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10-06-2009, 01:06 PM   #1
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Whats the BEST $400 Tripod & Head?

I been reading reviews for 2 days now and I find something wrong with almost everything I read about. I'm afraid My Sigma 100-300 lens will slip and smack the tripod leg like a heavy old lens I had did.... on my cheap tripod.
I know nothing about these heads with them small little knobs, I can't see how people can turn them with there fingers to make them tight enough so they don't slip.
I really don't care if the tripod is Alum. or Carbon, I won't be carrying it long distances, and if I do I'll let the wife carry it...lol
I could go a little more than 400 if it's going to be worth it.

Thanks Everyone.... because this will be the last piece of camera gear I purchase.

10-06-2009, 01:13 PM   #2
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If you don't mind the weight, you can get a fairly sturdy aluminum tripod from manfrotto or induro for a reasonable sum. Pair that with a manfrotto 488 head with independent pan and you're laughing.
10-06-2009, 01:40 PM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by Fl_Gulfer Quote
I know nothing about these heads with them small little knobs, I can't see how people can turn them with there fingers to make them tight enough so they don't slip.
Using the knobs is a lot about how good a ball head can be. I didn't quite understand this when I finally got a ball head that had tension control. I had been using a one knob ball head where like you say, tightening the locking knob down hard was the only way, so I had to learn to use the new ball head and practice to use it effectively.

I don't know if the following is universal or not, but this is how it works with the Feisol CB-50. The tensioner is on one side of the ball head and the main locking knob is on the other. Inside the ball head, the ball sits in a clamp. To adjust this clamp, you tighten the unit with the locking knob and then on the other side you lightly twist the tensioner knob until it makes contact. You then back off the tensioner knob a little. You now loosen the locking knob and check the tension of the ball head. When you tighten the locking knob the first time you are not cranking down on it at all. As you adjust both the tensioner and locking knobs, the ball head actually tightens without much force on the locking knob and none on the tensioner.

You want it to move when you move it and stay when it you don't move it. If it is too tight, lock the ball head again and back off the tensioner a tiny amount. Then loosen the locking knob and try the set up again. In loosening the locking knob you aren't opening it all the way up, you want it to be lightly tight, as it too is providing tension.

The tensioner and the locking knob are the right and left sides of the clamp. You need both to be adjusted to provide the proper force needed to keep the lens in place but movable. If one or the other is looser than the other, when you move to the looser side of the head, the camera will move when it shouldn't. Once you have the tension right for the camera and lens combination, you can move the camera into any position and leave it there. Getting this balanced tension set up is the slow part.

Thank you
Russell

Last edited by Russell-Evans; 10-06-2009 at 03:05 PM.
10-06-2009, 02:32 PM   #4
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I think I understand but I'm pretty stupid nowdays. That 488 head isn't even close to what I'm wanting. If I have to I'll sell my Takumar Lenses too to get more money.

10-06-2009, 02:39 PM   #5
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Are you wanting the head to handle more weight? Or use a different adjustment method?
10-06-2009, 02:44 PM   #6
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This is the modern version of the #268 I use.
Manfrotto 468MGRC4 - HYDROSTATIC BALL HEAD REL.RC4

It will hold a 600 f/6 with no worries.
10-06-2009, 02:54 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by Fl_Gulfer Quote
I think I understand but I'm pretty stupid nowdays.
I don't think of myself as stupid, but it took me a little while to figure out what I posted. I actually really figured it out only after I took the entire ball head apart. It was only in seeing the way the knobs interacted that I finally understood the principle.

I would like to see the insides of the ball heads that have the tensioner as a thumb screw in the locking knob, like the Markins, to see how they work.

Thank you
Russell

10-06-2009, 05:39 PM   #8
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I have a photo clam head (a knock off of the markins, originally a knock off!). The tensioner is great, and very easy to control. Basically with the higher end heads, they provide enough tension that the camera/lens can be held, but still moved with your hand without having to loosen the ballhead. The tension knob is numbered - so you need more or less tension based on the camera/lens combination weight. Once you have determined the minimum tension, you turn the thumb screw, which in a nutshell locks the larger knob from loosening past that point. It works great, and is well worth the money. From what I had read about photo clam prior to purchase, and my experience with it so far, you should put it on your list of options as well.
10-06-2009, 07:53 PM   #9
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I just sent a email to see about getting the Feisol

1 -CT-3441S Traveler Class Tripod
1- PC-33NS Photo Clam Head Both in Gold if I can get them. at

Really Big Cameras
10-06-2009, 08:32 PM   #10
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I have the 33ns, bought from Kerry at really big cameras - he was great to deal with and it is a very well machined, smooth ballhead! I purchased a set of gitzo basalt legs on ebay - the feisol legs were seriously tempting as well, especially with the reverse folding leg design, very compact for travel. I think that you would be very happy with a combination from both of those companies. good luck!
10-06-2009, 10:13 PM   #11
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I ran into much the same thing and found the following to be a quality unit and the price was fair for what you got.
Hope this helps....

PHOTO / VIDEO

PHOTO / VIDEO
10-06-2009, 11:24 PM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by Fl_Gulfer Quote
I just sent a email to see about getting the Feisol

1 -CT-3441S Traveler Class Tripod
1- PC-33NS Photo Clam Head Both in Gold if I can get them. at

Really Big Cameras
I bought that ballhead from Kerry to replace my Markins Q3T on my Gitzo 1541T.
It works much better with the traveler tripod as the knobs are positioned better.
Anyway, it's a great product. After that experience I trusted Kerry
and I'm also getting a Feisol tripod from him. I was looking for something taller
and he advised me a new design - CT-3441T - it's like CT-3441S but with
the legs from 3442.
I should get it any day now, will post a little review and try to compare it
to the Gitzos I have...
10-07-2009, 12:31 AM   #13
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I've been very happy with my Benro A269m8.
I paid $180 for it, but if you pay $250 you get a stronger ballhead, supporting 26.5lbs(12kg).
Benro | A-269M8 Travel Angel Aluminum Tripod with B-1 | 458-269
It also comes in carbon fiber at a higher price, although I'm a bit more skeptical about the quality of the carbon fiber tripods from Benro.
10-07-2009, 03:38 AM   #14
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Gulfer, I just bought the 3441-S (with the CB40-D head) and it seems like a very nice unit. Kerry is also wonderful to work with. Being a 4-section tripod instead of 3, it may not be as rock-steady as a comparable 3-section tripod, but if you would leave a longer pod at home (the reason I switched), then by all means go for it. That tripod is packed in a suitcase right now ready to fly with me today. My longer (but seemingly stronger) Gitzo (Basalt 1932 with a B/M 488RC-2 head) might have stayed home. I plan to sell my Gitzo and 488RC-2 head soon since I can't afford to have both.

Comparision image:

10-07-2009, 05:58 AM   #15
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So the 3 section is alot sturdier than the 4? Why is that. I'm 6 feet tall and don't want to bend over alot to look thru the eyepiece.
My camera w/grip and lens and flash weigh 6.6 pounds, I'm sure I won't use the flash much with the 100-300 lens but even so should I go much higher in carrying weight than 7 pounds?
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