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03-15-2017, 06:42 AM   #91
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I was surprised to learn (thanks to Jonathan) that this technique has a name- but even more surprised to learn it was named after a modern wedding photographer! A few of the first articles I looked up credit him with inventing the technique- fortunately on his own blog he makes no attempt to claim that much, but he definitely deserves credit for popularizing it and it's a fun name (though he says he prefers "bokehrama"). I gave this a try back in what must have been 2006 or 2007, with an Olympus E-330 and a sigma 30mm f1.4, after reading about it on a 4/3 forum. Seemed nifty but too clunky in practice to be practical for me at the time. Spending a long time in which an M 50mm f1.7 was literally my only lens with satisfying optical quality changed my mind, since stitching allowed me to "zoom out" without changing lenses. It's a bit shorter than the lenses a lot of the shots in this thread have been using, but it's done a pretty good job so far.


I mostly use it for trees, really. Trees can make challenging subjects to really capture adequately, especially tall trees in a densely forested setting. I don't think the visual impacts entirely translate at small viewing sizes on screen but in large prints the brenizer technique definitely enhances portrayal of trees.


Has anyone used this "brenizer method calculator" that gives you an equivalent focal length and aperture? Apparently my second image above has an equivalent focal length and aperture of 21mm f0.7. http://brettmaxwellphoto.com/Brenizer-Method-Calculation/
Jonathan, I love that one of the olive grove from a couple years ago.


Last edited by er1kksen; 03-15-2017 at 07:02 AM. Reason: added calculator link
03-19-2017, 07:04 PM - 2 Likes   #92
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k-5 IIs, Samyang 85mm f1.4


24 exposures, 3 rows


My first successful attempt at this. Oh, it's spring in Arizona!


03-22-2017, 04:52 AM - 1 Like   #93
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I did this one using the M 50mm f/1.4, the first time I've used that lens for a Brenizer. It worked out quite well, though Microsoft ICE had some trouble stitching it and the DoF is not as shallow as the ones I do with the 85mm f/2, overall I'm happy with it.

This is the Sanabria lake in the north of Spain.


Lago de Sanabria Brenizer 1b
by Jonathan MacDonald, on Flickr

Last edited by Jonathan Mac; 06-26-2017 at 03:25 AM.
06-26-2017, 03:27 AM   #94
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I just fixed the link in the post above, not sure what happened there.

Here's a Brenizer from yesterday in the local park. I used the Fujifilm X-M1 and the M42-mount Yashinon DS-M 50mm f/1.4, neither of which I've previously used for Brenizers.


Aluche Brenizer June 2017 1a
by Jonathan MacDonald, on Flickr

12-14-2017, 04:49 PM   #95
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My first test shot.
First Brenizer

I ran into buffering issues, this was around 50 shots taken, and somewhere mid to 3/4 way through taking the shot i was getting buffering issues. The RAW file was huge, even the exported Jpg was 99mb (this version here is a compressed 15mb or less version). What are people here doing about buffering issues? Are we shooting these shots as jpgs with corrections off? Or still RAW but shooting at a slightly slower pace?

Cheers,

Bruce
12-15-2017, 01:11 AM   #96
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QuoteOriginally posted by BruceBanner Quote
My first test shot.
First Brenizer

I ran into buffering issues, this was around 50 shots taken, and somewhere mid to 3/4 way through taking the shot i was getting buffering issues. The RAW file was huge, even the exported Jpg was 99mb (this version here is a compressed 15mb or less version). What are people here doing about buffering issues? Are we shooting these shots as jpgs with corrections off? Or still RAW but shooting at a slightly slower pace?

Cheers,

Bruce
I stopped shooting RAW for Brenizers a while back, mostly because I know there's no way I'm going to individually PP so many images anyway, but it also means I completely avoid buffering problems. I take some test shots to get the best exposure and white balance I can and then shoot jpeg only, usually saving smaller than the K3's 24MP too as there's just no need for it for this type of image.
12-15-2017, 03:25 PM   #97
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jonathan Mac Quote
I stopped shooting RAW for Brenizers a while back, mostly because I know there's no way I'm going to individually PP so many images anyway, but it also means I completely avoid buffering problems. I take some test shots to get the best exposure and white balance I can and then shoot jpeg only, usually saving smaller than the K3's 24MP too as there's just no need for it for this type of image.
I really like the style of this kinda technique, but I definitely need to find a practical way to manage the process, testing with shooting smaller jpgs as you say etc.
04-23-2018, 01:23 PM - 2 Likes   #98
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One from today with M200/4. I think this is the best I have managed to build so far. 15 shots in total.



04-24-2018, 11:35 PM - 1 Like   #99
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Alas, this didn't turn out too well as I had a gap quite close to the subject on the right hand side so I had to crop most of the out-of-focus area away, leaving an image that barely looks like a Brenizer

Taken with the M 120mm f/2.8 wide open, cross-posted to the M thread.


Atocha Brenizer 1a
by Jonathan MacDonald, on Flickr
04-24-2018, 11:58 PM   #100
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jonathan Mac Quote
Alas, this didn't turn out too well as I had a gap quite close to the subject on the right hand side so I had to crop most of the out-of-focus area away, leaving an image that barely looks like a Brenizer

Taken with the M 120mm f/2.8 wide open, cross-posted to the M thread.


Atocha Brenizer 1a
by Jonathan MacDonald, on Flickr
It's not bad at all. I've been trying to find my favourite brenizer pic (not mine), but somehow I've lost the link to it. It was 120 images stiched, and the person standing was made up of quite a lot as well (which I gather is not often the approach, rather a single frame for the subject rather than multiple). It was epic in it's Brenizer feel. I will try to find it in due course.
04-28-2018, 02:44 PM   #101
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Not sure if this counts....done with a Blackberry
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BlackBerry Q10  Photo 
04-28-2018, 07:34 PM - 1 Like   #102
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jonathan Mac Quote
Alas, this didn't turn out too well as I had a gap quite close to the subject on the right hand side so I had to crop most of the out-of-focus area away, leaving an image that barely looks like a Brenizer

Taken with the M 120mm f/2.8 wide open, cross-posted to the M thread.


Atocha Brenizer 1a
by Jonathan MacDonald, on Flickr
QuoteOriginally posted by CharLac Quote
Not sure if this counts....done with a Blackberry
Interesting to see. I think the reason this doesn't work well is not so much Blackberry but rather it's not got a strong enough DoF/Wide Open etc. For this effect to really work well it needs a shallow DoF.
05-03-2018, 09:21 AM   #103
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QuoteOriginally posted by BruceBanner Quote
Interesting to see. I think the reason this doesn't work well is not so much Blackberry but rather it's not got a strong enough DoF/Wide Open etc. For this effect to really work well it needs a shallow DoF.
I am going to have to try this now that I understand it better....any good free stitching software out there you can recommend?
05-03-2018, 01:15 PM   #104
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QuoteOriginally posted by CharLac Quote
I am going to have to try this now that I understand it better....any good free stitching software out there you can recommend?
From what I gather about the Brenizer method (and I'm no pro at it at all!) is that you want a combination of a slightly long focal length and very wide aperture to pull off the best shot, sometimes over 100 shots! 50mm/1.8 etc is ok, but better results can be had from 85/1.4 lenses etc. The general idea is to shoot jpg, because if you shoot raw you will hit buffer issues too early on (17 raw vs 70 odd jpg). Snap the subject firstly, most advice is to try and get the subject in one shot with enough space around them so that you collect a good 20-30% overlap on the subsequent panorama shots around them, but I have seen epic brenizer method shots that are 120+ shots and the subject them selves compromised of a few snaps (I guess it all depends how still your subject can be).
Now that I have a 135/2.5 lens I aim to try and give this method a good going over soon =)
05-03-2018, 02:51 PM   #105
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QuoteOriginally posted by BruceBanner Quote
From what I gather about the Brenizer method (and I'm no pro at it at all!) is that you want a combination of a slightly long focal length and very wide aperture to pull off the best shot, sometimes over 100 shots! 50mm/1.8 etc is ok, but better results can be had from 85/1.4 lenses etc. The general idea is to shoot jpg, because if you shoot raw you will hit buffer issues too early on (17 raw vs 70 odd jpg). Snap the subject firstly, most advice is to try and get the subject in one shot with enough space around them so that you collect a good 20-30% overlap on the subsequent panorama shots around them, but I have seen epic brenizer method shots that are 120+ shots and the subject them selves compromised of a few snaps (I guess it all depends how still your subject can be).
Now that I have a 135/2.5 lens I aim to try and give this method a good going over soon =)
Good luck! I hope to see something from you soon!
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