[Mooncatt]

Detail sharpness seems to be the least of your worries. I'd go for the cheapest and buy a couple of them at least so you can clean one between runs while the other one is on the lens shooting. Maybe even more than two to hedge against actual breakage.

Good point, and I may do just that and let post processing work its magic after the fact.

[TwoUptons]

I managed to find some Hoya MC filters on sale a few years ago for very good prices, and I've had good luck with those.

I think I'd also agree with NewMikey and suggest getting a couple.
Even if there's no time to clean them between runs, being able to swap them would be handy in case you did get a bunch of nasty on one.

-Eric

[Alex645]

a lens hood will not do a thing to protect it. but there's always going to be little bits of debris getting blown back at the launch, and my camera would be in the line of fire.
So yes, I'm sure I want a UV filter or other solution to protect the lens.
Are there going to be major differences in quality and maintaining of image quality? I'm hoping to find something that retains decent image quality that isn't going to break the bank.

a) A lens hood will still offer some protection if you're shooting only one car and there is flying micro debris coming from your side.

b) This situation is not unlike shooting in a dust storm or a windy beach. The filter will get pitted, scratched, and damaged, and if you don't want to break the bank, your best bet is getting the least expensive multicoated clear filter and replacing them often vs. a higher quality filter that gets pitted but is not replaced because of cost.

c) Ideally you would have a case for the camera. Back in the day, I used Jacobson sound blimps, but Pentax cases were rare, so you may want to find a customized solution to protect the entire camera.

[MaineNative]

I use the B+W 007 Clear Filters on my lenses. They have a thin version but I get the regular size. Brass rink makes me fell like I am getting my money’s worth…

[Lord Lucan]

The best UV filters are Hoya Super HMC. .... When you look at one it's almost like there's no glass in the filter ring there's so little reflection.

In this use case, the optical quality of the filter is going to be the least of his worries.

[angerdan]

I'd think about using an Actioncam instead of a DSLR.
For Actioncams there are protected cases available.
amazon.com : Gurmoir Metal Case for Gopro Hero 10/Hero 9 Black, Aluminum Alloy Back Door Housing Frame.Side Open Wire Connectable Protective Video Cage with 52mm UV Filter for Gopro10/9 : Electronics?tag=pentaxforums-20&

[ChrisPlatt]

I'd worry more about human exposure.
I imagine it will be hard to operate all those tiny buttons wearing oven mitts.

Chris

[TwoUptons]

I want to see the first filter that gets an engine piece embedded in it

"What's that thing on the front of your lens?"
"That's the chip detector..."

-Eric

[rogerstg]

I wonder if you should be using a polarizer instead. In a well let scene, they seem to help flame look like flame. OTOH, I've never shot flames being blown toward the camera.

[Mooncatt]

I wonder if you should be using a polarizer instead. In a well let scene, they seem to help flame look like flame. OTOH, I've never shot flames being blown toward the camera.

I've never heard of that. Do you have any examples of a polarizer used on flames? I tried searching for the topic, but found nothing. The closest I got was its effects on smoke for things like a forest fire.

[Ted]

Before we get to the heart of my question, let's get any thoughts of debating the idea of a UV filter out of the way. Normally I don't use one, but I potentially have a very specific and extreme use case coming up, and a lens hood will not do a thing to protect it. My plan is to set my camera up between the lanes at a drag strip to catch photos as they launch jet cars. I'll refer you to the photo below to get an idea of what's going to happen. Now imagine a car on either side of the camera in close proximity, both with full afterburners going, blowing anything on the track back behind them. They do sweep the track, but there's always going to be little bits of debris (tire rubber, pebbles, small dogs...) getting blown back at the launch, and my camera would be in the line of fire. The blast would only be for a few seconds at a time, but those few seconds are intense.



So yes, I'm sure I want a UV filter or other solution to protect the lens.

That said, I see quite a wide swing on pricing. Are there going to be major differences in quality and maintaining of image quality? Best Buy has their in house brand multi-coated filter for $35, or a Hoya NXT for $65. I know some other brands get way up there in price. I'm hoping to find something that retains decent image quality that isn't going to break the bank.

*The comment about small dogs was only a joke.

I've been using a hoya nxt for years. Medium priced and works great. You have a greater chance of damage due to where you are shooting so don't get the best or the worst.

[ChrisPlatt]

In my experience filter brands made in Germany are always top quality.
Next best are those made in Japan.

Multicoated is nice but they're harder to clean.

Given all of this shop by price on filterfind.net or eBay.
There are bargains out there.

Chris

[Weevil]

Here I am not cmmenting about other protections, but just recommending one of the Marumi Lens Potect (not UV) filter... They have a good price vs quality ratio IMO (got many filters from Marumi so far and they are very good!)
https://www.marumi-global.com/collections/screw-in

I mainly (and only) use them when I got to sandy / dusty areas and when there is lots of wind...
good luck !

[tibbitts]

My limited experience has been that the newer "nano-coated" (which go by various proprietary names) filters are substantially easier to clean than previous multi-coated filters. Next easiest are uncoated filters.

[stanwi3]

I agree with Spock. Hoya is my preference. But, for an inexpensive UV, I would suggest Tiffen. The UV is one of the easier filters to manufacture and I doubt there is very much difference between the most expensive and the cheapest (other than durability issues).