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05-03-2018, 03:10 PM   #106
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QuoteOriginally posted by CharLac Quote
Good luck! I hope to see something from you soon!
Haha thanks.

I saw this article this morning, I've never tried the left to right panning method instead panicking and wishing to get the centre subject/people done first, and then a circular motion etc, but I have to agree with him, I get an incomplete panorama doing this so will try the left to right panning method. I guess you just have to communicate a little more with the model, when you approach them with the left to right method you inform them so they can stay as still as possible, and also just try to be fairly quick with it all.

05-04-2018, 12:42 AM - 2 Likes   #107
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QuoteOriginally posted by CharLac Quote
I am going to have to try this now that I understand it better....any good free stitching software out there you can recommend?
I use Microsoft ICE an find it works very well. Very occasionally it puts something together wrongly, but this rare.

I usually use an M 85mm f/2, wide open on my K-3 for Brenizers. I've tried as short a focal length as 50mm and also the DA 70mm f/2.4, Tak 105mm f/2.8 and recently the M 120mm f/2.8 but I always come back to the 85. Too short a focal length produces barrel-like distortion and too long means that the final image is made up of too many individual shots, which I find results in it being too difficult to get the whole scene, with problems such as people walking through it or just losing place of where I am with the panorama.
05-04-2018, 12:59 AM - 1 Like   #108
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jonathan Mac Quote
I use Microsoft ICE an find it works very well. Very occasionally it puts something together wrongly, but this rare.

I usually use an M 85mm f/2, wide open on my K-3 for Brenizers. I've tried as short a focal length as 50mm and also the DA 70mm f/2.4, Tak 105mm f/2.8 and recently the M 120mm f/2.8 but I always come back to the 85. Too short a focal length produces barrel-like distortion and too long means that the final image is made up of too many individual shots, which I find results in it being too difficult to get the whole scene, with problems such as people walking through it or just losing place of where I am with the panorama.
Was gonna say similar stuff but Jonathan here covered it.
05-04-2018, 04:59 AM   #109
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jonathan Mac Quote
Too short a focal length produces barrel-like distortion
That's a function of the stitching software, not the focal length per se. The better stitching programs allow you to choose the type of projection (e.g. spherical vs. rectilinear) and also adjust the perspective, giving you a lot of control over the final result.

05-04-2018, 05:09 AM   #110
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QuoteOriginally posted by baro-nite Quote
That's a function of the stitching software, not the focal length per se. The better stitching programs allow you to choose the type of projection (e.g. spherical vs. rectilinear) and also adjust the perspective, giving you a lot of control over the final result.
Does the MS product have this functionality?
05-04-2018, 06:55 AM   #111
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QuoteOriginally posted by CharLac Quote
Does the MS product have this functionality?
I don't know, as that is Windows only and I am on Mac OS. But their product page says:

Choice of planar, cylindrical, stereographic, orthographic, Mercator, or spherical projection.
Orientation tool for adjusting panorama rotation.

So, yes.
05-04-2018, 07:01 AM   #112
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QuoteOriginally posted by CharLac Quote
Does the MS product have this functionality?
Yes.

Personally I have found focal lenths below 50mm harder to stitch. If the shots itself have distortion, it's difficult to stitch them without artifacts.

05-04-2018, 07:21 AM   #113
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QuoteOriginally posted by iheiramo Quote
Yes.

Personally I have found focal lenths below 50mm harder to stitch. If the shots itself have distortion, it's difficult to stitch them without artifacts.
I was planning on trying this with a M50mm f/1.4....or maybe even a M100mm f/4 Macro
05-04-2018, 07:42 AM   #114
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QuoteOriginally posted by CharLac Quote
I was planning on trying this with a M50mm f/1.4....or maybe even a M100mm f/4 Macro
Both should work.
05-04-2018, 10:35 PM - 1 Like   #115
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QuoteOriginally posted by baro-nite Quote
That's a function of the stitching software, not the focal length per se. The better stitching programs allow you to choose the type of projection (e.g. spherical vs. rectilinear) and also adjust the perspective, giving you a lot of control over the final result.
QuoteOriginally posted by CharLac Quote
Does the MS product have this functionality?
Yes, MS ICE has this. The amount of distortion that it can handle is limited though, so in some cases an extra step will be needed to import the stitched image into another program that allows a greater degree of distortion correction. This is very rarely needed with an 85mm lens.
05-05-2018, 07:38 PM   #116
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A test shot from Friday;


Click the link for more info in the description.

I basically followed this advice here; https://digital-photography-school.com/5-steps-to-rock-the-brenizer-method/

I followed the advice of moving left to right (like a book), this didn't turn out as well as I would have hoped. You see... before starting the shot I got the focus right for the tripod but nearer the top end, in this shot however the focus is more towards the lower portion. Had this been a person I would have their face out of focus and limbs in focus...

I think you definitely need to take the shot of your subject first, then start panning, I just haven't worked out a good pattern yet from leaving the centre subjects. Getting the focus right for the subject first, but then not taking the shot and leaving to find a corner somewhere and start panning doesn't guarantee that when you do arrive at the subjects that you're focus is in the right spot etc.

Last edited by BruceBanner; 05-05-2018 at 07:43 PM.
05-05-2018, 10:41 PM   #117
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I always scan from side to side, it's the only way I can get a reasonably good rate of over-lapping shots without overlapping so much that I need 400 shots to get the whole image. I suppose top to bottom to top would work too but other than that I think you'd have a huge risk of missing portions of the image.

To keep focus on the subject, first make sure that you have achieved it in the first place, checking the focus shots at 100% before deleting them and starting the panorama. Second, you need to make sure that you don't move. I find that squatting or sitting on something (bench etc) if available can help with that. Other than that, just pay attention to the way you turn your torso and hold your camera.
05-05-2018, 11:02 PM   #118
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jonathan Mac Quote
I always scan from side to side, it's the only way I can get a reasonably good rate of over-lapping shots without overlapping so much that I need 400 shots to get the whole image. I suppose top to bottom to top would work too but other than that I think you'd have a huge risk of missing portions of the image.

To keep focus on the subject, first make sure that you have achieved it in the first place, checking the focus shots at 100% before deleting them and starting the panorama. Second, you need to make sure that you don't move. I find that squatting or sitting on something (bench etc) if available can help with that. Other than that, just pay attention to the way you turn your torso and hold your camera.
I'm just not convinced that works, with really narrow DoF if you get the focus right at the start, then move away to start the panning, by the time you come back around to the subject there's a lot of luck and chance that yer in the same position/framing that you were at the start when you verified focus, a small deviation in framing and positioning can mean the focus is soft and off. I really think the beginning of the panorama needs to have a single shot in focus on the subjects first and then move off them to capture the rest. It's the moving off them and capturing the rest that I think is problematic.
05-06-2018, 02:05 PM   #119
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K-1+Takumar 135/2.5 (Bayonet)
05-07-2018, 12:56 AM   #120
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QuoteOriginally posted by BruceBanner Quote
I'm just not convinced that works, with really narrow DoF if you get the focus right at the start, then move away to start the panning, by the time you come back around to the subject there's a lot of luck and chance that yer in the same position/framing that you were at the start when you verified focus, a small deviation in framing and positioning can mean the focus is soft and off. I really think the beginning of the panorama needs to have a single shot in focus on the subjects first and then move off them to capture the rest. It's the moving off them and capturing the rest that I think is problematic.
All the Brenizer's I've ever done have used the side-to-side method. It's possible that focus is slightly off due to this, but I take as much care as possible to only turn, not to move forward or backwards. Given that I'll usually shoot these in low-res jpegs, any loss of critical focus is so small as to be un-noticeable. The same (luckily) is true of the blue-fringing which is common with the M 85mm f/2 - in the final image it's just not visible at all.

If you're really concerned with maintaining critical focus then maybe a hybrid method could be used? I've never done it, but you could in principle get the centre shots of the subject first, then sweep side-to-side and replace the side-to-side images of the subject with the initial ones if focus is slightly off. You'd need to take care not to lose any sections around the subject but I think that could possibly give the best results.
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