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03-06-2010, 09:13 AM   #1
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Cokin P series for Tamron 10-24?

I'd like to invest in a filter system for my various lenses, I am concerned about my Tamron 10-24. I have searched lots of old threads, and I find some pointing out even the Cokin Wide-angle p series holder shows vignetting on the 10-20 sigma at 10mm, while others claims they see no vig.

There doesn't seem to be much about the Tamron 10-24 (is it that new?), but I assume 10mm is 10mm, if one lens shows vig, then another might likely as well?

Can anyone share some photos at 10mm that show what kind of vig. I can expect? I mean; is it really minor, like something I can crop out without losing too much? Is it quite intrusive; what's the point of shooting at 10mm to have part of the frame covered up?

03-06-2010, 02:46 PM   #2
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Hey--it's 10mm!!! You can't expect a one-size-fits-all filter system from ANY company for that focal length.

Also, what filters did you have in mind? Because you can totally forget about a polarizer, as opposed to their square filters, which with a teeny bit of cropping, will sure work.

BTW:

I can use ZERO filters on my 8mm.

It's the nature of the beast.
03-06-2010, 03:07 PM   #3
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makes sense ... a popular online auction site has 77mm "thin" circ. polarizers for 1/3 the cost of a hoya or tiffen "thin", might have to give one of them a try, if all else fails, a stepdown ring will mount it on my 72mm 28-200. was also looking for a 'split' nd filter or whatever they're called, where the sky is darkened but not the ground.
03-08-2010, 04:13 PM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by justDIY Quote
makes sense ... a popular online auction site has 77mm "thin" circ. polarizers for 1/3 the cost of a hoya or tiffen "thin", might have to give one of them a try, if all else fails, a stepdown ring will mount it on my 72mm 28-200. was also looking for a 'split' nd filter or whatever they're called, where the sky is darkened but not the ground.
An ND filter is really different than a polarizer, and what they call what you were explaining is a graduated filter. But if you don't position the center area correctly, where it blends from one value to the other, it's probably not going to give you exactly what you want. I speak from the film days of yore, and just started with serious DSLR, but many of the principles are the same.

I don't know what kind of shots you have in mind, or your camera, but if you're talking scenics and your camera does HDR--high dynamic range-- that may be exactly what you're looking for. And it's something I want to start experimenting with as well:

You set it for HDR, and the camera takes THREE exposures--based on highlights, mids and shadows--and processes them into one final image. From what I've seen, the results can be SPECTACULAR, and it sure as heck takes a light washed out sky and darkens/saturates it (don't know exactly how to describe it correctly) to make a beautiful image, albeit artificial looking.

Just a suggestion depending on what you're looking to achieve.

03-08-2010, 11:01 PM   #5
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QuoteQuote:
justDIY: I'd like to invest in a filter system for my various lenses, I am concerned about my Tamron 10-24. I have searched lots of old threads, and I find some pointing out even the Cokin Wide-angle p series holder shows vignetting on the 10-20 sigma at 10mm, while others claims they see no vig.
I use a polarizer on my 10-20mm Sigma, @ 10mm, and have good success. My problem is not with vignetting, but with scenes which take in too much of the Sun's glare. In those scenes, the polarizer effect can do some weird things to the sky. I try to use the polarizer when it is to my advantage.
03-10-2010, 08:09 AM   #6
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There is, by the way, an even bigger Cokin system, the Z-series, which could be the ticket if you want to use your grad ND's or whatever.
03-10-2010, 08:42 AM   #7
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If I could afford the Z series, I could afford the Hoya SMC ultrawide filter

03-10-2010, 04:48 PM   #8
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It's not just the size of the square filter--it's the way it's mounted.

P or Z, that Ultra-wide angle lens is going to catch the edges.

You can only bring the filter so close to the glass, and unless the filter is concave, you can't change the laws of physics.
03-11-2010, 09:08 AM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ira Quote
It's not just the size of the square filter--it's the way it's mounted.

P or Z, that Ultra-wide angle lens is going to catch the edges.

You can only bring the filter so close to the glass, and unless the filter is concave, you can't change the laws of physics.
I had the impression that the problem was actually the bracket just sneaking in, rather than the glass itself.
03-21-2010, 10:23 AM   #10
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inherit a fortune and get the Z-series.
03-22-2010, 08:48 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by Big Dawg Quote
inherit a fortune and get the Z-series.
I'll be winning the lotto as soon as my future self sends me some winning numbers.
03-23-2010, 08:19 PM   #12
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Ira's HDR idea is actually looking pretty good, here.
03-24-2010, 01:58 PM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by Big Dawg Quote
inherit a fortune and get the Z-series.
At 8 and 10mm, the bracket would almost have to be BEHIND the front element of the lens, so the filter would have to be concave.

Otherwise, you would have to make the bracket, and the filter that goes in it, around 150 feet wide to stay out of the image.

So you can still use your P Cokin on your 10, but you'll have to crop in post!
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