Originally posted by Bryan D Thanks for your input Justin! What ball head are you using with the T-025x? My C10s seems a bit small for the K-1, right?
Look at Sirui ball heads and go by the weight rating. A Sirui head that is capable of holding 40lb will be much less than half the price of another brand with similar strength. My Sirui is the smoothest and strongest head I've ever used, with a wonderfully gradual, progressive lock (= you can increase frictional resistance without losing smooth movement).
Just went to check: Sirui K20X, rated at 55lb, $130 @ B&H.
And BTW: NO TRANSPORTABLE TRIPOD + HEAD IS TRULY "ROCK SOLID" when using a very long lens. The leverage of almost any telephoto of 300mm or longer means there can be fore-aft (=down the length of the lens) vibration. If you're using the equivalent of 500mm or longer, just touching the camera with your hand will cause a distressing amount of shake visible through the viewfinder. For astrophotography, three methods: 1) add a brace at the outer (lens hood) end of the lens. This can be a second tripod or a rod that goes from lens hood to a tripod leg. 2) Use the delayed release timer & a cable release to get the mirror up before the start of the exposure; 3) Use the ancient method = hold a dark object in front of the lens (traditionally a hat), open the shutter set on "bulb" with a cable release, wait a moment, then take away the hat, count seconds, put the hat back in front of the lens, end the bulb exposure. That was the technique for long exposures taught way back when I started photography (1960's - not quite when dinosaurs still roamed).