Digital Spotmeter Question

Lord Lucan · 07-31-2020, 05:28 AM

I have not used my Spotmeter for a while, but on trying it I notice that the two LEDs that indicate 1/3 stop increments look blurry through the viewfinder, although the main 2-digit number is in focus. Is this normal? I don't remember it being like that before. So I am wondering if the two LEDs have got dislodged.

That leads to the question of how I might get into this thing to repair it. The body of it looks glued together; has anyone tried it?

**hyyz** · 07-31-2020, 07:01 AM - **1 Like**

Maybe battery is weak? I remember seeing the two LED dots got weak when it was time to replace battery.

**pentaxus** · 07-31-2020, 07:12 AM - **1 Like**

My recollection is that you remove the serial number to get to the screw just like on the Spotmeter V. If you clean the the eyepiece and the back side of the prism and still see it, the problem is prism de-silvering. I have a K2 with a couple of blurry shutter speed numbers that are caused by that. Getting the prism re-silvered is not cost effective.

Not a Number · 07-31-2020, 10:52 PM - **1 Like**

According to posts on other boards there is a screw under the serial number plate (glued on) and a threaded ring around the viewfinder that need to be removed in order to open the meter.

Lord Lucan · 08-03-2020, 09:17 AM - **1 Like**

I got inside the Spotmeter. The two LEDs for 1/3 EV increments are behind a small piece of transparent red plastic. This had become cloudy and was blurring them. IDK why the red plastic was there as the LEDs are red anyway; it was only glued in place and I removed it. As well as being more focussed now, the LEDs look slightly brighter, in fact a bit more than the numerals, so I guess its purpose was to match the brightnesses. The meter is as good as new now

There was indeed a screw under the serial number sticker (1st pic). This, and the big chrome ring nut at the viewfinder position (2nd pic), and a small plastic tongue at the top, are what hold the case back to the front. I had to make a pin spanner to undo the chrome ring - a bit of metalwork.

Once the case was apart I had to remove the case front from the main internal "block" of pentaprisms and stuff. First the long circuit board down the handle and the operating microswitch were removed (within the limits of the wiring). Then I took out the object lens to reveal four screws behind it to remove the lens barrel. This revealed a large brass ring nut (3rd pic) that I undid with waterpump pliers. After that the internal "block" could be removed from the case front. The small circuit board carrying the LEDs and numerical display was attached to the front of the "block".

aj_chicago · 04-01-2021, 06:31 PM

Originally posted by Lord Lucan

I got inside the Spotmeter. The two LEDs for 1/3 EV increments are behind a small piece of transparent red plastic. This had become cloudy and was blurring them. IDK why the red plastic was there as the LEDs are red anyway; it was only glued in place and I removed it. As well as being more focussed now, the LEDs look slightly brighter, in fact a bit more than the numerals, so I guess its purpose was to match the brightnesses. The meter is as good as new now

There was indeed a screw under the serial number sticker (1st pic). This, and the big chrome ring nut at the viewfinder position (2nd pic), and a small plastic tongue at the top, are what hold the case back to the front. I had to make a pin spanner to undo the chrome ring - a bit of metalwork.

Once the case was apart I had to remove the case front from the main internal "block" of pentaprisms and stuff. First the long circuit board down the handle and the operating microswitch were removed (within the limits of the wiring). Then I took out the object lens to reveal four screws behind it to remove the lens barrel. This revealed a large brass ring nut (3rd pic) that I undid with waterpump pliers. After that the internal "block" could be removed from the case front. The small circuit board carrying the LEDs and numerical display was attached to the front of the "block".

Thanks for the photos. I was trying to learn how to get into mine and read several posts on several forums about a screw behind a "serial number cover." For the life of me, I couldn't find one! Seems someone removed that cover along the way to me. Duh.

07-31-2020, 05:28 AM	#1
Lord Lucan Pentaxian Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: South Wales Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,961	Digital Spotmeter Question I have not used my Spotmeter for a while, but on trying it I notice that the two LEDs that indicate 1/3 stop increments look blurry through the viewfinder, although the main 2-digit number is in focus. Is this normal? I don't remember it being like that before. So I am wondering if the two LEDs have got dislodged. That leads to the question of how I might get into this thing to repair it. The body of it looks glued together; has anyone tried it?

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07-31-2020, 07:01 AM - 1 Like	#2
hyyz Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Michigan Posts: 478	Maybe battery is weak? I remember seeing the two LED dots got weak when it was time to replace battery.

07-31-2020, 07:12 AM - 1 Like	#3
pentaxus Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Central Coast, CA Posts: 1,313	My recollection is that you remove the serial number to get to the screw just like on the Spotmeter V. If you clean the the eyepiece and the back side of the prism and still see it, the problem is prism de-silvering. I have a K2 with a couple of blurry shutter speed numbers that are caused by that. Getting the prism re-silvered is not cost effective.

07-31-2020, 10:52 PM - 1 Like	#4
Not a Number Moderator Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Venice, CA Posts: 10,526	According to posts on other boards there is a screw under the serial number plate (glued on) and a threaded ring around the viewfinder that need to be removed in order to open the meter.

08-03-2020, 09:17 AM - 1 Like	#5
Lord Lucan Pentaxian Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: South Wales Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,961 Original Poster	I got inside the Spotmeter. The two LEDs for 1/3 EV increments are behind a small piece of transparent red plastic. This had become cloudy and was blurring them. IDK why the red plastic was there as the LEDs are red anyway; it was only glued in place and I removed it. As well as being more focussed now, the LEDs look slightly brighter, in fact a bit more than the numerals, so I guess its purpose was to match the brightnesses. The meter is as good as new now There was indeed a screw under the serial number sticker (1st pic). This, and the big chrome ring nut at the viewfinder position (2nd pic), and a small plastic tongue at the top, are what hold the case back to the front. I had to make a pin spanner to undo the chrome ring - a bit of metalwork. Once the case was apart I had to remove the case front from the main internal "block" of pentaprisms and stuff. First the long circuit board down the handle and the operating microswitch were removed (within the limits of the wiring). Then I took out the object lens to reveal four screws behind it to remove the lens barrel. This revealed a large brass ring nut (3rd pic) that I undid with waterpump pliers. After that the internal "block" could be removed from the case front. The small circuit board carrying the LEDs and numerical display was attached to the front of the "block".

04-01-2021, 06:31 PM	#6
aj_chicago New Member Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: California Posts: 19	Originally posted by Lord Lucan I got inside the Spotmeter. The two LEDs for 1/3 EV increments are behind a small piece of transparent red plastic. This had become cloudy and was blurring them. IDK why the red plastic was there as the LEDs are red anyway; it was only glued in place and I removed it. As well as being more focussed now, the LEDs look slightly brighter, in fact a bit more than the numerals, so I guess its purpose was to match the brightnesses. The meter is as good as new now There was indeed a screw under the serial number sticker (1st pic). This, and the big chrome ring nut at the viewfinder position (2nd pic), and a small plastic tongue at the top, are what hold the case back to the front. I had to make a pin spanner to undo the chrome ring - a bit of metalwork. Once the case was apart I had to remove the case front from the main internal "block" of pentaprisms and stuff. First the long circuit board down the handle and the operating microswitch were removed (within the limits of the wiring). Then I took out the object lens to reveal four screws behind it to remove the lens barrel. This revealed a large brass ring nut (3rd pic) that I undid with waterpump pliers. After that the internal "block" could be removed from the case front. The small circuit board carrying the LEDs and numerical display was attached to the front of the "block". Thanks for the photos. I was trying to learn how to get into mine and read several posts on several forums about a screw behind a "serial number cover." For the life of me, I couldn't find one! Seems someone removed that cover along the way to me. Duh.

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