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03-21-2010, 12:08 AM - 1 Like   #1
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Infrared intervalometer K-x (soldering required)

Thought I was being brilliant, but discovered searching here that someone else did it first, so here's their link:
creating a programmable remote shutter release for Pentax Kx scanar

Didn't want to hassle with 2 remotes and a floppy plug, so I bought the larger intervalometer

Ordered from China one somewhat inexpensive Pentax intervalometer ($35) and one inexpensive Pentax (K-x) infrared remote($5).

Despite not having a non-K-x Pentax camera, I didn't want to lose the wired functionality of the remote (figure I paid for it), but I didn't want to be carrying around a floppy bundle of wires that I wasn't using either. Decided to get a 2.5mm stereo jack from radio shack and wire it inline, so that a male/male cable could be used with a wired camera at some point in the future.

By chopping off the back half of the infrared remote, it will fit in the cavity of the intervalometer. Because the switch is on the right and the intervalometer board interferes to the front, the LED has to be oriented out the left hand side. This is actually quite convenient, as it should allow the unit to be mounted to the side of the camera strap bracket with the LED pointing directly at the IR sensor. Naturally you need to make a LED sized hole in the side with your hole making tool of choice.

Having removed the battery section of the IR remote, the IR board can be wired to the intervalometer battery contacts. The contacts are just kind of sitting in indentations on the board, so they will come loose when adding the wire if you are not careful.

The RED and Blue wires from the intervalometer can be wired, one to each side of the switch junction on the reverse of the IR board. Because this side is facing the rear of the intervalometer PCB, it would be a good idea to cover the contacts with liquid electrical tape or similar when you are done.

**Note: The pictures show the blue and white wires - THIS IS WRONG - Blue and white have continuity as long as there is a battery in the unit, even when the power switch is off. The blue and red wires should be used instead.** I fixed this, but was too lazy to take more pictures.

If you want to retain wired functionality, wire the stereo jack inline. White is ground, red left channel, blue is the right channel... Of course, you're checking continuity to verify this, right?

Left the stub of the cable in the front just to keep dirt out.

The piezeo got knocked off by accident during final assembly, and I decided I was done with soldering for the day and didn't mind not having beeps, but it will fit in there too. Those foam double sided sticky squares used to hang posters work great for holding the piezo and the IR board in place.

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03-21-2010, 12:09 AM   #2
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last 2 pictures. Remember, blue and red, NOT blue and white.
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03-27-2010, 12:38 PM   #3
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wow very nice. How reliable is the IR?
03-27-2010, 01:59 PM   #4
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By programmable...do you mean you can set the length of time between each shot? I'd really love to have this so I can do some time lapse stuff.

Also...can you post links the exact stuff you had to purchase to get this to work.

04-02-2010, 10:54 AM   #5
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The IR doesn't seem to be a problem. It maxes out at 60 feet from straight on, 30 feet at 45 degrees from the sensor, and 3 feet at 90 degrees from the sensor.

There are 3 modes:

Delay: set the time delay before taking a single shot. (shutter and aperture set by camera)

Bulb: set the exposure length of a single exposure (camera set to bulb mode)

Interval: set a regular interval at which to take an exposure (shutter and aperture set by camera). Total number of exposures may be limited to any number below 400, or set to infinite.

The IR remote:
DealExtreme: $4.80 InfraRed IR Shutter Remote for Pentax Digital Cameras (CR2025 Battery Included)

The intervalometer I used:
DealExtreme: $39.90 JJC TM-C LCD Timer Remote Shutter for Canon/Pentax/Contax/Samsung DSLR/SLR Cameras

Other intervalometers that likely have the same features. I chose the one I did because it looked like I would be able to squeeze the remote into the casing without much difficulty.

DealExtreme: $19.24 YN 0.8" LCD Timer Remote Shutter for Canon 450D/Pentax K20D/Samsung GX-20 + More
DealExtreme: $34.04 YongNuo TC-C1 Precision Timer Remote Shutter Switch for Canon/Pentax/Samsung DSLR Cameras

They can also be found a couple bucks cheaper on ebay from various sellers. Of course, as I discovered when I ordered some M42-PK adapters from different sellers (trying to find the best one), sometimes different sellers send you the same product from the same address with the same handwriting on the envelope...
07-13-2010, 07:38 PM   #6
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I've ordered the above bits and will let you know how I go
07-26-2010, 06:56 AM   #7
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All done - Works like a charm. Was a bit fiddly to hook up though.
07-26-2010, 09:20 AM   #8
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Excellent!

07-28-2010, 01:21 AM   #9
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OK - It *was* working until I araldited/heatshrinkshrink wrapped the IR remote board so that none of the connections would come free. Now it doesn't work anymore - The Intervalometer is still working though.

Does anyone know of a different remote that allows easier access to the switch outputs, as above? I found soldering to the points listed a real PITA... Took about 3 hours (literally) for two wires. In the end I actually had to tap into different locations altogether as I could not get the solder to bind onto the conductive track, once the green insulation was scratched away.
08-05-2010, 03:32 AM   #10
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All working now
01-09-2011, 12:57 PM   #11
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Further questions

I just ordered the parts needed to build this cool device, and I've got a question (sorry for my english, i'm French)

kxr4trids wrote : " the LED has to be oriented out the left hand side. This is actually quite convenient, as it should allow the unit to be mounted to the side of the camera strap bracket with the LED pointing directly at the IR sensor. ".

1- I may have missed something there, but if the device is attached "upside up" on the right side of the camera, the IR LED located on its left is facing backwards, right? Where am i wrong...?
2- Any tip/picture about how (and where...) to actually attach the intervallometer to the camera?
3- Has anyone figured out a simple way to power the K-X externally for long long shooting sequences?
4- If the answer to item 3 above is no, does anyone know if the K-X can "wake up" when receiving IR signals?

Thanks a lot!
01-18-2011, 08:35 AM   #12
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A little up... anyone?
Thanks
01-18-2011, 12:29 PM   #13
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1. Adjust the strap so that the loop is just large enough to have the intervalometer pressed into it. The tension of the strap will hold it at an angle with the LED pointing at the sensor.
2. Most people probably velcro it to their tripod, but I thought that (1.) would save that step.
3. There is an AC adapter, K-AC84, but it is expensive. Any 6v DC source should work, but you will have to make your own adapter.
4. No, IR will not wake the camera
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01-18-2011, 01:11 PM   #14
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Thanks a lot ! (That wasn't hard... i feel a bit dumb )
Looking forward to get the devices.
02-02-2011, 04:49 PM   #15
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Hi kxr4trids (and all),

I just received and opened the intervallometer and IR, and got ready to proceed... But I've read (and re-read) all the thread but I'm getting confused... Indeed
(1) I've never looked closely at (and never married) electronic devices ;
(2) the IR and the blue/red/white cables on the intervallometer are a bit different from that shown on kxr4trids's pix ;
(3) I'm not sure I am following the issues about red/white/blue cables throughout the discussion ;
(4) I've soldered cables before but never small things like these ==> a couple mistakes will ruin the parts ;
(5) I am not sure about a few things (marked by a "?" on the attached pictures...).

So here we go. I shot the parts and added a few virtual cables (as I understood from kxr4trids's text) on the pix with a few question marks... Hope they are self-explanatory and help you guys answer me.

- The first picture shown below avoids the minijack connection (something I am considering to do) and asks 3 questions (provided that the other connections are OK). (1) where should I attach the blue and red cables on the IR? I don't know where are the two connectors of this weird switch (2) Can I attach the black cable where indicated (and remove the little spring) ?



- The second picture below includes the minijack and asks the following (thanks for confirming if you know the answer): (1) Is my GROUND/LEFT/RIGHT connection pattern OK? (inferred it from the text, although not actually sure)



Thanks for your help guys!

PS: sorry again for my english and lack of soldering/dissection/soldering/electronics/understanding skills.
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