[Jonathan Mac]

I use the Pentax-provided software (Silkypix) then stitch with Microsoft ICE.

[iheiramo]

I use the Pentax-provided software (Silkypix) then stitch with Microsoft ICE.

Check out Capture 1. You're worth it.

It's an upgrade to all your lenses

[swanlefitte]

This one is growing on me. It was taken at 5.6 at 77mm (my favorite lens). I thought it was the kit 18-50 but was the 55-300plm and perhaps the 1.4x tc? (of course 55 x 1.4=77) I was switching with the tc coming or going. I was there for the experience of experiencing not for photography.

I think it was 5 shots.

[BruceBanner]

An old shot I took and didn't really do anything with. I found it today when backing up older catalogs. From memory about 6-8 shots across, doesn't really push the brenizer vibe that much but it's still has a kinda nice med format feel.

[iheiramo]

I haven't done these in a while, but made few today.

M100/4 & K1ii:

21 shots


20 shots


28 shots

[Jonathan Mac]

I haven't done these in a while, but made few today.

M100/4 & K1ii:

21 shots


20 shots


28 shots

I think you'll find the 100/2.8 or 85/2 more suitable for Brenizers, they'll give a more pronounced effect.

[iheiramo]

I think you'll find the 100/2.8 or 85/2 more suitable for Brenizers, they'll give a more pronounced effect.

Definitely. I only used M100/4, because I'm using it in single in challenge this month. Faster lens is better for effect.

[Aaron28]

3 frame.....fa50/f1.4 @ f1.8....K-3ii.....

[swanlefitte]

3 frame.....fa50/f1.4 @ f1.8....K-3ii.....

That has a cinematic quality. Love how it opens the space while keeping focus on the subject.

[Aaron28]

That has a cinematic quality. Love how it opens the space while keeping focus on the subject.

thanks! wider definitely made it much better as she barely fit into frame.....I like how an additional frame or 2 can really build a better image....so glad I am learning this cool process!

[BruceBanner]

thanks! wider definitely made it much better as she barely fit into frame.....I like how an additional frame or 2 can really build a better image....so glad I am learning this cool process!

If you want a super hint (for OVF for mini brenizers like this do the following);

1) Set the Shooting Mode to Continuous Low
2) Use the Spot Focus AF method (most accurate)
3) Have Focus Priority enabled
4) Use AF.S and definitely not AF.C for this
5) For the K-1, look in the Custom menu for the item 'Lock AE-L to AF", turn it on (2). Other models will have this feature too, just look for it.

How to do it

Take the first shot with the shutter fully pressed down on the subject you want focused on, then without taking the finger off the shutter button pan to the left of the subject and wait for the second shot to ring out, once that shot is taken then pan over to the other side of the subject and wait for that shot to fire.

You now have 3 images, first frame had the subject in the centre of the image where AF is most accurate and IQ sharpest, because you have Exposure locked to shutter button you took the other shots at the same exposure by not taking your finger off the shutter button and now have additional frame. Stitch the images together.

You can do more than this of course, but its handy way I find for OVF 'Brenizers'. You could opt for portrait orientation of holding the camera and instead of 3 frames do 5 etc.

If shooting RAW you do not need to worry about WB, but if shooting Jpg then you will want to add one more step which is to choose a WB that looks right for the shots and will be consistent across the frames.

[Aaron28]

You could opt for portrait orientation

thanks eddy! af-l & ae-l.....will look up the af-l as I tend to get focus and turn the af switch to m (awkward handheld)....use ae-l often on the few occasions I am not manual.....i'm very forgetful about awb but so far it hasn't caused much damage

the 3 were in portrait

[BruceBanner]

thanks eddy! af-l & ae-l.....will look up the af-l as I tend to get focus and turn the af switch to m (awkward handheld)....use ae-l often on the few occasions I am not manual.....i'm very forgetful about awb but so far it hasn't caused much damage

the 3 were in portrait

Yeh, it can be handy, and just take a lot of the headache out of the process. Instead of thinking you need to hit the AE-L button itself, with this option ticked on you don't need to, as long as you don't refocus again/take finger off the shutter button. I just find Continuous Burst Low to be a perfect speed to take the shot, move to where you want to take the next shot, wait a small second, the second shot rings out, and then you move/pan to the next place and repeat. You can keep going as long as you like

Where people are most likely to stuff up in Brenizers is exposure changing between frames or WB varying. I tend to shoot events in Av mode a lot of the time for candid stuff, and thus using AE-L to lock with AF is really useful, it's like temporarily making the camera 'Manual' for the sequence of shots. It's like the best of both worlds.

[swanlefitte]

Interesting way. Not having to press anything seems the best part. Best way to keep the camera as uniform as possible while shifting frame.

[BruceBanner]

Interesting way. Not having to press anything seems the best part. Best way to keep the camera as uniform as possible while shifting frame.

Yeh, when doing events I use up a lot of my User Modes for specific tasks. At one point I had a 'Brenizer' Mode, or something at least for small brenz but it's taking up a valuable slot so I thought how might I be able to condense things so that I could shoot normally and also pull off a bren without having to over think the process. Eventually I figured out these small changes meant I could just shoot with one of my normal portrait modes already and also pull off a bren whenever I wanted, freed up a slot for other tasks.