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01-12-2015, 10:25 AM   #61
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QuoteOriginally posted by severalsnakes Quote
these
great photos!

01-12-2015, 11:09 AM - 3 Likes   #62
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I've been doing a variation of this for landscapes that can yield a nice effect. I wanted a wide shot, but I also wanted telephoto compression of the scene.
So I use something like the 60-250 or my Sears 135/2.8 and shoot a telephoto pano. My method requires stopping down for a deep DOF instead of doing the opposite as described here. I used to be a watercolorist and I painted landscapes that kind of had this look (wide, but with the background mountains looking close). I missed the look and tried to figure out how to replicate it with a camera.
Here's one I did last winter.
5x vertical shots with a Sears 135/2.8


So now I'll have to try some wide open. It's a nice looking effect!
01-12-2015, 11:29 AM - 1 Like   #63
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QuoteOriginally posted by todd Quote
great photos!
Thank you! One more I skipped over. The "look" isn't as strong here...

K-30, Rokinon 85/1.4

01-12-2015, 12:07 PM   #64
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QuoteOriginally posted by severalsnakes Quote
The "look"
Yeah, you are showing in all of these a keen eye to pull this look off with subject choice and composition (and the right light of course). I haven't made any in a while now (since 2013) and had basically forgotten about it. Thanks for rekindling my interest!

QuoteOriginally posted by mattb123 Quote
135/2.8
Great shot! I've done some pano's with my 135 too but usually longer ones, and I did notice what you are talking about without having the vocabulary for it. Very cool.

01-13-2015, 05:56 PM   #65
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QuoteOriginally posted by mattb123 Quote
I've been doing a variation of this for landscapes that can yield a nice effect. I wanted a wide shot, but I also wanted telephoto compression of the scene.
So I use something like the 60-250 or my Sears 135/2.8 and shoot a telephoto pano. My method requires stopping down for a deep DOF instead of doing the opposite as described here. I used to be a watercolorist and I painted landscapes that kind of had this look (wide, but with the background mountains looking close). I missed the look and tried to figure out how to replicate it with a camera.
Here's one I did last winter.
5x vertical shots with a Sears 135/2.8


So now I'll have to try some wide open. It's a nice looking effect!
Wonderful shot. More a stitched Pano than Brenizier though (which is all about shallow DOF). There is a thread here somewhere for them.

QuoteOriginally posted by severalsnakes Quote
Thank you! One more I skipped over. The "look" isn't as strong here...

K-30, Rokinon 85/1.4

I love the subjects you have used. Making me think of some things around here.... Hmmm?
01-27-2015, 07:30 AM   #66
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QuoteOriginally posted by severalsnakes Quote
These were part of my "Single in October" challenge.
Nice feel to these images!

What f-stop were you using for the individual images?

P.S.: Too bad your copy isn't trouble free. I also have the Rokinon 85/1.4 and I couldn't be happier with my copy.
01-27-2015, 11:37 AM   #67
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QuoteOriginally posted by Class A Quote
Nice feel to these images!

What f-stop were you using for the individual images?

P.S.: Too bad your copy isn't trouble free. I also have the Rokinon 85/1.4 and I couldn't be happier with my copy.
F/1.4 was almost impossible for focusing, so these were likely at f/2. (I used the aperture ring manually instead of the A-setting because it seemed to reduce the issues with the aperture lever.)

It's a great lens! The colors are phenomenal, and what you can do with f/1.4!! I do wish the MFD was closer that 1 meter. That's my only "real" gripe. The aperture lever can be unstuck if it gets fussy, but there's nothing I can do to make the lens focus closer. ;-)

01-27-2015, 01:35 PM   #68
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QuoteOriginally posted by severalsnakes Quote
F/1.4 was almost impossible for focusing, so these were likely at f/2. (I used the aperture ring manually instead of the A-setting because it seemed to reduce the issues with the aperture lever.)

It's a great lens! The colors are phenomenal, and what you can do with f/1.4!! I do wish the MFD was closer that 1 meter. That's my only "real" gripe. The aperture lever can be unstuck if it gets fussy, but there's nothing I can do to make the lens focus closer. ;-)
Thanks!

If your camera supports it, try to use LiveView for focusing. By magnifying the image (up to 10x when using the "Info" button on a K-5), you can achieve very precise focus, even at f/1.4.

You can make the lens focus closer by using a thin extension ring. You'll lose infinity focus while using the ring and the IQ may "change" a bit, but it is worth trying. IIRC, I tried that once and the IQ held up. Let me know if I should try again.
01-27-2015, 02:02 PM   #69
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QuoteOriginally posted by Class A Quote
Thanks!

If your camera supports it, try to use LiveView for focusing. By magnifying the image (up to 10x when using the "Info" button on a K-5), you can achieve very precise focus, even at f/1.4.

You can make the lens focus closer by using a thin extension ring. You'll lose infinity focus while using the ring and the IQ may "change" a bit, but it is worth trying. IIRC, I tried that once and the IQ held up. Let me know if I should try again.
Oh, live view was imperative for every shot! I will look into how it functions with an extension ring and let you know...
01-27-2015, 03:19 PM   #70
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Remember focusing for a Brenizer is not as critical as it is for a single shot as once the photos are combined any minor focusing errors won't be seen in such a large image.

I focus at the centre of what I want to be in focus, taking several shots and checking, then all the other shots are taken without checking again, it's not necessary.
01-27-2015, 05:01 PM   #71
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jonathan Mac Quote
Remember focusing for a Brenizer is not as critical as it is for a single shot as once the photos are combined any minor focusing errors won't be seen in such a large image.

I focus at the centre of what I want to be in focus, taking several shots and checking, then all the other shots are taken without checking again, it's not necessary.
True facts. In my greenhouse shot, I got the grasses around the cinder blocks in focus, then just fired away the twenty-some shots for the whole scene, without checking the focus again.

The point of the Brenizer, as I understand it, would be lost if you were landing focus on every damn thing in the area. That's what wide angles and tight apertures are for. (Did someone say fish eye?? )
02-22-2015, 02:32 PM   #72
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Here are a couple of Brenizer method shots I took this morning, with the M 85mm f/2, wide open. Cross-posted to the M lens thread.


IMGP1651_stitch 1
by Jonathan_in_Madrid, on Flickr


IMGP1681_stitch
by Jonathan_in_Madrid, on Flickr
03-08-2015, 12:45 PM - 1 Like   #73
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I took these today and for once didn't use the M 85mm f/2. Instead I used the SMC Takumar 105mm f/2.8. It's more difficult due to the narrower field of view, and the DoF is deeper due to the slower lens and requiring more shots to get the same field of view, but this lens works reasonably well for this purpose.


IMGP2049_stitch B
by Jonathan_in_Madrid, on Flickr


IMGP2259_stitch
by Jonathan_in_Madrid, on Flickr
03-08-2015, 01:12 PM   #74
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This thread is reminding me of why I lusted after my Sammy 85 to begin with.

I'll have to try some of these once weather permits.
07-15-2015, 02:30 AM   #75
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Here's a Brenizer method stitched panorama I took yesterday of a stream close to where my family in law lives. I used (as usual for this type of shot) the M 85mm f/2, wide open. You'll see the shallow DoF if you open it full screen.

Cross-posted to the K3 thread.


Brenizer 14th July 2015
by Jonathan MacDonald, on Flickr
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