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07-07-2022, 04:55 PM   #1
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Recommend me a decent UV filter?

Before we get to the heart of my question, let's get any thoughts of debating the idea of a UV filter out of the way. Normally I don't use one, but I potentially have a very specific and extreme use case coming up, and a lens hood will not do a thing to protect it. My plan is to set my camera up between the lanes at a drag strip to catch photos as they launch jet cars. I'll refer you to the photo below to get an idea of what's going to happen. Now imagine a car on either side of the camera in close proximity, both with full afterburners going, blowing anything on the track back behind them. They do sweep the track, but there's always going to be little bits of debris (tire rubber, pebbles, small dogs...) getting blown back at the launch, and my camera would be in the line of fire. The blast would only be for a few seconds at a time, but those few seconds are intense.



So yes, I'm sure I want a UV filter or other solution to protect the lens.

That said, I see quite a wide swing on pricing. Are there going to be major differences in quality and maintaining of image quality? Best Buy has their in house brand multi-coated filter for $35, or a Hoya NXT for $65. I know some other brands get way up there in price. I'm hoping to find something that retains decent image quality that isn't going to break the bank.

*The comment about small dogs was only a joke.

07-07-2022, 05:06 PM - 3 Likes   #2
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Cool (Hot) idea!

I don't know which UV filter to try but I might recommend you wrap your camera and lens in a layer or two of aluminum foil to reflect the radiant heat from the flames and any encounters with hot gases. A solid weighed tripod might also be a good idea.

Good luck! It looks like a blast!
07-07-2022, 05:30 PM   #3
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will a UV filter be enough to protect the lens or camera?
07-07-2022, 06:45 PM - 1 Like   #4
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You might want to consider a box similar to an underwater housing and then do as photoptimist suggested. Any hot gases getting to your camera or lens can cause damage in a very short time. An enclosure would provide both lens and camera protection. You might protect the front lens element with a UV filter but that would be just one of my worries in the application you described. The sound from some of these cars can even be damaging to sensitive equipment at close range. Intense is an under statement!

07-07-2022, 06:59 PM   #5
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As far as screw on UV filters go, I have always just used Hoya ones.
07-07-2022, 07:01 PM - 1 Like   #6
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is your shot of the on coming cars (head on?), or looking at the tail pipes after they have passed?
Either way, the camera and lens would be in the line of fire. (in the jet wash at some point)
If it's looking up the tail pipes, I'm imagining that you would need to clean off or change the filter after every run. Those jets are spewing a lot of debris, ash, soot, water vapor, unburned fuel, etc.
As others have suggested, some kind of enclosure for the whole rig may be called for, an insulated metal box perhaps, with a heavy glass window for the lens to look through. And some way to anchor it to the ground. The bigger your "package" the more it will want to become airborne in the blast. Are there physical anchors into the pavement you can fasten to?
How are you going to trigger it? (if in a box, an IR or RC trigger may not work?)

A great shot if you can pull it off, without losing your rig or someone getting hurt.

My thoughts are coming from being a photographer at an Air Force base, 30-years ago, and operating around military jets. I've been hosed by the exhaust of taxiing jets from the edges of a runway, as they turn. I have some sense of the environment. If I understand this proposed set up correctly, the camera will be much closer and subject to much higher throttle settings than I've experienced, at least briefly.

Last edited by K-Three; 07-08-2022 at 06:51 AM. Reason: clarifying and justifying
07-07-2022, 07:10 PM   #7
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I'm sure when you say "in the line of fire" you mean for any possible debris getting blown around, not that your camera will literally be in the path of the flame shooting out of the back of that car!


My impressions (I haven't done side by side testing or anything):
I imagine that the Hoya would definitely be a good enough option for you, or some other medium to high level brand like Tiffen. Multicoated would be best. I would definitely avoid the really cheapest of the cheap ones, but for a UV or protective filter you probably shouldn't be super worried. When they do affect IQ, it's usually not by any gigantic amount (probably mostly flare is the concern). Some people roll with a Sunpak (cheap brand) one on their lens all the time.

You could also consider looking for a used one on ebay if you really want to get a high end one and not have to have any doubts about quality: I bought a (barely) used, high end B+W CPL from there for $60 that should have been $120+. No issues with it at all, and there's never been a doubt in my mind that I'm degrading my images in any unacceptable way.

07-07-2022, 07:39 PM   #8
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I would suggest a large plate of shatter resistant optical grade glass bigger than the camera mounted in front and a stand to hold it in place along with one of the rubber hoods designed to press against glass to avoid reflections… but that’s just me.
07-07-2022, 08:59 PM - 2 Likes   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by K-Three Quote
is your shot of the on coming cars (head on?), or looking at the tail pipes after they have passed?

The tripod would be in between the two cars, aimed down the track shooting up the tailpipe. During staging, heat would be minimal as the exhaust would be behind the camera and shooting back. I probably get more heat from shots like in my original post when doing the pre-stage flame shows. Only when the tree goes green and they take off would the camera get any direct thrust/heat as they pass.

QuoteQuote:
Either way, the camera and lens would be in the line of fire.
If it's looking up the tail pipes, I'm imagining that you would need to clean off or change the filter after every run. Those jets are spewing a lot of debris, ash, soot, water vapor, unburned fuel, etc.

True, and I would have time to clean. Unlike regular drag races that launch in quick succession, jets have a fair bit of time between runs due to setup time.

QuoteQuote:
As others have suggested, some kind of enclosure for the whole rig may be called for, an insulated metal box perhaps, with a heavy glass window for the lens to look through. And some way to anchor it to the ground. The bigger your "package" the more it will want to become airborne in the blast. Are there physical anchors into the pavement you can fasten to?
There's a shielded divider between the lanes where they stage. You can see it somewhat in the photo, which has the Randy O'keefe sign on it. So the tripod, which I can put low with a very wide stance, would be shielded and the camera barely above the divider wall. The anchors will be another questionable aspect that I won't know about until I get there. I think there will be some posts for the divider I can tie down to and prevent a situation like this.

(alternate view linked in the video description)

QuoteQuote:
How are you going to trigger it?
A great shot if you can pull it off without losing your rig or someone getting hurt.
I have a wireless remote to trigger it. Ideally I'd just get up there and hand hold it, which would solve all my problems and allow other shots as well, but the track likely wouldn't allow it. I have been in talks with one of the teams to have a photo session they can use for their advertising, so I may try name dropping them to get special permission for this. Doubtful it'll work, but we shall see.

The other advise is appreciated, and much of it things I've already been mulling over. I do think the protective box idea is likely the best option, if not for issues with portability and expense to build it. Having been up close and personal with these beasts, I think it should be ok on an anchored tripod, and perhaps a protective sleeve of some sort for the body.

Why must my hobbies be so difficult??? Lol
07-08-2022, 04:25 AM   #10
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The best UV filters are Hoya Super HMC. The coatings are nearly as good as Pentax SMC. When you look at one it's almost like there's no glass in the filter ring there's so little reflection.
07-08-2022, 06:38 AM - 3 Likes   #11
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That's what TELEPHOTOS are for. Just stand farther away with a long lens. A UV filter would not protect you from a group of lions, would it ?

Regards
07-08-2022, 06:43 AM   #12
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OP. Have you thought about a telephoto lens so the whole rig can stand off from the cars with less chance of heat/debris/blast damage?
07-08-2022, 06:53 AM   #13
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There's several problems with standing further back. There would be a lot of clutter (starting line equipment, staff, pedestrian bridge, etc) that would be in the shot that I don't want. I also don't have enough space behind them to remain safe. Even if I did, I don't have a high enough quality lens for that, and would also get a lot of heat distortion at the needed distance. Here's what I'd be working with, and also the team I'm in talks with. VOLUME WARNING!

07-08-2022, 06:57 AM   #14
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Could you stand high up on some kind of overpass ?
07-08-2022, 07:19 AM   #15
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I'm usually dead against UV or "protection" filters but this is a textbook example where they might actually save the day! As you stated, there's going to be a crapload of stuff flying, dust, hot gases, turbulent air - honestly in this case you're out to get the shot of a lifetime, no matter what. Detail sharpness seems to be the least of your worries. I'd go for the cheapest and buy a couple of them at least so you can clean one between runs while the other one is on the lens shooting. Maybe even more than two to hedge against actual breakage.

I'd be thrilled to see the results, good luck!
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