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10-13-2008, 11:50 AM   #16
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I'm a frequent hood user as well. I don't understand why Pentax didn't include one with the FA 50/1.4. It's an additional $30 or so for that hunk of plastic! I do like the Tamron caps with the inner pinch grips -- I have long fingers as well, so that helps.

10-13-2008, 12:25 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ole Quote
I always use the lens hood - except when using the built-in flash.

It increases contrast, reduces flare, and protects the front element of the lens.
Same here.
10-13-2008, 12:54 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Canada_Rockies Quote
I know what you mean, Dave. When I carry the lens in the sling bag, I have to reverse the hood. When I put it on the camera, and take it out, I take off the lens cap, put on the hood, and leave it all like that. No-one who got smacked with the end of the lens cap has sued me - yet.
i have a phobia of leaving the lens cap off while the camera is on standby

Dave
10-13-2008, 12:58 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by marlon Quote
the front element is at the base of the hood, it doesn't move out
Internally they move, but this doesn't matter, it's about the last piece of open glass, which is the front element. Ive never seen them move out of the hood before.

Guys, you are saying that taking the lenscaps off are hard? Why not just get "inner pinch" caps?
the 50-135 comes with inner pinch caps, but with hood on, my fingers bearly reaches it comfortably, so a little wrestling match starts.

Dave

10-13-2008, 01:02 PM   #20
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i saw at ritz camera , a rubberized hood that rolls back on itself, kind of a compact look.
by chance has any one used or was given a feed back with this on the 50-135

Dave
10-14-2008, 06:05 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by IsaacEastgate Quote
Are we saying that on some sigma zooms the hood is attached to the outer barrel, not to the front element?
Precisely. Which is why I was hoping I was simply missing something about the physics of light, otherwise the only explanation is that the Sigma team know less about physics than me, which is a verrrry sad indictment to be able to make about a lens manufacturer.

I have purchased a petal-hood for the wide-angle zooms, which screws to the filter thread. Problem is, adjusting the lens position causes the front barrel to rotate, and of course the hood turns with it! Pretty useless. The only solution to this problem would be to purchase a swivel filter mount so I could readjust the hood to compensate each time I adjust the lens.

Bottom line: Too much hassle, so I rarely use hoods on the wide-angle. I resort to cupping my hand over the lens if there's glare coming through.

Last edited by marcdsgn; 10-14-2008 at 08:21 PM.
10-15-2008, 04:35 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by marcdsgn Quote
At the risk of sounding ignorant, I've often wondered about the practicality of my Sigma hoods. I have three zooms with different ranges, each with a dedicated hood that mounts over the front rim.

But of course, adjusting the zoom means that the end of the lens moves out almost beyond the rim of the hood. To my mind, this defeats the purpose of the hoods ... or am I missing something about the position of the internal lens elements + flare angle + etc??
Well that's an odd design. Are these fairly old lenses? On any I have where the hood mounts to the (inside) barrel instead of the front filter ring, that part of the barrel is where the front element is mounted so everything moves in and out as a unit not telescoping inside the hood.

Poor design but the types that the hood mounts this way allow the use of a polarizer with the hood in place if you can get your fingers in there. In that regard the Pentax style with the small door on the bottom of the hood is vastly superior.

10-15-2008, 06:03 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by marcdsgn Quote
At the risk of sounding ignorant, I've often wondered about the practicality of my Sigma hoods. I have three zooms with different ranges, each with a dedicated hood that mounts over the front rim.

But of course, adjusting the zoom means that the end of the lens moves out almost beyond the rim of the hood. To my mind, this defeats the purpose of the hoods ... or am I missing something about the position of the internal lens elements + flare angle + etc??
on any zoom the hood is designed for the shortest focal length, it has to be that way or the lens would vignette. In fact, in the thread on performance of DA lenses on full frame, you can actually see the hood profile in one of the shots.

Having stated the above, I have a different question about the effectiveness of many of my lens hoods, in fact every single one except my sigma 10-20. All my other zooms are full frame lenses, and the hoods must be designed to be compatible with the wider field of view on a film body (I say film because pentax does not make a full frame DSLR) As a result, the performance of the hood is somewhat compromised when shooting with the restricted field of view of an ASP-C sensor. with an optimized hood, you could shoot closer on axis to a bright source without flair. I wonder why manufacturer's don't offer 2 hoods or an optional hood for ASP-C sensors.

As for using the hoods, I use them ewxcept when using the built in flash. Many lens hoods restrict the coverage of the flash.
10-15-2008, 07:02 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by Peter Zack Quote
Are these fairly old lenses?
Two purchased new between 2003-2004.

A third (18-50mm) purchase second-hand last year, but only a couple of years old.

Of the first two, one is an 80-300 zoom which DOES have a mount on the front barrel - so no problem with that one.

NB: Tell ya' what, if I get a chance, I'll upload a snapshot of the three with hoods on, so you can see what I'm talking about.
10-16-2008, 09:40 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by marcdsgn Quote
... The only solution to this problem would be to purchase a swivel filter mount so I could readjust the hood to compensate each time I adjust the lens.
Pick up an old, cheapo polarizer in the same filter size and remove the glass, mounting it between the lens and hood. We did this using home-made cardboard hoods in various shapes when doing a weird project in school where we wanted to induce vignetting in different shapes... Used a filter clamp and a rubber band to hold them on the ring...
10-16-2008, 10:21 AM   #26
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if you want custom hoods try here

Custom lens hoods

also somewhere there is a spread sheet that generates hood designs, but I am not sure where at the moment
10-16-2008, 11:02 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by Classvino Quote
Pick up an old, cheapo polarizer in the same filter size and remove the glass, mounting it between the lens and hood. We did this using home-made cardboard hoods in various shapes when doing a weird project in school where we wanted to induce vignetting in different shapes... Used a filter clamp and a rubber band to hold them on the ring...
depending on the size you can just buy an empty one

Empty Camera Filter Rings - Blank Filter Rings - Empty Filter Rings
10-16-2008, 11:51 AM   #28
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As Lowell states above, the shortest focal length is the real test of many hoods, because of vignetting. I have found this is one problem with the Sigma 17-70. Many times I have had to remove the hood when 17mm or close to, in order to dodge this problem.
Otherwise I use hoods on all my lenses about 90% of the time.,
As for lens caps, yes a real hassle,(I have large hands!)
10-16-2008, 12:07 PM   #29
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Takumar lens hoods for the 135/200 mm lenses @49mm filter thread from days gone past, often found for 5 bucks each or less, work very well.

no vignetting, even on a 43mm lens.

and its so long you can afford to not bother with a lenscap.
10-16-2008, 08:15 PM   #30
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Brilliant link Lowell! Together with deejjjaaaa's link, this will give me something to work towards this weekend!
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