thinking the Type S Screen would then make shooting with the 200/4 very difficult indeed because it already at its widest is open at what I thought to be near the cut off point for gaining usuable light (f4).
What I have seen is that f/4 is fine - f/5.6 not great. The cliff you fall off in terms of light appears to be just past f/4 but there are those who say it is f/2.8 - I haven't used this screen. I used a KatzEye with split screen for a bit but mostly just gave up on manual focus.
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