Originally posted by pepperberry farm lens cap?
The Limited lens caps are gorgeous, if you're anything like me you fumble and drop them, I don't want them chipped and damaged, they're too lovely for that ill treatment (and a good original lens cap free from defects always helps the resale of the lens I find).
But really it's my fault for not properly explaining.
I shoot professionally also, and when shooting primes you need a very fluid lens exchange as possible. When I get to the location I tend to take off all lens caps, front and rear and store them away for the duration of the shoot. It goes without saying that once the job is over the elements get their caps back on. I have a rocket blower also attached to my belt and if need be I can blast a couple of squeezes of air onto the elements if I see they are picking up fibres (but they never really do, not with these style of pouches, they're the ones with padded plasticy lining, not the fabric kind, hairs and dir don't really 'collect' anywhere on this kind of pouch lining).
It's simply quicker to ditch all caps and blast some air at them as you're making the switch than dealing with a cap. Oh... and I also typically have UV filters on at all times, just for that extra added protection to the front element.
Originally posted by UncleVanya You might just go: step up ring, filter, clip on hood.
Hood List for Nikkor Lenses
I recommend looking at the metal clip on Nikon hoods - the HS series clip on and off. The HS6 may be too short to be effective the hs4 looks good to me. The extra width will offset the longer hood possibly.
Thanks Uncle, I'll do that.
Something I forgot to say is... I plan on getting that 'Roundflash' softbox you pointed me in the direction of, however if you look at the videos demonstrating it, it typically has larger lenses going through, like 24-70's etc. I would be using my FA77 predominately and my HD DA 35. I think the success of this working with my smaller primes is to get a more 'hourglass' shape to my lens and lens hood flow, something for the 'ropes' of the roundflash to really grab onto. A clip on one also suggests the strain of the of the strings may ping a hood off lol. Hence I was looking for something with a stronger locking mechanism etc. I'll look into those Nikon hoods tho.
My issue is I think I'd like quite deep and larger hoods on the HD DA 35 and FA77, however I don't want to obviously contribute vignetting with them. The FA 77 clearly has more leeway in terms of length of hood, the 35 not so much. Oh how to know if a certain hood is gonna be an issue or not (because the built in hoods are utterly tiny, they just come out by about a centimetre!)
Originally posted by photoptimist Overall, hoods are important even with a CPL and ND filter to prevent flare. Sometimes hoods don't do much if the lighting is 100% from behind the lens (e.g., on-camera-flash in dark interiors). But if the sun, room lights, or flash set-up is in front of the lens, then a good petal hood or rectangular hood can prevent very bright stray light from entering the optics (filter + lens) and fogging or flaring.
Unless you use a lenscap, I would not put a hoodless lens with a filter in a bag. Dirt and grease in the bag will get on the filter surface and all your pictures will be taken looking through the mess.
Lens-filter-hood is probably the way to go but you might need to use the step-up ring that you mentioned and a larger hood to prevent vignetting especially on the 35.
Lens-hood-filter would require a lens cap on the filter. Also, any light gaps between the hood and filter could cause flare from light entering the hood-filter gap, bouncing off the interior surface of the filter and entering the lens.
Yeah nah I don't do that. Currently I am lenscapping, because the FA77 and DA 35 hoods are so inadequate for this purpose, hence the post, I want to hood up which gives the clearance needed. I've done this countless times before, with a Samyang 85 (large hood), the DFA 100, (long hood) etc, the elements stay completely safe, just requiring a blast of air from a rocket blower occasionally. I also shoot wide open a lot, which minimises any spec that the filter or element may have picked up along the way.
Yeah as mentioned above, when using a filter it would typically go on for the shot, then come off. I wouldn't store the lens>hood>filter in a pouch like that without a cap on the end as you say.
But I'm getting the general jist it's best to do Lens>Filter>Hood, so I'll try and work on that. First I'll do Lens>49-52mm step up ring and see if I can then find a hood that's better than a flakey plastic clip on thing to go on the 52mm, and at least make sure of the hood is removable then whatever the hood docked onto terminates at a 52mm for the filter. Whether the hood can redock once the filters on.. I dunno.. I'm just not sure I need hoods that much when using cpl and nd's in an already fairly dim waterfall location...
---------- Post added 10-17-18 at 10:43 AM ----------
Originally posted by UncleVanya You might just go: step up ring, filter, clip on hood.
Hood List for Nikkor Lenses
I recommend looking at the metal clip on Nikon hoods - the HS series clip on and off. The HS6 may be too short to be effective the hs4 looks good to me. The extra width will offset the longer hood possibly.
I don't understand at all how these clip on hoods actually work and dock onto the lens. The only video I found was this one;
It shows the fella squeezing the shiny protruding metal 'buttons' which kinda narrows the passage way, I don't get at all how this then allows the hood to clip into a step up ring or something... :/